Blew 2uzfe Engine in water crossing... rebuild advise please?

[swiftneed]

replace parts

That's exactly what id do. No need in an entire new engine....

My only contention would be upgrading to 1uz rods since I was buying new ones anyway.

I agree , definitely go with repairing what you can that is visible I would.Sucks that happened with your engine.Showed me to go get Snorkel. good luck. It will work.

 

[duffdog]

That's exactly what id do. No need in an entire new engine....

My only contention would be upgrading to 1uz rods since I was buying new ones anyway.

Do you have to get new 1uz rods? I am not familiar with using used rods from another engine, is there anything to look out for? I was just going to buy h-beam rods and ARP bolts since they are so cheap.

 

[tc05runner]

I did the same thing. Locked mine up in water. I was pissed. All I did was get a motor out of a donor and dropped it in there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mizzouxc]

A little bit more information for you guys. I have an aftermarket front bumper and the plastic fender thing that used to connect to the factory bumper has been cut so that the tire doesn't hit it.

Today, I got off of work and removed my skidplates, drained the oil, removed the lower oil pan and removed the front diff.

I found a sheared off bolt head and part of a rod in the lower oil pan...:redbrick:

My question for anyone who works on the 2uz-- Is it possible to remove the pistons from the bottom of the engine?

Toyota owners be like 1' water only.

 

[JimInTN]

Do you have to get new 1uz rods? I am not familiar with using used rods from another engine, is there anything to look out for? I was just going to buy h-beam rods and ARP bolts since they are so cheap.

I don't know why you couldn't use used rods so long as they were within spec. I don't know where you would find them, though. It may be over kill anyway on a motor you never plan to add forced induction on.

Lexus 1UZFE, 2UZFE and 3UZFE rod

 

[07V8]

Any interest in selling that piston for a paper weight?

 

[tc05runner]

Toyota owners be like 1' water only.

That's the way I thought. Then I realized the water was passed my tire. Lol about 3&1/3 feet deep haha

 

[duffdog]

I don't know why you couldn't use used rods so long as they were within spec. I don't know where you would find them, though. It may be over kill anyway on a motor you never plan to add forced induction on.

Lexus 1UZFE, 2UZFE and 3UZFE rod

Well... if I check craigslist, I can get an entire running ls400 car for $300...LOL! I suppose I could just take the engine out and ditch the rest of the car.

 

[duffdog]

Any interest in selling that piston for a paper weight?

sure, make me an offer lol!

 

[Bob22222]

Why not pull the rods from the ls300 and bring the rest to a scrap yard. Here in Colorado, at least, a metal scrap yard will take a whole car by the pound. You have to drain the fuel tank though some yards other fluids as well. Usually works out to a few hundred bucks per average car depending on spot metal prices. Might be different in Cali though.

 

[duffdog]

Info from the machine shop:

It appears I broke 2 guides and bent 2 valves on the broken cylinder. That all. so I am having the heads redone and decked and will get new rods and bearings in prep for a day when I might do forced induction. Awesome!

Soon the truck will be back on the road!

BTW-- anyone know anything about moly rings vs steel rings? pros/cons etc.

 

[toyo]

I hope they were not quoting you 38 hours for an engine swap. I attached the labor guide for you just in case someone tries to shaft ya.

If you use Moly coated rings you have to make sure the cylinder walls are honed by a shop that knows what they are doing. I believe you said they were good. Have you asked them what they think?

How long do you think it's gonna be until she's fired up? Good luck and thanks for keeping us posted!

 

[duffdog]

I hope they were not quoting you 38 hours for an engine swap. I attached the labor guide for you just in case someone tries to shaft ya.

If you use Moly coated rings you have to make sure the cylinder walls are honed by a shop that knows what they are doing. I believe you said they were good. Have you asked them what they think?

How long do you think it's gonna be until she's fired up? Good luck and thanks for keeping us posted!

They WERE quoting me 38 hours for an engine swap...

But more news in the saga. I have put the entire engine back together with a new piston/rod and redone heads and tried to start it. Turns over but won't fire. It seems like its not getting any spark, but since there is no coil... what do I look for to see if ignition is happening? I know that if you unplug a single coil it won't start, but how do you check if the coils are sparking?

 

[duffdog]

Finally! Got the engine to fire and it sounds ok, not perfect, but ok. Plugged in my techstream and found that cyl 8 is misfiring. That just happens to be the cylinder that had the broken rod in it... Well, not only that cylinder, but 4 and 1 as well.

At least it runs now!!

 

[Ralph Blake]

Looks like you are heading in the right direction, maybe it's time to get some professional help.

 

[worktruck]

Old thread but unfortunately applies to me.

05 4runner V8 2uzfe 103,xxx mi, 2.5/2 32.5s on 17s

At Nicolai Mtn in NW OR I sucked in some water and stalled out on the way out of a puddle with ruts that went from mild to uh-oh about 20 yards from the end. Yes, front fender liner is trimmed, and yes, I gassed it some to maintain momentum. Experienced wheeler making a rookie mistake. Clearly better to have stalled and walked a mile to get buddy's stock 02 Tundra and tow rope etc

Intake is stock. Pulling plugs before restart wasn't an option. Restarted and idled rough for a while but eventually ran perfect except for new RPM-connected ticking noise. (Not the cracked header problem, I have that too)

I drove home 80 min from the mountain and have driven a few hours since for work. Had new DTCs for Cyl 1 and 8 misfires plus the same old O2 sensor DTCs I've been ignoring for about 15k mi. Cleared them all and misfires have not returned. MPG is fine (actually a bit less crappy than before because I've been babying it 98% of the time). Transmission shifts perfectly. Power/accel is normal and no smoke in exhaust. Oil (dipstick) looks new. Oil temp and level perfect. Haven't drained oil to check for metal yet. I will tomorrow after work.

Rods and/or valves seem likely. Ticking sounds lower than heads to me but I'm trying to be optimistic.

Any thoughts/recommendations on other things to check, in order of least to most difficult disassembly-wise?

Any thoughts on additional damage I'm causing by driving it this way? Am I doing damage that will significantly increase rebuild cost (if I choose not to replace) or am I just risking a stranding?

I may use this as an excuse to buy a scope to try to get into oil drain hole.

I know I'm getting close to a timing belt and related replacements, plus a full tear down could motivate headers, but I've also been considering a new ride for a long time before this happened, so part of my question is, what's worse, the loss of my trade in/resale value, or sinking x,000 into repairs/replacements.

Thanks.

 

[bpchura]

What makes you believe you have any actual damage? Is the ticking noise persistent? If you had damage from hydro lock, I imagine you would have major issues, be throwing all sorts of codes (if you could even run at all). It seems like the ticking may be irrelevant to getting stuck in the water, hydro locking anyways.

 

[Keros]

Old thread but unfortunately applies to me.

05 4runner V8 2uzfe 103,xxx mi, 2.5/2 32.5s on 17s

At Nicolai Mtn in NW OR I sucked in some water and stalled out on the way out of a puddle with ruts that went from mild to uh-oh about 20 yards from the end. Yes, front fender liner is trimmed, and yes, I gassed it some to maintain momentum. Experienced wheeler making a rookie mistake. Clearly better to have stalled and walked a mile to get buddy's stock 02 Tundra and tow rope etc

Intake is stock. Pulling plugs before restart wasn't an option. Restarted and idled rough for a while but eventually ran perfect except for new RPM-connected ticking noise. (Not the cracked header problem, I have that too)

I drove home 80 min from the mountain and have driven a few hours since for work. Had new DTCs for Cyl 1 and 8 misfires plus the same old O2 sensor DTCs I've been ignoring for about 15k mi. Cleared them all and misfires have not returned. MPG is fine (actually a bit less crappy than before because I've been babying it 98% of the time). Transmission shifts perfectly. Power/accel is normal and no smoke in exhaust. Oil (dipstick) looks new. Oil temp and level perfect. Haven't drained oil to check for metal yet. I will tomorrow after work.

Rods and/or valves seem likely. Ticking sounds lower than heads to me but I'm trying to be optimistic.

Any thoughts/recommendations on other things to check, in order of least to most difficult disassembly-wise?

Any thoughts on additional damage I'm causing by driving it this way? Am I doing damage that will significantly increase rebuild cost (if I choose not to replace) or am I just risking a stranding?

I may use this as an excuse to buy a scope to try to get into oil drain hole.

I know I'm getting close to a timing belt and related replacements, plus a full tear down could motivate headers, but I've also been considering a new ride for a long time before this happened, so part of my question is, what's worse, the loss of my trade in/resale value, or sinking x,000 into repairs/replacements.

Thanks.

Get an oil analysis done. The shop that does my work recommends https://www.blackstone-labs.com/, I think. They did not know about RAMATEK in Calgary though.

If your metal content is abnormal, it'll be sure there's a problem. If the tests come back normal, it is all in your head.

Best luck.

 

[neal0124]

Old thread but unfortunately applies to me.

05 4runner V8 2uzfe 103,xxx mi, 2.5/2 32.5s on 17s

At Nicolai Mtn in NW OR I sucked in some water and stalled out on the way out of a puddle with ruts that went from mild to uh-oh about 20 yards from the end. Yes, front fender liner is trimmed, and yes, I gassed it some to maintain momentum. Experienced wheeler making a rookie mistake. Clearly better to have stalled and walked a mile to get buddy's stock 02 Tundra and tow rope etc

Intake is stock. Pulling plugs before restart wasn't an option. Restarted and idled rough for a while but eventually ran perfect except for new RPM-connected ticking noise. (Not the cracked header problem, I have that too)

I drove home 80 min from the mountain and have driven a few hours since for work. Had new DTCs for Cyl 1 and 8 misfires plus the same old O2 sensor DTCs I've been ignoring for about 15k mi. Cleared them all and misfires have not returned. MPG is fine (actually a bit less crappy than before because I've been babying it 98% of the time). Transmission shifts perfectly. Power/accel is normal and no smoke in exhaust. Oil (dipstick) looks new. Oil temp and level perfect. Haven't drained oil to check for metal yet. I will tomorrow after work.

Rods and/or valves seem likely. Ticking sounds lower than heads to me but I'm trying to be optimistic.

Any thoughts/recommendations on other things to check, in order of least to most difficult disassembly-wise?

Any thoughts on additional damage I'm causing by driving it this way? Am I doing damage that will significantly increase rebuild cost (if I choose not to replace) or am I just risking a stranding?

I may use this as an excuse to buy a scope to try to get into oil drain hole.

I know I'm getting close to a timing belt and related replacements, plus a full tear down could motivate headers, but I've also been considering a new ride for a long time before this happened, so part of my question is, what's worse, the loss of my trade in/resale value, or sinking x,000 into repairs/replacements.

Thanks.

Valve-train/cam shaft tapping/clicking noise will be at half the rate as the bottom end ticking would be. You can try using some hose as a makeshift stethoscope to try to narrow down the location of the noise you're hearing. Just hold the hose to your ear and with the engine running run the other end around the area's you think you're hearing the noise coming from. Keep the open end close to the area you're listening to. You could also use a long screw driver to kinda do the same thing, especially at the valve covers. Hold the handle on your ear and touch the bit end to the area you're listening to. If the sound is originating from the bottom end you may be able to just feel it with your hand. Just put your hand on the oil pan while running. If it's bad enough you may be able to feel it.

You may have just gotten the coils or wiring wet and it needed to dry. The injectors are pretty loud too. It seems like you may just be getting a little paranoid after the initial issues and noticing noises that were already there. I've done the same thing. I used to have a Subaru STI. With the flat 4 engine, the coils (coil on plug design just like these V8's) are about a foot above the ground. I drove though a intersection that was a little flooded and it soaked the engine, even with all of the under body cowling. It started missing real bad, would barely run and if I put much of a load on it it would stall. I got to work and it sat all day. After the coils dried off it ran perfectly again.