blew a break line

[miheckman013]

i blew a break line.. the MC went dry so i but a new line on it and blead the breaks but the peddle still goes to the floor..


do you guys have any ideas what it might be do i need to adjust my rear shoes..



any help would be great thank you

 

[ajonesnv]

Did you bleed PR ---> DR ---> PF ---> DF, in that order?

 

[miheckman013]

Yeah and why would it matter what order you do them in

 

[Brilliant]

Yeah and why would it matter what order you do them in

one BRAKE line is longer than another and you need to get all the air out.

 

[MuddyButt]

You done broke the BRAKE line?!?!?!

 

[ajonesnv]

Yeah and why would it matter what order you do them in

You have a high potential not getting the air out of the line, as you would just be moving it from one line to another.

 

[nissanh]

This is how I bleed/drain the line. Get a 500 mL or so syringe and attach a hose and connet the other end to the bleed valve. Open the bleed valve a bit and pull the fluid out. If there is any air bubbles, those will come out too. FINALLY, get someone to press the brake paddle and remove the last few bubbles in the line.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

If yours is a 1999 to 2002, there is a special procedure to bleed the brakes if regular bleeding doesn't work. Found in the FSM, and it takes TechStream to do it.

 

[Chuckles89]

I've heard if the newer style master cylinder with the ABS in one unit (1999-2002) has to be bled by the dealer if it goes dry. I hope that isn't the case.

 

[broken wrench]

Depends on your production date as to which system you have. But the newer system does require tis to bleed it. Find a toy specialist with the software.

 

[miheckman013]

i will try to rebleed them in the way you guys say

 

[jeremyc74]

Did you bleed PR ---> DR ---> PF ---> DF, in that order?

Just FYI, the FSM says to start with the front. That's different from everything I've ever worked on, and I'm not sure why, but that's what it says.

OP, in your situation you're going to have to do a LOT of bleeding, and you have to follow the procedure in the FSM (ignition on, pump the hell out of the brakes, etc.) for it to work right.

You can read in the Tundra brake upgrade threads that people have to bleed them two or three times after just changing front calipers. With your system having been drained completely it's going to probably take more than that.

 

[miheckman013]

I got fluid at all 4 tires as it is

 

[jeremyc74]

I got fluid at all 4 tires as it is

Yes, but you still have all sorts of air trapped in the ABS valves and master cylinder. You can ask anyone who's ever bench bleed a master cylinder, it takes a lot of pumping to get the air completely out. Just getting fluid to the bleeders isn't even half the battle.

 

[miheckman013]

I don't have Abs it is a 1996 base model

 

[jeremyc74]

I don't have Abs it is a 1996 base model

Well, at least you have that going for you.

 

[KidVermicious]

I hate when I brake a break line.

 

[miheckman013]

Yeah would the rear shoes need adjusted

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I use a pressure bleeder. It takes all the fun out of brake bleeding.

I'm thinking you still have air in the Master Cylinder.

 

[ajonesnv]

Just FYI, the FSM says to start with the front. That's different from everything I've ever worked on, and I'm not sure why, but that's what it says.

OP, in your situation you're going to have to do a LOT of bleeding, and you have to follow the procedure in the FSM (ignition on, pump the hell out of the brakes, etc.) for it to work right.

You can read in the Tundra brake upgrade threads that people have to bleed them two or three times after just changing front calipers. With your system having been drained completely it's going to probably take more than that.

REALLY! Wow, I never bothered to even look it up because it seemed so common senseish. I lucked out then...I bled mine furthest to closest after my TBU and she is super responsive.