Blown Sub Fix

[New_2_4runners]

I had seen a few posts about blown subs recently and mine happened to start buzzing a few weeks later and I was pretty bummed because I didn’t feel like spending the $150 on the replacement sub so I set out to fix mine.

So you can remove just the sub/amp panel if you’re careful. What I did was stick my pocket knife in at the top where the 4 rivets are and twist and they broke loose. Then there are two on the sides that need the same treatment. It appears the previous owner of this vehicle tried to pop the cover off from the right hand side which is not the right place to start. Start at the top.

Then I had to find the right star bit to pull the speaker cover off. Once I did that I could see that the sub has two tiny little tabs in the metal ring that allow you to use pliers to pull the sub out.

Once out I simply repaired with elmers glue and popped it all back in. Good as new! Just wanted to make this write up for whoever might benefit from it.

 

[AuSeeker]

I had seen a few posts about blown subs recently and mine happened to start buzzing a few weeks later and I was pretty bummed because I didn’t feel like spending the $150 on the replacement sub so I set out to fix mine.

So you can remove just the sub/amp panel if you’re careful. What I did was stick my pocket knife in at the top where the 4 rivets are and twist and they broke loose. Then there are two on the sides that need the same treatment. It appears the previous owner of this vehicle tried to pop the cover off from the right hand side which is not the right place to start. Start at the top.

Then I had to find the right star bit to pull the speaker cover off. Once I did that I could see that the sub has two tiny little tabs in the metal ring that allow you to use pliers to pull the sub out.

Once out I simply repaired with elmers glue and popped it all back in. Good as new! Just wanted to make this write up for whoever might benefit from it.

Congratulations on saving some money on doing a simple repair to the sub-woofer, hopefully it will hold up well for you, I think I would of used a better adhesive to do the repair!

That being said I sure hope NO ONE follows your instructions on removing that panel, it appears you have broken all but maybe 2 or 3 of the 9 attachments points!! :wow: :faint:

I'm guessing you used double sided tape or lots of Elmers glue or similar to reattach it!

This link below shows the way it should be done, granted it's a lot more work but if you're going to do a repair research how it should be done so you do it correctly and avoid doing more damage than it would of cost to buy a new sub-woofer, I can assure you a new lower panel costs more ( around $400) than a new sub-woofer!!

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-...ve-subwoofer.html?highlight=subwoofer+replace

 

[jcaino]

No need to spend $150. 2 ohm, DVC, good-enough replacement:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQTU434/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bolt holes line up. I re-used the stock metal speaker grill instead of the included plastic trim piece.

I was able to get the box w/ amp attached without totally removing the trim panel, but it was tight getting it in and out.

 

[New_2_4runners]

AuSeeker...man that one stings!

So for whoever is reading this, please do whatever makes you comfortable, look around and read others’ experiences. That being said:


I just went out and took this video, this is the panel as is. It snaps back in nicely.
YouTube

I found that a simple “pry and pop” got the plastic rivets off without damaging the clips across the top as well as the hooks on the bottom and the studs on the sides.

Also, elmers glue and paper is exactly how speaker cones can be repaired as you’ll see if you check youtube there are a ton of videos like this one YouTube

So I’m bummed that you’re not a fan of my methods but I understand.


I’ll also note that maybe this speaker isn’t worth saving but if you’re in a thrifty mood I liked the results.

 

[AuSeeker]

I'm Ok with your method if you're Ok with it, after all it's your ride, I just wanted anyone else to know how to remove the panel and access the speaker properly the way Toyota intended it to be removed and not risk breaking anything as I could see some of the attachments points broken but apparently not enough to not let it fall off after reinstalling it, as far as the glue I'm a cabinet maker and I would have used a little better wood glue then just regular Elmers which can deteriorate from mositure/humidity, otherwise it's a great repair, I have repaired many in my lifetime.

 

[New_2_4runners]

AuSeeker, fair enough. I’ll have to look into wood glue as an option!

I’m kind of curious as to why Toyota plastic riveted the door closed when it clearly has snap hooks for making the door removable. Seems like it may have been removeable at first and later on they changed the design?

 

[AuSeeker]

AuSeeker, fair enough. I’ll have to look into wood glue as an option!

I’m kind of curious as to why Toyota plastic riveted the door closed when it clearly has snap hooks for making the door removable. Seems like it may have been removeable at first and later on they changed the design?

Not all wood glue is moisture resistant, in this case look for one that is, such as Titebond II which is water resistant, even better but not really needed for this appllication unless you need it for an outdoor speaker that could get wet is Titebond III which is water proof, both apply exactly the same as the Elmers you used but just a little thicker consistency and dries in about the same time frame, there are also other brands out there that will do the job just as well but these are the ones that are the industry standard and I used the most for this type of wood glue, these Titebond glues as well as other brands can be found at Home Depot/Lowes, most hardware stores and building supplies/lumber yards.

Elmers even makes glue that will work, the one you used is a good glue for what it was designed to do, crafts and school projects, etc., kid safe they can even eat it without ill effects, but of course you really don't want them to do that, but hey we all ate a little bit of glue when we were very young in school. :lol:

As far as to why they installed the panel in that fashion, couldn't say, maybe they had a vibration issue and the rivets solved the issue.

 

[TenTwelve]

Thanks for the tip on popping the panel. I was not looking forward to a coplete tear down when I upgraded my system.