Blue Sea Aux Fuse Block

Krayziekid

Krayziekid

New member
Hey guys, so I have a question for everyone running an auxiliary fuse block, specifically a blue seas box. I really want to add an extra fuse block in my 4Runner, partially to clean up the rats nest that is around my battery, but also to allow for easy expansion in the future. I kind of want to do this now while I only have a few accessories so I don’t have to spend days redoing wiring for a bunch of accessories.

I initially was going to do a bussmann relay box, and although it seems to be a good option, from what I have seen, I prefer the blue sea option as a distribution block.

So the plan right now seems to be the 12 slot fuse block with the cover and negative bus. I would run one 4Ga wire to a 100A circuit breaker, and then another 4Ga wire to the positive side of the block. I would then run a 4Ga wire from the negative bus to a ground on the chassis.

I just have two questions about wiring everything up before I jump in to this project. For small items like a CB, I will likely just run it to the block with a fuse to keep it simple. But for larger items (aux lights for the most part) I definitely want to run a simple relay. So these relays come after the fuse block (i.e. Battery -> Breaker -> Blue Sea Block -> Relay -> Accessory). I will run wire to pin 30 for power. I can then run the ground from pin 85 on the relay back to the ground bus on the fuse block right? Or is the ground bus on the fuse block meant for the ground coming from the accessory itself?

And then my other question is, is it possible to make the blue sea fuse block ignition switch without everything getting too complicated? I am normally very good about making sure everything is off before I turn off the car, but it would simply be some added insurance. Thanks for any advice!
 
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? (1)I can then run the ground from pin 85 on the relay back to the ground bus on the fuse block right? Or is the ground bus on the fuse block meant for the ground coming from the accessory itself?

? (2) And then my other question is, is it possible to make the blue sea fuse block ignition switch without everything getting too complicated? I am normally very good about making sure everything is off before I turn off the car, but it would simply be some added insurance. Thanks for any advice!

For(1), generally speaking, ground is ground. It doesn't matter where you ground as long as it is a GOOD connection. You can run both the ground from the relay (pin 85 in your case) AND the accessory, just ONE of them, or NEITHER. You can ground any of them locally; by that I mean at the relay or accessory. I typically ground my relay switch (85) at the screw/bolt I mount the relay with unless I'm using a ground switch. In a marine application, typically there is no local ground possible (think wooden or fiberglass boat) so it has to come back to the fuse panel (or2 some other ground bus)
For the accessory, you can run a wire all the way back to the (Blue Sea) fuse block or find a good ground close to the accessory. Think of powering aux. reverse lights: do you want to run a ground wire all the way from the back lights back to the fuse bock? Just remember it has to be the same gauge or larger as the power wire to the accessory & they have to be the proper gauge to handle the current of the accessory for that entire run.

(2) - A couple things you can do here. One, if you are OK with having EVERYTHING in the fuse block controlled by the IGN or ACC circuit, you can add a high current relay (100 amp or larger in your case) BETWEEN the circuit breaker and the fuse block. This relay would be controlled (switched) by the ACC or IGN circuit (your choice).
OR you could use ground switching for the relays. Connect pin 86 (in your case) to power from either the ACC or IGN circuit, then connect from pin 85 to your switch, then from the switch to a local ground. Now this may or may not work if your switch has a light when on; typically there is not much current running through the coil (switch) of the relay so bear that in mind. This would allow different circuits (ACC or IGN or even BAT) to control various accessories.
 
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SSt4r said:
? (1)I can then run the ground from pin 85 on the relay back to the ground bus on the fuse block right? Or is the ground bus on the fuse block meant for the ground coming from the accessory itself?

? (2) And then my other question is, is it possible to make the blue sea fuse block ignition switch without everything getting too complicated? I am normally very good about making sure everything is off before I turn off the car, but it would simply be some added insurance. Thanks for any advice!

For(1), generally speaking, ground is ground. It doesn't matter where you ground as long as it is a GOOD connection. You can run both the ground from the relay (pin 85 in your case) AND the accessory, just ONE of them, or NEITHER. You can ground any of them locally; by that I mean at the relay or accessory. I typically ground my relay switch (85) at the screw/bolt I mount the relay with unless I'm using a ground switch. In a marine application, typically there is no local ground possible (think wooden or fiberglass boat) so it has to come back to the fuse panel (or2 some other ground bus)
For the accessory, you can run a wire all the way back to the (Blue Sea) fuse block or find a good ground close to the accessory. Think of powering aux. reverse lights: do you want to run a ground wire all the way from the back lights back to the fuse bock? Just remember it has to be the same gauge or larger as the power wire to the accessory & they have to be the proper gauge to handle the current of the accessory for that entire run.

(2) - A couple things you can do here. One, if you are OK with having EVERYTHING in the fuse block controlled by the IGN or ACC circuit, you can add a high current relay (100 amp or larger in your case) BETWEEN the circuit breaker and the fuse block. This relay would be controlled (switched) by the ACC or IGN circuit (your choice).
OR you could use ground switching for the relays. Connect pin 86 (in your case) to power from either the ACC or IGN circuit, then connect from pin 85 to your switch, then from the switch to a local ground. Now this may or may not work if your switch has a light when on; typically there is not much current running through the coil (switch) of the relay so bear that in mind. This would allow different circuits (ACC or IGN or even BAT) to control various accessories.
Click to expand...

Hey man. Thanks for the response! For my first question, I didn't even think about running the grounds like that. I am planning on putting roof lights and reverse lights in the future, and you are right, running the ground all the way from there would likely be a pain. I think I'm going to plan on grounding all of the relays to the fuse block, and then grounding the accessories themselves to the various locations that are closer to them. That way I have fewer wires running the length of the car, and everything should be neater.

And then for the second point. This is where I am still a bit confused. From what I am reading, some people are saying a relay would work, others say to use a solenoid, and others say it really isn't needed and complicates things. For the relay, could I use something like this? When I wire it, does the following sound correct? Pin 30 comes from the circuit breaker. Pin 85 gets grounded. Pin 86 comes from an IGN/ACC tapped OEM fuse. Pin 87 goes to the fuse block. That way, the relay only gets activated when the ignition is turned on. The only thing I am seeing is that how would I run larger enough wire to and from this relay? I was planning on using 4Ga wire to handle the load from the battery to the breaker and fuse block, but I don't think I can fit 4Ga wire on this relay. Thanks again for all of your help!
 
The relay you linked might be fine. Understand that the coil terminals on that relay are typical 1/4 spade and the high current terminals (30 87 87a) are 3/8 spade. I don't have any spade terminals that large (3/8) so I can't say whether the load from 4Ga wire is OK.

Basically, the solenoid that your talking about IS a relay. Example: http://www.amazon.com/CONTINUOUS-SO...=UTF8&qid=1459880577&sr=8-3&keywords=solenoid .

Now the way you described wiring it is fine & typical but if you are using a SPDT relay, I'd wire 87 to the circuit breaker and 30 to the fuse block. Otherwise, when the relay is off, 87a will be energized (not really an issue, but something you'd want to be aware of. You could simply insulate 87a to avoid inadvertent contact with it?).
 
SSt4r said:
The relay you linked might be fine. Understand that the coil terminals on that relay are typical 1/4 spade and the high current terminals (30 87 87a) are 3/8 spade. I don't have any spade terminals that large (3/8) so I can't say whether the load from 4Ga wire is OK.

Basically, the solenoid that your talking about IS a relay. Example: http://www.amazon.com/CONTINUOUS-SO...=UTF8&qid=1459880577&sr=8-3&keywords=solenoid .

Now the way you described wiring it is fine & typical but if you are using a SPDT relay, I'd wire 87 to the circuit breaker and 30 to the fuse block. Otherwise, when the relay is off, 87a will be energized (not really an issue, but something you'd want to be aware of. You could simply insulate 87a to avoid inadvertent contact with it?).
Click to expand...

Ok this is starting to make more sense. It seems like I have everything I need right now then. The only other question I have revolves around that solenoid you linked. How does something like that get wired? I have never wired or seen a solenoid before so I am totally clueless. Obviously it would come after the circuit breaker, but how does it get wired/work?
 
Pretty much like the relay. The two large posts (horizontally opposed in he one I linked) are the same as your 30 & 87 terminals. The two smaller ones are the turn on lead, 85 & 86.
 
not trying to hyjack or divert elsewhere, but the SwitchPros unit has built in fuses and has the ability to function as a relay. plus it is a small switch body that can be easily attached.
 
SSt4r said:
Pretty much like the relay. The two large posts (horizontally opposed in he one I linked) are the same as your 30 & 87 terminals. The two smaller ones are the turn on lead, 85 & 86.
Click to expand...

Ok thank you so much for all of your help! I am still trying to figure out what route I want to go down (12 fuse block vs 2x6 fuse blocks), but I really appreciate you walking me through it. I'll let you know if I have any other questions though!
 
Krayziekid, If you have a need for more than 6 circuits, I'd get the 12 unless you want the blocks located in different areas.

SAR_Runner, that looks really slick, but pretty expensive: Switch Pros - Home . If I needed several more switches I'd look into this. Good info.!
 
SSt4r said:
Krayziekid, If you have a need for more than 6 circuits, I'd get the 12 unless you want the blocks located in different areas.

SAR_Runner, that looks really slick, but pretty expensive: Switch Pros - Home . If I needed several more switches I'd look into this. Good info.!
Click to expand...

I was thinking about splitting it so I could make 1x6 fuse block always hot, and another 1x6 fuse block ignition switched.

And that Switch Pros thing looks pretty cool. Might have to look in to it.
 
Nob Question does anyone have a wiring diagram of how to wire your lights to the aux fuse block? So would it go light relay, switch, fuse block ?
 
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