You want to run the MPPT off the same wiring from the battery back to your fuse block? I'm not familiar with MPPTs other than their general purpose as I've not yet messed with solar for charging anything so I'm probably not much help in that area.
Blue Sea fuse block in cabin
- Thread starter ViperNL
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You want to run the MPPT off the same wiring from the battery back to your fuse block? I'm not familiar with MPPTs other than their general purpose as I've not yet messed with solar for charging anything so I'm probably not much help in that area.
bring_it_on
New member
Essentially yes. I'm bringing in a 4 gauge positive and ground wire from the hood all the way to the rear of the trunk (to be connected to a fuse block) and I want to tap into that instead of sending a fresh set of 10 AWG wires up to the bay and into the battery. I think that's how most folks do this but this is something that I am still learning and figuring out.
So you're going to use the MPPT to recharge your main battery from a solar panel?
bring_it_on
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Yep, spent the last week thinking about this and talking to folks who are successfully running this type of setup on the 4Runner and other vehicles.
It is the right approach for me. A victron MPPT will be connected to a Renogy 160 Watt panel that will feed into the main/starter battery. I currently have a Group 34 as I don't run a fridge. It came from my previous rig.
When I buy the fridge, I'll most probably, also upgrade to a Group 27 battery. That would give me a 92 Amp Hour main battery, connected to solar that can replenish the battery both when stationary and when moving (along with the alternator). It will also ensure a proper AGM charge and would save me the hassle of plugging in my AGM via AC to keep it nicely topped up.
I'll also carry a portable Lithium battery with me on extended trips. It's something we need anyways for our outdoor needs and this will come in handy on very hot days/nights when I can simply disconnect fridge from the starter battery and plug it into the portable lithium battery. Folks have been getting Engel fridges to run for 24 hours or more with some of these (I believe Jackery 500 is a good one). Some of the medium sized ones are in the 30-40 Ah range and a good investment if you go outside for about a week or less.
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From an electrical standpoint, seems like you should be able to backfeed the system from the fuse box. I'd probably just attach the MPPT to an unused set of terminals in the box, fused appropriately of course and that's that.
As for the rest of it, realistically you're only going to be able to use about half that 92ah from the AGM battery so plan accordingly. Having the Jackery 500 around is a good idea. It's all just math though: how many ah draw you have vs how many ah you have available, accounting for efficiency losses etc.
bring_it_on
New member
Yes that is what I will most likely do. Didn't know if it was OK to do this until recently so that makes it a lot easier. Will fuse appropriately for the MPPT and the fuse panel will itself run off of the 100A breaker located under the hood next to the battery.
Yup that's the aim for using a portable charger a a back up and as a way of running the fridge. At 4A draw with a 50% duty cycle I will consume something like 48Ah a day. Likely a lot less since the 40L Engel probably doesn't go over 3A. And the engine will be running during some of that time as well. 160 Watts of solar, along with the alternator (we very rarely will spend more than a night at a location without moving) should replenish that with the lithium as a backup. I may go overkill on the portable lithium just because it comes handy when going outdoors in some other vehicle or just around the house..
bring_it_on
New member
Ran the wires (4AWG) to the back this evening. Couldn't decide between split tubing or loom so decided to go with both at least for the portions where the wire rubs against the plastic and metal around the jack mount area and into the top of the wheel well area. Have a plate that I need to drill holes in and mount the blue sea fuse block and then crimp the lugs on. Hope to get it done over the weekend. All inspired by [MENTION=47340]Titanpat57[/MENTION] build so a tip of the hat to him for documenting his installation and the help.
[MENTION=47340]Titanpat57[/MENTION] do you leave the jack in its location? Just wondering with all the panels and accesories going in there whether it all becomes too much of a hassle to get it out..
[MENTION=47340]Titanpat57[/MENTION] do you leave the jack in its location? Just wondering with all the panels and accesories going in there whether it all becomes too much of a hassle to get it out..
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Titanpat57
Senior Member
I did leave the jack...I did move the tools into my drawers.
I can provide a picture sometime tomorrow.
I can provide a picture sometime tomorrow.
bring_it_on
New member
Thanks. No need for the pic. I think as long as it is feasible I'll force myself to do proper cable management so that the jack slides in and out easily. The tools will live in the drawer system which is on order. My solar is going to be via an anderson plug so that it can be removed and used to charge the portable lithium unit instead. Will be mounting this to make the process of getting cables in and out easy. Have to decide whether to use the jack area panel or the one adjacent to it for the rear light to route the cables in. All the cables will be tied in place and route upwards to the molle rack system where the MPPT will live and where the anderson plugs will stay. Fingers crossed to have it done by Saturday..
bring_it_on
New member
Just completed the final installation and connections last night. It was a pain in the a$$ to try to mount the breaker on the Rago fabrication dual compressor tray without removing it. Ran the two 4AWG cables to the back a while back, fused the cable using a blue sea terminal fuse and have a blue sea breaker in the engine bay. Cables run to the back of the jack storage area and the fuse block does not obstruct during the removal of the jack. I clearly need to redo the stickers on the fuse panels 
Need to button up the wires and how the run as I have a temporary setup awaiting my decision to either stick a larger single battery in there or a dual battery setup. That's for later perhaps in the fall..
Still a far cry from the ultimate electrical Instagram Overlanding Quadfecta™ but for an amateur camper, I think it will suffice for now. Will add solar soon.
Need to button up the wires and how the run as I have a temporary setup awaiting my decision to either stick a larger single battery in there or a dual battery setup. That's for later perhaps in the fall..
Still a far cry from the ultimate electrical Instagram Overlanding Quadfecta™ but for an amateur camper, I think it will suffice for now. Will add solar soon.
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bring_it_on
New member
Thanks. No need for the pic. I think as long as it is feasible I'll force myself to do proper cable management so that the jack slides in and out easily. The tools will live in the drawer system which is on order. My solar is going to be via an anderson plug so that it can be removed and used to charge the portable lithium unit instead. Will be mounting this to make the process of getting cables in and out easy. Have to decide whether to use the jack area panel or the one adjacent to it for the rear light to route the cables in. All the cables will be tied in place and route upwards to the molle rack system where the MPPT will live and where the anderson plugs will stay. Fingers crossed to have it done by Saturday..
Here's it installed in case someone was looking for this solution as a way to route wires through to the jack-storage area..
