FactoryRide
New member
Body Mount Chop
My reasons for doing this were to not have to shell out money for UCAs right now. They will happen eventually, but not right now while I’m using spacers as my lift solution. I am currently running 285 Hankook MTs with spidertrax wheel spacers and I believe that was my reason for the body mount rubbing. I had my alignment done right after I got the new tires and it helped a little bit, but I just wasn’t able to get enough positive castor to remedy the rubbing.
My solution was to chop my body mounts. I didn’t want them completely gone though. I feel like the function of them are to prevent the wheels from getting pushed back into the cab in a head on collision, so I wanted them to be somewhat present when I was finished.
I sat there and stared at them for about an hour trying to decide how I wanted to approach doing this, and here is what I came up with.
My plan was to cut out a ¾” wedge and push back and weld. I rented a sawzall thinking that would work, but the grinder with a cutting wheel turned out to work best.
Here it is after I got it cut out.
Cleaned up to weld
I then took the sledge hammer to it only to find that I was just getting bounce back and the piece wasn’t budging. So I thought some more. On the bottom side of the mount, it has the overlap that was causing my problems. I figured I’d cut into that and make a score mark to allow for it to move.
This fixed my problems, and I was able to line up the pieces to be able to weld.
Now before I post pictures of my welds. Keep in mind I only started welding last semester and don’t have near enough time to be able to practice to be good with stick welding(shoulda got a Mig instead of a stick welder). My welds are functional and not pleasing to the eye lol. There were also places where I had to fill 1/4” to 1/2” gaps.
I welded the bottom together first.
Then I broke out my pry bar to put in between the body and the frame to try and close the large gaps I had to tack the top part of the cut out together.
Once tacked, I started to weld it together. I did the passenger side first and it turned out as ugly as I had expected it to.
Passenger side after cleaned up a little bit.
Drivers side with the large gap I had to fill
Once I got finished getting it all cleaned up and taped off I painted it. I used Rustoleum High Performance Primer and Gloss Black enamel.
BAM!! No more rubbing.
At full compression I was still able to have about 1/16” of clearance with the tires inflated to 35psi. If I air down, I’m sure it may rub a little bit at full lock and full compression, but not enough that I would get hung up. If I ever go up to 35s or so, I’ll most likely cut it way back, but that’s a while down the road. But enjoy!
Oh and here's a pic that made my truck feel small.
My reasons for doing this were to not have to shell out money for UCAs right now. They will happen eventually, but not right now while I’m using spacers as my lift solution. I am currently running 285 Hankook MTs with spidertrax wheel spacers and I believe that was my reason for the body mount rubbing. I had my alignment done right after I got the new tires and it helped a little bit, but I just wasn’t able to get enough positive castor to remedy the rubbing.
My solution was to chop my body mounts. I didn’t want them completely gone though. I feel like the function of them are to prevent the wheels from getting pushed back into the cab in a head on collision, so I wanted them to be somewhat present when I was finished.
I sat there and stared at them for about an hour trying to decide how I wanted to approach doing this, and here is what I came up with.
My plan was to cut out a ¾” wedge and push back and weld. I rented a sawzall thinking that would work, but the grinder with a cutting wheel turned out to work best.
Here it is after I got it cut out.
Cleaned up to weld
I then took the sledge hammer to it only to find that I was just getting bounce back and the piece wasn’t budging. So I thought some more. On the bottom side of the mount, it has the overlap that was causing my problems. I figured I’d cut into that and make a score mark to allow for it to move.
This fixed my problems, and I was able to line up the pieces to be able to weld.
Now before I post pictures of my welds. Keep in mind I only started welding last semester and don’t have near enough time to be able to practice to be good with stick welding(shoulda got a Mig instead of a stick welder). My welds are functional and not pleasing to the eye lol. There were also places where I had to fill 1/4” to 1/2” gaps.
I welded the bottom together first.
Then I broke out my pry bar to put in between the body and the frame to try and close the large gaps I had to tack the top part of the cut out together.
Once tacked, I started to weld it together. I did the passenger side first and it turned out as ugly as I had expected it to.
Passenger side after cleaned up a little bit.
Drivers side with the large gap I had to fill
Once I got finished getting it all cleaned up and taped off I painted it. I used Rustoleum High Performance Primer and Gloss Black enamel.
BAM!! No more rubbing.
At full compression I was still able to have about 1/16” of clearance with the tires inflated to 35psi. If I air down, I’m sure it may rub a little bit at full lock and full compression, but not enough that I would get hung up. If I ever go up to 35s or so, I’ll most likely cut it way back, but that’s a while down the road. But enjoy!
Oh and here's a pic that made my truck feel small.
