Brake bleeder board

txcrawl

txcrawl

Junior Member
I had a leaking brake caliper and decided to put the replacement on last night. Everything went great until I had to bleed the brakes. Unfortunately I had to choose a time when my wife is out of town and neighbors aren't around to pump the pedal.. so I found a board to wedge in between the brake pedal and seat after pumping them myself.
 

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LOL! That needs to be marketed! The New Brake Bleeder Board!

That's some McGuyvering done properly right there! You win the interwebs photo of the day today!!!:first:
 
Good call on that. im going to measure and cut board for my runner volvo and bmw. Thanks for the inspiration. I kept trying to wedge bricks when i didn't have anyone to press the peddle.
 
So I am trying to bleed the brakes on my SR5 94 Toyota 4runner (33" tires). Problem was burnt fluid and spongy brakes so I replaced master cylinder. Keep in mind I could get fluid to the rear prior to replacement of the MC. After a bench bleed and install, I still could not get any pressure in the system or fluid to the rear. The old fluid had got water in it I am guessing due to the bad cap on the MC, boiled and went bad. So I loaded the runner up and hauled it to a local shop and had lines flushed out. Ok, so after the flush and a new MC, I removed the LSPV, blocked every line properly, installed a new brake booster and still no pressure or pedal. I am at a complete loss. I have basically rebuilt this brake system including pads/shoes. There is no ABS on this Japanese built 3.0L 3VZ powered 4runner. We are strapped for doe as we are building a house so I can't just keep blowing money on this rig by sending it to a shop. Please advise. Any help will be greatly appreciated as I miss my 4runner!
 
Madmallard87 said:
So I am trying to bleed the brakes on my SR5 94 Toyota 4runner (33" tires). Problem was burnt fluid and spongy brakes so I replaced master cylinder. Keep in mind I could get fluid to the rear prior to replacement of the MC. After a bench bleed and install, I still could not get any pressure in the system or fluid to the rear. The old fluid had got water in it I am guessing due to the bad cap on the MC, boiled and went bad. So I loaded the runner up and hauled it to a local shop and had lines flushed out. Ok, so after the flush and a new MC, I removed the LSPV, blocked every line properly, installed a new brake booster and still no pressure or pedal. I am at a complete loss. I have basically rebuilt this brake system including pads/shoes. There is no ABS on this Japanese built 3.0L 3VZ powered 4runner. We are strapped for doe as we are building a house so I can't just keep blowing money on this rig by sending it to a shop. Please advise. Any help will be greatly appreciated as I miss my 4runner!
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Fifteen post minimum for new members strikes again, I assume this old thread is as close as you could get to your issue. Anyway welcome and it is assumed you know how to bleed brakes. A couple of questions:
Are you now getting fluid to each wheel? I would have made sure each flowed freely at each caliper before making the connection?
Have you tried a mighty vac or other suction tool to draw fluid through the system?
And of course the old adjustment on the pedal actuator rod is sufficient to properly activate the master cylinder, right.
My thoughts would be that if you have pre-bleed the master and it worked and there is fluid in the lines and MC reservoir and no brake fluid on the floor it should build pressure. unless, you have a defective master cylinder that total went south a the tiniest bit of real pressure was put to it?
 
Some times flexible lines collapse internally. They might look good from the outside but they are toasted on the inside. Once you put pressure on them they act like a heart bypass waiting to happen. I'd check those out.
 
Thanks for the response!!! Ok, I bench bleed the MC and installed it and new booster. However! I adjusted the peddle throw to the old booster length by measuring it with some calipers I had at the shop but hey......is this the correct length? I now having read this beg this question because I bottled up the line going to the rear and was going to use just the front brakes to get it to a shop. With my father helping me we can get fluid out the front calipers but can not get anything to the rear of the truck. I had the lines flushed before we started at a local shop thinking that would be the fix.....it was not. So here we are bleeding the front brakes down. New pads, front wheel off one side check caliper operation. New booster, new MC, and still not pumping up tight. Nothing is leaking, if there were an leak....would we not be getting fluid leaking????
 
Frustration has set in. I have everything torn down and a mess. I am loosing fluid every where. I remember a guy on a form stating he lost a gallon of fluid before he got it right. Well I am creeping up on a gallon. I am running 33" tires. The brakes didn't get super spongy till I put those on. I deleted/removed the LSPV to get more pressure to the rear also and so far I can't tell anything is leaking from that mod. Where can I get the lines at the correct length. When my fluid boiled could that have destroyed the flex lines?
 
Update: Defeated I turn shop lights on and let up the doors to ease my wounded 4runner onto the trailer I have hooked up to our 92 Hilux 4x4. Fire it up and I have brakes! Not full pedal but they are there enough I can drive it safely onto the trailer. I am dumb founded, but I will be able to limp to a shop for a flush and an air bleed. The AC needs a full service so the rig was bound for the shop anyway. Thoughts?
 
Easy. It's going to the mechanic. So she will probably be perfect by the time she gets there. Good luck


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