Brake bleeding question

[stever1000]

For pre 2001-2002 4runners (96-2000), does turning the key to on have any effect?
Why not have the engine running to use the booster to help bleed the brakes?

 

[phattyduck]

For pre 2001-2002 4runners (96-2000), does turning the key to on have any effect?
Why not have the engine running to use the booster to help bleed the brakes?

Key on or engine on isn't needed or helpful for the earlier ('96-'00) 4Runners.

In fact, you probably don't want the booster helping. Your goal isn't to put a large amount of PSI into the brake system - you are only going to push the volume of fluid that the brake master can move. Extra pressure doesn't help.
Once you open a bleeder, the pedal will drop right to the floor - why add extra pressure to the process?

-Charlie

 

[stever1000]

Key on or engine on isn't needed or helpful for the earlier ('96-'00) 4Runners.

In fact, you probably don't want the booster helping. Your goal isn't to put a large amount of PSI into the brake system - you are only going to push the volume of fluid that the brake master can move. Extra pressure doesn't help.
Once you open a bleeder, the pedal will drop right to the floor - why add extra pressure to the process?

-Charlie

Perfect, thanks for the clarification!

 

[Familyman31213]

I have a 1997, but the same tthing is happening when I try it. On each of the four bleeders i got an initial surge of fluid but thats about it. I already bought speedbleeders and really dont want to buy a 50-some-dollar vacuum pump. Post back if you figure it ou OP.

Hey guys
I'm wondering if anybody figured out anything more about this. I just got a2000 4cyl from my pops and I could literally press the brake pedal all the way to the floor and have it still rolling forward. One of his friends told him it was a master cylinder so I started with the master cylinder and nobody's ever taught me to do anything so I kind of just took it apart and put it back together I failed to bench bleed it prior to stepping on the pedal of much of times like an idiot. But I did take it back apart bench bleed it and today I put a new brake power booster in and I'm still having a super squishy brake pedal it'll go all the way down to the floor. I tried to adjust the pedal because I actually read that on another thread. I'm at a loss snow like I said I've never been told anything so I don't know what else to try. The truck is a 2000 4 cylinder two wheel drive there is one bad bleeder valve on the front left closest to the MC I've bled them two times now about 10 sets of 5 pumps and hold on each tire, the truck has three hundred thousand some odd miles and my dad doesn't ever remember doing the rear shoes so I'm wondering if it could be that any advice on what to do next would be greatly appreciated I'm stuck right now with no vehicle. And really need to get this thing done. I've been working on this now for 3 days trying to get the right parts xcetera!!
Thanks guys

 

[19963.4lsr5]

First thing you need to do is open each bleeder one at at time starting at the one fartherest away from the MC and keep it open till a solid stream of fluid comes out. Don't pump the brakes or nothin. Just open each and watch. Keeping the MC full.

If the fluid is clean and no micro air bubbles are in the fluid you can reuse it. If micro air bubbles you need to let it sit till they go away.

Then open each bleeder 1 at a time and have your helper push the pedal to the floor then close the bleeder and then release the pedal. Do this to each bleeder. And see what happens.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jjohns2711]

Reviving yet another brake thread to aid my future TBU!

I have a 2002 4Runner, equipped with the obnoxious, massive, and over complicated master cylinder. I’ve read threads giving instructions like “pump the pedal 40 times, then turn and leave the key on” before bleeding.

This is my question: I have a Capri power bleeder. It gets its power from a pneumatic compressor. Instead of pressurizing the MC (like a Motive), my tool sucks at the bleeder. I have bled NUMEROUS cars’ complete brake systems with this tool (including my 2011 Tacoma) and absolutely love it. Can I just crack open a bleeder on my ‘02 4Runner and let my tool get to work? Do I need to turn the key at all? Surely if it bled a car 10 years newer, it would have no problem pulling fluid through my ‘02’s archaic MC. Either way, let me know what you all think. Sorry for the revival.

 

[Bad Luck]

Reviving yet another brake thread to aid my future TBU!

I have a 2002 4Runner, equipped with the obnoxious, massive, and over complicated master cylinder. I’ve read threads giving instructions like “pump the pedal 40 times, then turn and leave the key on” before bleeding.

This is my question: I have a Capri power bleeder. It gets its power from a pneumatic compressor. Instead of pressurizing the MC (like a Motive), my tool sucks at the bleeder. I have bled NUMEROUS cars’ complete brake systems with this tool (including my 2011 Tacoma) and absolutely love it. Can I just crack open a bleeder on my ‘02 4Runner and let my tool get to work? Do I need to turn the key at all? Surely if it bled a car 10 years newer, it would have no problem pulling fluid through my ‘02’s archaic MC. Either way, let me know what you all think. Sorry for the revival.

It would probably work fine with the key off, but I would turn the key on or have the vehicle running while bleeding

 

[jjohns2711]

Perfect. Will check back in a week or two when I have the chance to do it. I run this tool at 100-120 PSI or so, it should suck the soul out of the poor bleeders.

 

[jjohns2711]

Checking back in: I tried to bleed with no key in ignition, didn’t get much fluid. I then tried with the key in the “on” position to get the MC to wake up, didn’t make much of a difference.

I then turned the car ON, and began to bleed with my Capri power bleeder. I was able to get all the fluid I needed out, and the process went smoothly. I am posting this for anyone with a similar question!

 

[gtojimbo]

rear first

this is from my 1999 toyota repair manual-it makes a point of starting with the rear first and bleeding master cylinder--hope it helps!