Bigfootsmurf
New member
Changing my brake hoses, the manual says to use a flair-nut wrench. Is this essential or can I use a regular wrench?
Brake hoses
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Bad_Vision
Moderator
you can use a regular wrench, the flare nut wrench wraps around 5 sides of the nut because its a typical spot for rust and can strip out easy if it has rust. they like you to use it so you have less chance of screwing up and breaking the nut ot line, if you dont have a lot of tools go buy one it can save you a lot of money in the long run.
evil_motors
New member
I agree with bad vision. they have saved me quite a few times. just remember to spray them down with some pb blaster a couple times before you try to break them loose.
Bigfootsmurf
New member
Got the flared wrenches, and still managed to strip a nut.... Probably gonna take to a shop, I have a feeling the power assist is out. The brakes work, it's just that the pedal has to be all the way down. Bled the lines a couple times, got air out, but still the same, and brake fluid stays full.
Bad_Vision
Moderator
like i said they get rusty, the brake booster is a easy fix you can do it yourself dont pay a shop they will charge you a arm and a leg for something that would take you only a hour to do with hand tools. but its your choice
fourwd1
Moderator
Try vice grips first. Maybe a little heat.
If the brake booster was bad, the pedal would require a lot more effort, but the travel shouldn't change. Disconnect and plug the vac line to the booster and see if it changes or not. If it stays the same the booster is probably bad. If it becomes hard to push, the booster is good.
Bigfootsmurf
New member
So I was told, heat it up, splash cold water on it, and crank it right away with the vice grips. How hot to I need it? Is the cold water necessary?
Bad_Vision
Moderator
very bad idea!!!!!
your talking about flash heating and cooling, this causes stress and warp.
you should be able to free it with just vise grips if not then take the caliper out of the truck and put it on a bench and disassemble it. there are o rings and rubber parts that if you heat it on the truck you will melt and it will be a totally useless.
if all else fails the caliper is only 40 + 10 dollar core so just get a remaned one and be done with it.
your talking about flash heating and cooling, this causes stress and warp.
you should be able to free it with just vise grips if not then take the caliper out of the truck and put it on a bench and disassemble it. there are o rings and rubber parts that if you heat it on the truck you will melt and it will be a totally useless.
if all else fails the caliper is only 40 + 10 dollar core so just get a remaned one and be done with it.
Bigfootsmurf
New member
SUCCESS
arty:
Got the nuts freed with nice new sharp vice grips, replaced the hoses, bled the lines, no better than before.....
While bleeding the lines up around the resevoir, I could hear a... squishy(for lack of a better word) sound while my wife pumped the brakes. Sounds to me like a fluid air exchange going on. Are there seals around the master cylinder that might need to be replaced?
Is it worth buying a second hand master cylinder, if I could get one off a newer model that would work...?
And Bad Vision, if you ever make your 4runner amphibious, I want the plans, that would be sweet lol.
arty:Got the nuts freed with nice new sharp vice grips, replaced the hoses, bled the lines, no better than before.....
While bleeding the lines up around the resevoir, I could hear a... squishy(for lack of a better word) sound while my wife pumped the brakes. Sounds to me like a fluid air exchange going on. Are there seals around the master cylinder that might need to be replaced?
Is it worth buying a second hand master cylinder, if I could get one off a newer model that would work...?
And Bad Vision, if you ever make your 4runner amphibious, I want the plans, that would be sweet lol.
4runner_kid
Senior Member
The T100 master is told to be "a upgraded" master. That's what i have heard. Never tried one and not sure if they bolt up, but i don't see why it wouldn't bolt up.
fourwd1
Moderator
What'd I tell you
Check the seal where the plastic reservoir mounts to the MC. Although if that were bad, you'd expect to see a fluid leak.
Another possibility would be a MC internal leak.
As for another MC, arbitrarily using another MC because of someone told you they heard somewhere, is not the best idea. There is a specific balance to a brake system.
Bigfootsmurf
New member
I kinda figured that brake systems were rather specific. The last thing I want is a brake issue while crawling up or down a steep narrow mountain trail. I only thought of a newer model figuring one of the same year is likely to have the same problem, is it better to just go new if the MC is the problem.
Gonna check all the possible seals first. First time the brakes went out the reservoir was empty, but haven't noticed any fluid loss since then. Couldn't see any place that indicated a leak either. Only thing I saw was a small wet spot on the front right brake hose, figured if it was fluid getting out that air would be getting in, but new hoses hasn't fixed the problem.
keep on searching.
Gonna check all the possible seals first. First time the brakes went out the reservoir was empty, but haven't noticed any fluid loss since then. Couldn't see any place that indicated a leak either. Only thing I saw was a small wet spot on the front right brake hose, figured if it was fluid getting out that air would be getting in, but new hoses hasn't fixed the problem.
keep on searching.
Bigfootsmurf
New member
I can only see one place with signs of a leak, and that is right under the power boost. The paint on the wheel well is all bubbled, and the power boost paint is bubbled and a little rusty all around where the MC bolts on.
I'm thinking possibly the seal under the reservoir, or a leack in the MC.
A new MC is $140, rubuild kit $75 but hard to find, and a used one a Pick-a-Part is $14, is it worth getting a used one or am I asking for trouble. Also, the only one they have at that particular yard is for the V6, I have the 4, will it work? I'm not looking to restore this vehicle and enter car shows with it, just planning to use it as a toy in the bush and beat the hell out of it. Don't want to sink a lot of money into it, but don't want to die 4xing either, looking for that balance lol.
I'm thinking possibly the seal under the reservoir, or a leack in the MC.
A new MC is $140, rubuild kit $75 but hard to find, and a used one a Pick-a-Part is $14, is it worth getting a used one or am I asking for trouble. Also, the only one they have at that particular yard is for the V6, I have the 4, will it work? I'm not looking to restore this vehicle and enter car shows with it, just planning to use it as a toy in the bush and beat the hell out of it. Don't want to sink a lot of money into it, but don't want to die 4xing either, looking for that balance lol.
evil_motors
New member
I would probably stay away from one out of a wrecking yard because A) you dont know how long its been sitting and B) maybe that is why it is in a wrecking yard.
Bigfootsmurf
New member
This is my MC. You can see that it has some corrosion. I'm wondering if it could be as simple as the seal between the MC and the powerboost? It seems to be wet in that area. And I can hear noise like air getting in around that area when the brakes are pumped.
Also, there are five attachments there for brake lines, do I need to bleed all five, or just the two on top?
Also, there are five attachments there for brake lines, do I need to bleed all five, or just the two on top?
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