Brake lights constantly on?

[rwh963]

ok, feeling a "new" issue. connected? getting intermittent throttle dead zones.
i'll be accelerating, and i can feel an empty spot, where i can floor the pedal and get no response. after a couple of seconds, it kicks back in. doesn't seem to occur back to back during a single episode, but is recurring through the day. weird. vehicle starts up and idles fine.

 

[ThatRed4thGen]

This happened to a friend of mine. Ended up just needing to clean the gunk on the brake pedal sensor and it fixed it.

 

[Jakeepoo3]

ok, feeling a "new" issue. connected? getting intermittent throttle dead zones.
i'll be accelerating, and i can feel an empty spot, where i can floor the pedal and get no response. after a couple of seconds, it kicks back in. doesn't seem to occur back to back during a single episode, but is recurring through the day. weird. vehicle starts up and idles fine.

Man you're having all kinds of sh1tty issues. A thousand things could cause that.. something as simple as cleaning your throttle body for example (I assume you've maintained that before).. or another symptom of your wet corroded skid computer.. PULL ALL CODES MANUALLY for answers to the sources of your issues. Don't replace all the parts on the car. Fix the source (typically free).. PULL CODES MANUALLY

 

[rwh963]

Man you're having all kinds of sh1tty issues. A thousand things could cause that.. something as simple as cleaning your throttle body for example (I assume you've maintained that before).. or another symptom of your wet corroded skid computer.. PULL ALL CODES MANUALLY for answers to the sources of your issues. Don't replace all the parts on the car. Fix the source (typically free).. PULL CODES MANUALLY

PULL CODES MANUALLY: may have to learn to do this. learning curve and time availability. any recommended video tutorials?

ordered a bottle of techron concentrate. never used it in this vehicle before. can't hurt, right?

wet corroded skid computer: we don't know that yet! is there a clean simple way to pull the outside cover off of that module so i can see the inner backside?

hard to remember when this hesitation started, but it seems like after the dealer appt., and even possibly after testing the cruise control function (which seemed to work normal) but had never been used since new. wonder if that is influencing this issue.

any thoughts on : multi-port fuel injection system/sequential multi-port fuel injection? seems to show up a lot in the fuse section, along with VSC, ABS, TRAC, etc.

 

[rwh963]

​

hesitation update: definitely recurring. cut out/cut in. during brief cut out, can push pedal to floor, no response. rpm's do decline during pause. no dash lights or other indicators. doesn't seem to occur during idle (P,N, or D). only during acceleration. use Mobil gas. fuel pump/filter?

 

[Jakeepoo3]

PULL CODES MANUALLY: may have to learn to do this. learning curve and time availability. any recommended video tutorials?

ordered a bottle of techron concentrate. never used it in this vehicle before. can't hurt, right?

wet corroded skid computer: we don't know that yet! is there a clean simple way to pull the outside cover off of that module so i can see the inner backside?

hard to remember when this hesitation started, but it seems like after the dealer appt., and even possibly after testing the cruise control function (which seemed to work normal) but had never been used since new. wonder if that is influencing this issue.

any thoughts on : multi-port fuel injection system/sequential multi-port fuel injection? seems to show up a lot in the fuse section, along with VSC, ABS, TRAC, etc.

Pull codes manually via DLC-
Turn a/c system off,
Jump terminals TC and CG (4, 13) with appropriate sized wire or something similar. Just DON'T f_ck up the terminals!! Turn ignition switch to on. Codes will be blinked at the check engine light, abs light, VSC light, possibly the cruise control light. Private message me if you need the complete check/clear code procedures and how to read the blink patterns. Turn ignition off and pull key, remove jumper from DLC.

Not sure about the cleaner you mentioned. To clean correctly remove the throttle body. Take your time and get it perfectly clean. Use a gentle cloth and toothbrush, don't scuff!!! Make sure you get the joints the throttle plate pivots on. At the same time clean the throttle body sensors, IAC, TPS. Remove and carefully clean MAF/intake air temp sensor also at the same time with electrical safe MAF cleaner. Clean their connectors too. Perform Learning Value Reset and Idle Learning procedures (MANDATORY).

Really weird your cruise control is working properly because it works through several sensors including the stop lamp switch received by the skid control ECU. Cruise control should be cancelled when the skid ECU receives brake stop signal.. I think the dealer just confused this sh1t even more and should have provided you with all the DTC codes not just the few on one circuit. F_ckery..

This information below should help you understand much better what you may be dealing with. All your issues seem to be related to the skid ECU. When you pull all the codes hopefully you will find one that is a single simple input to fix all your problems in one go and not need the new ECU.. this is all free.. private message me if you need procedure help..

 

[rwh963]

hmmm, always wanted to visit Arkansas (what does Arkansas even mean!)!

 

[rwh963]

also, dealer tech reset the TPMS light. a few days later it went back on. now it went back off! next day, back on. go figure.

 

[Jakeepoo3]

hmmm, always wanted to visit Arkansas (what does Arkansas even mean!)!

How did you figure that out! The natural state, my girl! I live on the edge of the Ozarks national forest too. Hundreds of miles of beautiful isolated trail. You should definitely visit and go wheeling. I pretty much live half my life out there in the 4runner. Who cares about the tire pressure system it's worthless. I bypassed that h0e to on/off switchable. I wouldn't do business with them anymore.

 

[rwh963]

been a while, very busy with LIFE. haven't gotten any closer to a solution. however, a couple of new problems.

recently, have noticed:

1) some times the ignition key chime continues after i pull the key out (when i open the door to exit).

2) been coming back to the vehicle to find the doors locked. i've been thinking i hit the fob in my pocket, etc. couple of days ago i was sitting in the car with the keys in my hand, does closed. doors locked themselves!

3) just started noticing that the full set of brake lights are now sometimes on with the ignition off and key removed. wtf! it will go off/on by itself.

just pulled the positive terminal, noticed a sticker that says moon foot, power windows etc need to be "normalized" after replacing battery. never did this before. any connection?

where are my experts??!

happy summer, btw.

 

[rwh963]

a bit weirder. brake lights are staying on after exiting car. turning on/off randomly. i went around and checked doors (indulge me). i slammed one door, lights went off. opened and slammed again, lights went on. opened and closed hard all doors, brake lights got jumpy while on. corrosion, short, ground issues? why would slamming the doors cause these reactions?

 

[rwh963]

August: still unresolved. ABS light has joined the dash light club. gonna have to conclude, esp. based on the ABS module case damage demonstrated in post #128 (or thereabouts) that it needs replacing. also noticed that the upper harness cover is missing (back then and now, not sure when that disappeared). hope the harness is in good shape.

started a new thread dealing with the replacement of just the module (rather than the whole master cylinder unit including the module. the module is a stand alone item, i hope i can replace it myself. please post advice on that to the new thread.

 

[rwh963]

interesting read, possibly helpful:Just a moment...

 

[rwh963]

also, looks like a useful document: Error Codes TOYOTA & SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - Wiring Diagrams