Brake rotor question
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Jeremy556
New member
Use some calipers to measure their thickness. I like OEM.
Front rotors: 32mm (new) 29mm (replace)
Rear rotors: 18mm (new) 16mm (replace)
Titanpat57
Senior Member
I think I had mine replaced around that point...NY salt did a hell of a job on the fronts, and they got replaced, but the rears were ok. As [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] stated, OEM was the ticket. $500 out the door for the entire job
Swarty
New member
Cheap as possible. Brakes rarely improve performance.
You won't get any real gains from drilled or slotted rotors unless you are really street driving harder than the 4runner is built for and a lot of aftermarket rotors weaken the material without much performance gain to show. I'd do OEM equivalent pads and have the rotors turned (probably all they need). Like Jeremy said just measure them before you get into it so you have time to get the rotors from someone other than Toyota (too spendy). I'd just get an OEM equivalent for everything and be done with it.
If you want to sink money into better braking performance get braided/hard lines all the way to the master cylinder and make sure your brake fluid is still good with those cheap test strips.
You won't get any real gains from drilled or slotted rotors unless you are really street driving harder than the 4runner is built for and a lot of aftermarket rotors weaken the material without much performance gain to show. I'd do OEM equivalent pads and have the rotors turned (probably all they need). Like Jeremy said just measure them before you get into it so you have time to get the rotors from someone other than Toyota (too spendy). I'd just get an OEM equivalent for everything and be done with it.
If you want to sink money into better braking performance get braided/hard lines all the way to the master cylinder and make sure your brake fluid is still good with those cheap test strips.
BlackWorksInc
New member
I would say from what I have researched, on an off-road vehicle you won't get the same benefits of venting gasses as you do on street cars. First off you're not going fast enough usually/braking hard enough to create the large quantities of gasses that say high performance cars would see. Second dirt, mud, ect. will fill up the holes/slots quicker than anything else. You're better off going with high quality rotors that are cast thick and strong than fancy ricer stuff.
As [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] stated you'll want t run a caliper on the rotors to see if they are above minimum turn to specifications. I would keep in mine that if there is a lip on your rotors that will affect your measurements so you need to get past the lip for accurate numbers. Then subtract about .5mm to account for cutting the rotor (you will most likely not cut them that much, but we're being conservative here and trying to account for what they will be by the time the next brake service is needed) if the resulting number is above your minimum turn to specification, I would not worry about replacing the rotors just yet unless they are heavily damaged.
As [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] stated you'll want t run a caliper on the rotors to see if they are above minimum turn to specifications. I would keep in mine that if there is a lip on your rotors that will affect your measurements so you need to get past the lip for accurate numbers. Then subtract about .5mm to account for cutting the rotor (you will most likely not cut them that much, but we're being conservative here and trying to account for what they will be by the time the next brake service is needed) if the resulting number is above your minimum turn to specification, I would not worry about replacing the rotors just yet unless they are heavily damaged.
