brake vibration

raylee011

New member
Hi,

I have a 2004 4Runner. I change the brake pad when it got 60,000 miles (did it myself, got the pad from dealer). I notice a brake vibration lately. My car is at 100,000 miles. I think the rotor is wrap. I having check the pad lately, but when I took my car in for oil change, they said my brake pad is at about 8/12 mm.

My question is, should I replace the rotor? If I do that, should I replace the pads as well? If I do, should I get it from the dealer? If not, any brand recommandation?

Thanks
 
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Hi,

I have a 2004 4Runner. I change the brake pad when it got 60,000 miles (did it myself, got the pad from dealer). I notice a brake vibration lately. My car is at 100,000 miles. I think the rotor is wrap. I having check the pad lately, but when I took my car in for oil change, they said my brake pad is at about 8/12 mm.

My question is, should I replace the rotor? If I do that, should I replace the pads as well? If I do, should I get it from the dealer? If not, any brand recommandation?

Thanks

Usually a vibration while braking means one or more of the rotors are warped, and need replacing. When replacing rotors, it is usually a good idea to replace the pads also. The dealer parts will work well, but there are many good aftermarket parts available that will work just fine. I use NAPA pads and rotors will good results. Also, check the front calipers closely, it is not uncommon to find one or more caliper pistons frozen (especially the inside ones), which can cause the rotors to heat up and warp. If any of the pistons do not return to the seated position easily, then you should replace the caliper also.
 
Vibration on Interstate 60-70 miles per hour

Here is my sad story…I have a 1999 4Runner with 120,000. About 1 year ago I had the brakes reworked, replace the rotors, reworking the calipers, and then 6 months ago, I had the Transmission rebuilt and the Torque Convertor replaced. Just after the Transmission and Torque Convertor rework, I started picking up a strong vibration at about 65-70 miles per hour. The vibration does not happen each time you drive the 4Runner. However, when and if it does the vibration gets so strong at times, I am required to pull off the road, to stop the vibration, and then it may go several days without happening again. The person at the transmission shop checked the U-joints and did not see any problem. They also said that it could be the engine missing when the transmission goes into lockup, so I had it tuned up; replacing the spark plugs and wires, and that did not fix the problem. About a month ago, a new problem started happening along with the vibration. The vibration starts, but it may or may not have what Just Brakes called fading brakes. The brake goes ½ down and at times, and you think the 4Runner will not stop. The vibration can occur and not have fading brakes, but I have noticed that after a vibration event , if you come off the interstate at 60 or 70 miles an hour with strong braking, you get some vibration from the front wheels. I took the 4Runner back to “Just Brakes” at two locations and they say nothing appears to be wrong with the brakes or the ABS system. Both places drove the 4Runner and said they could not create the same problem. They said it might be the tires separating, so I took it and had the tires balanced and rotated, and Discount Tires did not see any problem with the tires. However, it appears the vibration has moved more to the rear of the 4Runner, now that the front tires were moved to the back. But, it would seem to me if it is the tires, then I should not be getting the braking noise coming off the interstate, and one more thing on two occasions I have smelled something like burning rubber when this happen, but Just Brakes says no signs of heat on the brakes. Sorry for the long read.
 
can you not get the rotors re surfaced? i have done it before, i think about 13k miles ago, vibration significantly went down but i still get a little vib if i forgot where i was going to turn and had to put brakes on hard.
 
Actually more often than not warps don't warp.

It usually uneven deposition of pad material on the rotors. Because turning the rotors solves the problem whether it is warped rotors or pad deposition, most people think it's warped rotors since resurfacing rotors fixes the problem.

Pad material gets transferred onto the rotor as it wears. More material gets transferred when it gets heated. Then once the vehicle is stopped while the brakes are hot, and the pads are pressed up against the rotors, extra material gets placed on that one spot. As time goes on that one spot collects more and more material giving your warped rotor feeling.

See here for more details about what i'm talking about.
StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
 
If the rotors have the "deposits" that I'm reading about, is is possible to clean them without actually turning them?
 
If the rotors have the "deposits" that I'm reading about, is is possible to clean them without actually turning them?

Typically if the vibration occurs when the brakes are hot, it can be treated with an immediate aggressive bed-in(aka break in). It's a series of stops, one after another. Once the brakes cool with that pad deposit, it's usually game over.

Bed in procedure
StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades


BUT, there has been instances where an aggressive bed-in after the fact has helped get rid of the problem. I know of someone who decided to put Hawk HPS pads on his wifes car who doesn't drive aggressively at all. He ended up with vibrations, and noise. He went out and did the bed-in and all the issues went away. If the vehicle isn't driven aggressive enough, the initial bed-in layer of material gets worn away, and these issues can come up.
 

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