BrianSD_42 's Morimoto Mini D2S 3.0 Panorama Halo Retrofit DIY Journey

My retrofit in my MK3 Supra did the same thing with the high beam indicator not working. I bought that same thing linked above from ebay, but it didn't fix the issue. It's a resistance issue essentially if I remember correctly.
 
See, that speaks to exactly what was going through my mind: the indicator is failing because the passenger side H4 connector is open.

Has anyone else needed anything like this? I'm a little surprised TRS doesn't have something like this to include in the kit (or maybe they do, and I just didn't know to seek it out.)

I spoke to TRS and they said it was due to low resistance since the lights are powered directly from the battery. They will make a resistor that will solve this but they wanted $15 for it so I just went to ebay and looked for one.
 
Yeah, looking at parts, costs about the same to buy H4 plugs and appropriate resistors (except you have to buy them in pairs). Think I'll experiment a bit with the required resistance and just roll my own.
 
Yes. You assemble everything, check it, then make sure it is properly glued then put the glass back on and the clips then bake it the final time.

Be sure to clean the inside of the glass real well with alcohol swabs and clean cloth that doesn't have any fabric softener residue on it.

Hey, I know this is a pretty old thread, but I am going to basically be doing this same thing here in a month or two. Is it pretty easy to hook the halos up? And are they programed to just come on with the headlights or can you hook up them to a switch so they can be used as DRL? I don't have DRL on mine (it's a 96) so I'd have to wire them up differently. I'm just having trouble figuring out how they work
 
Run an entirely separate circuit for the halos, that's my advice. For the factory lighting, just use the adapters directly, don't try to splice into it.

I have a 97 with the lights connected to projectors using the wiring harness adapter.

For the halos I have an OEM switch on the dash the turns on the halos and my Amber running lights. Yes it is manual but hey it is a totally isolated circuit going back to my blue Sea fuse box. Makes troubleshooting way easier.

It isn't uncommon for TRS (or any) wiring harnesses to fail after 24 months and the less you've messed with the factory circuits the easier it will be to troubleshoot when it happens.
 
Run an entirely separate circuit for the halos, that's my advice. For the factory lighting, just use the adapters directly, don't try to splice into it.

I have a 97 with the lights connected to projectors using the wiring harness adapter.

For the halos I have an OEM switch on the dash the turns on the halos and my Amber running lights. Yes it is manual but hey it is a totally isolated circuit going back to my blue Sea fuse box. Makes troubleshooting way easier.

It isn't uncommon for TRS (or any) wiring harnesses to fail after 24 months and the less you've messed with the factory circuits the easier it will be to troubleshoot when it happens.

Awesome! That's pretty much what I was thinking of doing. You have the halos and separate running lights?
 
Yes the running lights (corner light bulb) circuit is stock and the aftermarket headlight HID wiring harness is tapped into there same stock circuit via plug n play harness. I don't have DRL (97) so it is manual lights on.

My halos (2 per light) and LED strips (1 per side) equal out to 6 parallel wires setup to turn on/off via a Toyota OEM switch I installed. This makes troubleshooting way way easier. Taping into stock headlight wiring for your halos is certainly possible but in the long run (think 2-3 years down road) it can be a pain.

Funny that this thread comes up today. I just finished my Mini D2S 4.0 retrofit. The halos were a PIA! See the Panorama shroud ... customer painted and I painted right over the little circles making it a tilted X. I think this looks a lot better.

:bat:
 

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These look really badass. I want a set of them but don't have the garage to build them in and I don't want to pay $600. What do you suggest?
 
I'd suggest you skip the halos and do it yourself, pay someone or find a friend with a garage. If I were to sell them it would be more like $800 because they were such a PIA. BUT I don't have time for this crap lol. My place has been a mess for 3 days now because of this endeavor. I've got a full time job.

If I ever have to do this again I'll skip the halos. Plus these orange are discontinued by TRS and the replacement model is more like a crappy yellow/orange not burnt orange like these.

I probably spent 1x time on the retrofit (painting, cutting, mounting, etc) and then 2x time messing with stupid halos lol. I'm so glad to be done!
 
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Hi Brian,

Thank you so much for the info! Have you had any issues with the projectors overheating because you taped up all open areas to eliminate light leakage? I am in the middle of a retrofit and I noticed that as soon as I taped up a projector, it started to run a lot hotter.

Also (you replied to this issue in another thread of mine), do you think there is any issue with grinding the halos a tad to reduce their OD? I figured it should be fine as long as I don’t touch the actual LEDs?
 
Hi Brian,

Thank you so much for the info! Have you had any issues with the projectors overheating because you taped up all open areas to eliminate light leakage?
---> I only did that on the Mini D2S v3 retrofit, which I then sold. It seemed to work just fine. My most recent one I did not seal it up. The most recent v4.0 picture above is the only tape used.

Also (you replied to this issue in another thread of mine), do you think there is any issue with grinding the halos a tad to reduce their OD? I figured it should be fine as long as I don’t touch the actual LEDs?
--> what is OD? I wouldn't cut the actual halo if there was another option.
 
Also (you replied to this issue in another thread of mine), do you think there is any issue with grinding the halos a tad to reduce their OD? I figured it should be fine as long as I don’t touch the actual LEDs?

what is OD? I wouldn't cut the actual halo if there was another option.

I think he means the shroud. I ground my shrouds on the bottom to fit the flat bottom of the reflector housing. I have a pic of that in my thread #nohijack
 
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---> I only did that on the Mini D2S v3 retrofit, which I then sold. It seemed to work just fine. My most recent one I did not seal it up. The most recent v4.0 picture above is the only tape used.


--> what is OD? I wouldn't cut the actual halo if there was another option.

OD - outside diameter. I will try grinding the inside of the shroud to increase clearance.

Do you have a picture of what your 4.0 projector looks like without the shroud?
 
As far as I've seen there is only one TYC model type for 99+ style aftermarket (eg not OEM) "OEM replacement" headlights.
 

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