Brillos Builds

[brillo_76]

2 new patches in the frame. Along with a good coat of fiberglass resin on the rockers.

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[brillo_76]

You guys keep saying nothing is left, but you're still running the original rear lower control arm mounts!

Yup.. You can beef up the Lower control arms once they start getting thin.
Same with the body mounts and frame. I really just wanted to see how long steel lasted just plating over.. Now I know about 8 to 9 years without any metal treatment in my environment. Tha'ts good information for me to know.

 

[brillo_76]

How it started? How it's coming along. This is another way to thicken brackets without replacing them. I am grinding it down so it's thicker and stronger then it was.

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[brillo_76]

Here is what happens when a Pinon bearing and gear fail.... All caused by PO not checking gear grease. Went dry.... Could it be fixed?? Yes just not worth it...:/

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The Pinon shaft is in 2 pieces. Along with the ring gear missing teeth.

 

[brillo_76]

I don't recommend cutting both sides at once. However, this is a rare photo with both sides of a framerail gone. . I want to plate the inside of the outer rail first then plate the inner rail.

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[brillo_76]

Welded the outer plate in today. Ran out of welding gas. Looking a little better. Steel back in.

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[brillo_76]

The upper rail need stiffen. So I welded a 1/8 angle back in the top rail.

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[brillo_76]

Then I cut the bottom side off to replace the skid bolt nut

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[brillo_76]

Now I am deciding if I want to stiffen the bottom. Before I put the inner plate back on the frame.

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[brillo_76]

Decided to put an angle on the bottom too. Really stiffened up the bottom rail. So it was a good call. Made some slight progress tonight

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[brillo_76]

Finished the drivers rear behind gas tank. Replaced the rear line with a nickle copper one. Put the gas tank back in so I can move the 4 runner again....

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[JBurt]

I bet that feels good

 

[brillo_76]

I bet that feels good

Yes only one mistake... I put a little plate in the gas tank bracket....Only to find out that gas tank just fits there.. Even a 20 or 18gauage plate is too thick.. So I have to ream the gas tank 3 bolts a little.. Minor but an oppsy. I was glad to get that brake line changed again.. I put an OEM brake line in 2017... It was done again rotten in a few spots so it doesn't pay to use OEM brakes lines in the rust belt..

How I attached was self tappers and zip ties with a screw hole in the end.

 

[brillo_76]

Shit box (1997 limited) is getting a the 13WE tundra brake upgrade. I personally prefer this size of caliper because they can use the same brake size not like the 13WL which has the larger back plate but if you look the pad material is just about the same size. I believe this is for more air flow to cool down the pads. The 13WL are longer calipers so you have to trim the dust shield to fit. The 13WE will only have to trim the dust shield is the 15 inch wheels. When 16 inch wheels it should fit without trimming. For me and my needs, the wider rotor is all that is required to keep the rotors from rotor.

Here is a photo of the standard caliper and rotor

 

[brillo_76]

I have the passenger side done. I would have had the Driver side completed as well but someone thought it was a good idea to send a 13WM (stock 3rd gen re mfg caliper ) into a 13WE box.. Probably someone on the forum...

 

[poleclimber63]

Yes only one mistake... I put a little plate in the gas tank bracket....Only to find out that gas tank just fits there.. Even a 20 or 18gauage plate is too thick.. So I have to ream the gas tank 3 bolts a little.. Minor but an oppsy. I was glad to get that brake line changed again.. I put an OEM brake line in 2017... It was done again rotten in a few spots so it doesn't pay to use OEM brakes lines in the rust belt..

How I attached was self tappers and zip ties with a screw hole in the end.

Looks good! I was under my 4r doing a good Spring clean, and I noticed that the hard lines for the fuel and brakes were not looking good. You mentioned you replaced a brake line with OEM in 2017 but had to replace it again. What did you go with, and do you have any suggestions wrt fuel lines?
Thanks in advance!

 

[brillo_76]

Looks good! I was under my 4r doing a good Spring clean, and I noticed that the hard lines for the fuel and brakes were not looking good. You mentioned you replaced a brake line with OEM in 2017 but had to replace it again. What did you go with, and do you have any suggestions wrt fuel lines?
Thanks in advance!

My fuel lines are good... thankfully. I just make them out of nickle copper 3/16 tubing and use stainless steel flare nuts. You can buy the nuts on amazon but this does require a flare tool to make the flare. You can buy nickle copper lines in varies lengths i mostly by 25 ft spools of it. Once I switched to making my own lines, I never have to worry about them going bad again.

You can still purchase the oem lines from a dealer. However, you can see from this that they don't last long in the rust environment


You will need a flare tool to create the flare on the end of the brake line. Toyota brake tube ends need a double flare, also known as an inverted flare. If a single flare is done the brake lines connections will leak. :-(

 

[brillo_76]

This is for [MENTION=81614]poleclimber63[/MENTION]. These are the stainless steel flare nuts

The Stop Shop Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fittings for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm (Pack of 10)


The Stop Shop 25 Ft. Roll/Coil of 3/16" (.028" Wall) Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing

This is the flaring tool I am after....

Mastercool 72485-PRC Silver/Blue Universal Hydraulic Flaring Tool Set (3/8"&1/2" Transmission Cooling Line Die/Adapter Sets Plus Tube Cutter)

This is what I currently have..
Professional Brake Line Flaring Tool- 45 Degree Set - Single, Bubble, and Double Flares

You can use different flaring tools if you wish provided it produces an inverted flare.. I want the Hydraulic one so i can use it under and on the vehicle. My current one has to be used in a vice. :-(


I hope this information helps others as well..

 

[19963.4lsr5]

This is for [MENTION=81614]poleclimber63[/MENTION]. These are the stainless steel flare nuts

The Stop Shop Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fittings for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm (Pack of 10)


The Stop Shop 25 Ft. Roll/Coil of 3/16" (.028" Wall) Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing

This is the flaring tool I am after....

Mastercool 72485-PRC Silver/Blue Universal Hydraulic Flaring Tool Set (3/8"&1/2" Transmission Cooling Line Die/Adapter Sets Plus Tube Cutter)

This is what I currently have..
Professional Brake Line Flaring Tool- 45 Degree Set - Single, Bubble, and Double Flares

You can use different flaring tools if you wish provided it produces an inverted flare.. I want the Hydraulic one so i can use it under and on the vehicle. My current one has to be used in a vice. :-(


I hope this information helps others as well..

My friend has the hydraulic one and I borrow it more than I should.


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[brillo_76]

My friend has the hydraulic one and I borrow it more than I should.


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Yes if one is to buy one you might as well go hydraulic and I don't blame you they work extremely well. It really helps having the ability to work under the vehicle vs on a bench.