Broken CV axle

hntz4x4

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So I broke the end of the CV axle shaft off on the passenger side. Is there any way to get that out? Or am I going to have to replace the intermediate shaft?

I'm contemplating doing a SAS, but wanted to get truck back in working order until I can make that all happen.
 

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You could try a drill and tap to get a bolt threaded in there and pull it out. Then suck the shavings out with a shop vac attachment. It's worth a try before you pull the whole diff. That looks like its in there pretty far but a 1/4 or 5/16 drill and tap might reach. Was that a Toyota or aftermarket axle?
 
You probably will have to pull the diff out.

Just by judging the polished surfaces, it looks like an aftermarket. What size tires are you running?
 
Do I have to pull that tube off to get the intermediate shaft out? I got the big snap ring out. (from an illustration I saw, there is supposed to be a smaller snap ring, but I don't see one). It slides out about 1/4-1/2 inch than stops.

I'm running 35's. It was an auto parts store CV.
 

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Do I have to pull that tube off to get the intermediate shaft out? I got the big snap ring out. (from an illustration I saw, there is supposed to be a smaller snap ring, but I don't see one). It slides out about 1/4-1/2 inch than stops.

I'm running 35's. It was an auto parts store CV.

I haven't ever been into either of my 4runner's front diff. but other open diff's I have been into have a hole that goes completely thru. If anyone can confirm that, you can just pull the other CV and beat that piece out with a good size drift punch and BFH.
 
I would probably pull the diff just for the sake of flushing material out, god knows what got in there, and it would probably make working on the shaft way easier too. If I recall correctly they come out fairly easy - it should at least, front diffs usually do. Should just be the CVs, 3 mounting bolts and the front driveline holding it in.
 
My service manual shows a snap ring on the inside that is probably holding it to the clutch hub and preventing the intermediate shaft from sliding out. I'll snap a picture and post it but this would be on a 97 with A.D.D.
 
I think timmy did a video ( of course) of pulling a front diff....they were doing other things to it....so might have to look through his list.
 
Funny, I found the video Timmy did, its with my rig. I bought that 4runner from Fred a couple years ago.

QUOTE=3bears;3637042]I think timmy did a video ( of course) of pulling a front diff....they were doing other things to it....so might have to look through his list.[/QUOTE]
 
Funny, I found the video Timmy did, its with my rig. I bought that 4runner from Fred a couple years ago.
That's pretty cool. That's an awesome rig. I highly recommend taking the extra time and unbolting the driver side engine mount and jacking the engine up about 1" when you remove the diff. I just slipped a small piece of plywood between the engine mount and bracket so I could get the jack out of the way. Timmy talks about doing this in the video description and it does make the diff way easier to remove.
 
You probably have to remove the ADD actuator to pull the axle stub shaft out like that. I'm not sure if you have access, but you might also be able to remove the axle tube instead of the whole diff.

-Charlie
 
3rd gen front cv axles.

Have you been able to get the splined shaft out of the diff yet?
I've had that type of break before. I ended up getting a long drill bit from one of the tractor supply stores and a small slide hammer from Harbor Freight. The end of the slide hammer had 1/4x20 threads. So I used the long drill bit to drill into the piece of shaft that was stuck in the diff, tapped it with a 1/4x20 tap, then screwed the slide hammer into the shaft. A quick tap with the slide hammer pulled it right out. The shaft was surprisingly soft and easy to drill from what I remember.
 
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Did you pull your whole diff out to replace that intermediate shaft?

3rd gen front cv axles.

Have you been able to get the splined shaft out of the diff yet?
I've had that type of break before. I ended up getting a long drill bit from one of the tractor supply stores and a small slide hammer from Harbor Freight. The end of the slide hammer had 1/4x20 threads. So I used the long drill bit to drill into the piece of shaft that was stuck in the diff, tapped it with a 1/4x20 tap, then screwed the slide hammer into the shaft. A quick tap with the slide hammer pulled it right out. The shaft was surprisingly soft and easy to drill from what I remember.
 
If I'm looking at spending around $600 for CVJ axles, would it be worth while buying this manual hub conversion kit?

ORS Manual Hub Conversion Kit - Products - Off Road Solutions
Yeah, that looks like a pretty good kit. I think the main advantage with manual hubs is that it saves the CV boots on a lifted rig though. You might get slightly better MPG and a little less wear and tear on the axle too. But if I was wheeling hard enough to break axles with 35s I think I'd put that $1400 towards a solid axle swap for sure.
 
Larger wheel diameter means too much strain on the driveline. The weakest spot is the outer CV joint but it fails when the wheel is turned to a side. Still there are numerous instances where CV's and even rear axles snapping due to larger tires.
 

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