Broken Driveshaft, snapped shocks, bent links, etc..

thats nuts!

Can you get a pic of the front bumper? Ive been thinking for a while that my ODL bumper would do the same thing if I really needed to use it. Not a good feeling to have...

I think the ODL bumper is quite strong. I broke a recovery strap after doing multiple yanks on a 4Runner through snow. After about the 7th or 8th running start yank, i heard a really loud bang and thought i tore something off the bumper or frame. Turns out the strap exploded :lol:
 
lol, yay!
Just double checking its the tacoma version, I need the eyes up top not the studs.

Yep you got the Tacoma 5150's. Also, i wasn't sure if you needed the standard Bilstein 5/8 bushing or the larger 3/4 Toyota bushing in the top so i swapped the bottoms to 3/4 and left the tops as 5/8's and threw the 3/4's in the box in case you need them.

Let me know if you have any questions or issues with them!
-Dylan
 
If you plan on wheeling with those 5150's get limiting straps and carry 2 spare shocks.

I broke both of mine the same day, first time they had been off road with less than 5k miles on the shocks.

On one shock the top stud snapped off, very easily, clean break.

The other shock... the damn things rotate around all the time, no matter how tight they are they rotate. Everyone I have talked to says the same thing. And when it compresses if that reservoir hits the frame it will blow right off, as mine did.

On the other hand, the ride on the road is freaking great! Better than any other rear shock I have ever had, but the durability isn't there IMHO.

Not trying to bash your purchase, just a word of warning :biggrin2:
 
Right now we are only doing the adjustable uppers with the heims. If we decide to make any non adjustable ones and/or with bushings, I'll post them up.
I'm going to be making my own anyway, but thanks.

Wow man, sorry about this whole situation... we talked already over PM but I wanted to mention: Sorry about that whole bumper thing.

I was pretty happy with my 4xInnovations rock sliders, they can make those it seems, but wtf are they thinking with these bumpers? Your recovery point bent the bumper enough to hit the flare and fender? What do they expect the bumper to do in an actual offroad situation?

I hope you guys come to some sort of resolution, the idiots who made it should take it back and give you your money. You paid for a real front bumper and you shouldn't get some flimsy/useless/damaging/improperly fitting ripoff.

Go for a Shrockworks and I guarantee you won't be dissatisfied. I didn't install the extra end plates for the frame (waiting on a winch), but it's taken a few hits and pulled a few vehicles without anything other than typical frame flex. Very little clearance between the bumper and fender/flare. I nailed a rock right at the edge of the bumper closest to the tire with no more than slight flare contact, only enough to scratch the powdercoat (same happened with my CBI, happens to all bumpers it seems).

Good luck dude, seriously, this is some messed up **** and no company should be making bumpers if they're doing it this poorly. I say compensation for the fender damage and flare should be accounted for, it was their shoddy work that messed them up...
Thanks. Ill be able to update about the bumper in a few days..

thats nuts!

Can you get a pic of the front bumper? Ive been thinking for a while that my ODL bumper would do the same thing if I really needed to use it. Not a good feeling to have...
Ill post pics by the end of the week.

Yep you got the Tacoma 5150's. Also, i wasn't sure if you needed the standard Bilstein 5/8 bushing or the larger 3/4 Toyota bushing in the top so i swapped the bottoms to 3/4 and left the tops as 5/8's and threw the 3/4's in the box in case you need them.

Let me know if you have any questions or issues with them!
-Dylan
Sounds good, thanks Dylan!

That's why I skipped the other cheaper online stores and went to you guys.

If you plan on wheeling with those 5150's get limiting straps and carry 2 spare shocks.

I broke both of mine the same day, first time they had been off road with less than 5k miles on the shocks.

On one shock the top stud snapped off, very easily, clean break.

The other shock... the damn things rotate around all the time, no matter how tight they are they rotate. Everyone I have talked to says the same thing. And when it compresses if that reservoir hits the frame it will blow right off, as mine did.

On the other hand, the ride on the road is freaking great! Better than any other rear shock I have ever had, but the durability isn't there IMHO.

Not trying to bash your purchase, just a word of warning :biggrin2:
It rotates freely all the time? You cant tighen it down and get it to stay? I'll just zip tie it if I have to.

And thanks for the heads up. I was doing a bunch of flexing the axle and measuring this morning before I ordered and looked at all the different sizes of 5150's. Longer bump stops and limit straps are on the list.
 
Yea, I wouldn't say it rotates freely, but I got it really tight, the bushing was squashed pretty well. And you could still twist it with force, and I guess overtime it turned itself so the reservoir smashed into the frame when I flexed it.
 
Total Suck to have that happen. but since it did and your going to build your own links have you considered the ford tank swap and really get the rear geometry right or are you gonna just reinforce the stock locations and links and call it good. double triangulated 4 link would look wicked sexy under there. Just saying:trophy:
 
It rotates freely all the time? You cant tighen it down and get it to stay? I'll just zip tie it if I have to.

And thanks for the heads up. I was doing a bunch of flexing the axle and measuring this morning before I ordered and looked at all the different sizes of 5150's. Longer bump stops and limit straps are on the list.

Since you have the eye mount on the top, your shock body won't be able to rotate like the stem mount. I ran the 5150's on my 3rd gen for a while. I never had a issue with the body rotating but i did crank down on them quite a bit. I also ended up mounting the shocks outboard like you did.
 
Total Suck to have that happen. but since it did and your going to build your own links have you considered the ford tank swap and really get the rear geometry right or are you gonna just reinforce the stock locations and links and call it good. double triangulated 4 link would look wicked sexy under there. Just saying:trophy:
Whoa there, just the upper links thanks. lol
I have no plans for a ford tank swap.

Since you have the eye mount on the top, your shock body won't be able to rotate like the stem mount. I ran the 5150's on my 3rd gen for a while. I never had a issue with the body rotating but i did crank down on them quite a bit. I also ended up mounting the shocks outboard like you did.
Oh I see.



--------------


News on the drive shaft.

I took it in to a local drive shaft specialist shop yesterday. He took it apart today and called me. He said that the inside of the slip yoke was damaged and would need to be replaced as well. I also had a sheared off zirk fitting on the rear U-joint that I already knew was like that from hitting the gas tank skid..

So with that I am having him build me a new custom drive shaft designed to fit the lifted height of the vehicle and be balanced perfectly. I am hoping I can eliminate some 65+ vibes from this as well.

:guitar2:

In other news, the lower mounts from the shocks are still stuck on there like mud. So I may have to brake out the Sawzall and cut them off or something.
 
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3'' of lift and you need a custom drive shaft, or since it already needs to be replace you might as well do it?
Also if you don't mind me asking whats that going to set you back?
 
So with that I am having him build me a new custom drive shaft designed to fit the lifted height of the vehicle and be balanced perfectly. I am hoping I can eliminate some 65+ vibes from this as well.

On a slight side note, vibration about 65 sounds like the issue I used to have, does the whole car vibrate like a massage chair? If so the driveline is at too big of an angle due the front being lifted so much. Not telling you to lower the front because that sounds like blasphemy but it did help with any higher speed vibrations I was having.
 
F-ing Toyotas, I'll tell ya. You should just send that piece of sh*t to me and I'll give you one of mine. It's the right thing to do. :)

Seriously though, good luck with the repairs. Since the rear control arm mount broke, is there any type of long travel kit available for these? Or is it worth fabing something up? The upside to breaking sh*t is that it gives you an excuse to improve.

I'm thinking about telling my wife that I broke my supercharger and need to buy a new one...
 

How are the repairs coming along????

I know you got the new shocks mounted.

New built driveshaft is done, picking it up tomorrow. Got in the new links from dirtco, Im going to use them as temps while I build some .125 wall HREW links.

New shocks are in and installed.

125_1307.jpg~original



Thats all I am gonna talk about for now.
 
OK, the new driveshaft is in. I used a local company called 'Albuquerque Driveshaft and Axle' (what a creative name, lol)

Long story short the rear U-joint was toast with a sheared zerk, the outer slip and the spline shaft inside (excuse my ignorance of the terminology) were all damaged. So I had him build me a new lengthened driveshaft for the lift. The only part that was reused was the double-cardigan up front.

The total was a very reasonable $240. I would highly recommend him in to anyone in the Abq area. Robert is an awesome dude, showed me around his shop, met his super friendly pit bull, all around cool dude.


photobucket-2908-1344648482829.jpg~original


photobucket-6454-1344648513072.jpg~original


photobucket-3247-1344648549944.jpg~original








After everything was in, I went for a little test drive around the neighborhood. Everything worked properly, it was good to hear that supercharger whine again :D. The rear new 5150s are so AWESOME!! I am 100% happy I decided to upgrade, its a very noticeable change over the 5125s. The front feels so barbaric in comparison, coilovers are high on the list now.
 
Could this have possibly been caused by remounting the shocks in a different position?

Edit: Nevermind ... read all the way through.
 
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You get a chance to get it over 65? I had a new shaft built as well, from end to end using 1310 joints but I still get some vibes above 65. Im wondering if its because of the pinion angle at the rear axle. Ive eliminated just about every other possibility but I am unsure just how much the rear joint can be off from 0 before it starts to cause a rumble.
 
You get a chance to get it over 65? I had a new shaft built as well, from end to end using 1310 joints but I still get some vibes above 65. Im wondering if its because of the pinion angle at the rear axle. Ive eliminated just about every other possibility but I am unsure just how much the rear joint can be off from 0 before it starts to cause a rumble.

I got it to 40 and it was smooth. Ill hit 65 tonight though.
 

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