Build Thread

[josh.bunch]

Anyone want to guess what I will be doing this weekend?






Plus I have an inner & outer tie rods in the drivers side, swaybars, drivers door lock actuator, and a few other things I will try to get around to. Wife is out of town for the weekend and this is just how I party. arty:
I'll probably get fed up 1/2 way in and go sight in my new scope on my AR. Stress relief. :AK47:

 

[fightman80]

Can't wait to see the mods installed man!

 

[1bad4r]

Now you can yank put those spacers and sell them to me

 

[josh.bunch]

Now you can yank put those spacers and sell them to me

In the mail this morning...hope you enjoy.


Here are a few pictures....

 

[1bad4r]

Looks good man and thanks I will

 

[Nelsonmd]

So it was posted a while ago, but no one seemed to notice it... I don't think drilling a new hole for the panhard was a good idea. I guess you realized that somewhat when you got it aligned, but it should go back together the way it came apart.

When I did my lift, the panhard didn't line up afterwards, and I had to jack the sides a bit to inch it into position. I think I also bounced the cab around a bit at the same time just enough to sneak the pin in.

 

[Rc4r]

I have 891s and the rear sits at 41" and 40" in the front. I haven't done any hauling or anything to make them sag though

 

[josh.bunch]

So it was posted a while ago, but no one seemed to notice it... I don't think drilling a new hole for the panhard was a good idea. I guess you realized that somewhat when you got it aligned, but it should go back together the way it came apart.

When I did my lift, the panhard didn't line up afterwards, and I had to jack the sides a bit to inch it into position. I think I also bounced the cab around a bit at the same time just enough to sneak the pin in.

I didn't do it because I thought it was a good idea, it was done out if necessity since I had to pick my wife up from the airport and had to get the car back together. Working solo is not always fun. I wrestled with it for 3 hours before I gave up and drilled a hole.

I have put 8K miles on it since I drilled the new hole and it never slips. I ordered a panhard drop kit from Toytec and it has been sitting in my garage for 4 months. I just haven't had time to find a local welder.

I realize its not ideal but it works, and I have the best intentions to correct it. I called around last weekend and got welding quotes but no one could get to it for at least 2 weeks so screw me.

 

[josh.bunch]

Adding this to the pile of other parts in my garage. Looking to make a good dent in it this weekend.

Where is a good place to pick up the wire mesh for the deckplate and also the tube for the IRS mod?

 

[Hepar]

Coming together real nice!

I got my tube from a local aluminum pipe company. They had the exact diameter pipe, so no need for bending. I think most people will buy a 2.5" pipe and have the outer rim stretched to 2.75".

 

[josh.bunch]

Coming together real nice!

I got my tube from a local aluminum pipe company. They had the exact diameter pipe, so no need for bending. I think most people will buy a 2.5" pipe and have the outer rim stretched to 2.75".

Hopefully this will fix the 'Taco Lean'


Also one more question on the ISR mod... I have seen at least two of you that have reconnected the tube the the new pipe...


But is seems most of you have done this...


That is the function of the tube going into the air intake? Is it a sensor? Is it necessary? Are there pros/cons to leaving it or removing it. Sorry for the possibly ignorant question but that is why I love this forum. A lot of smarter people than me roam these pages. :nerd:

 

[Hepar]

I think our engine configuration is a little different. No need for the added tee. I just did this:

Can't remember what the exact function of the line was. I believe it was a vacuum line of some sorts. Either way, if you attach it to that point on the intake manifold that isn't being used, it's still serving the same function. Just down the intake line a bit.

 

[josh.bunch]

I think our engine configuration is a little different. No need for the added tee. I just did this:

Ill take a picture of my actual engine and compare later this evening. Thanks for the help.

 

[Hepar]

Ill take a picture of my actual engine and compare later this evening. Thanks for the help.

Cool. And just to clarify, by ours I meant yours and mine. The 96-99's are slightly different (I could be off on the years though).

 

[josh.bunch]

Cool. And just to clarify, by ours I meant yours and mine. The 96-99's are slightly different (I could be off on the years though).

I understood you. The first picture is from a 99 and the second is from a 2000. and according to this page 96-98 is different than 99-02.

That is the write up I'm using since I couldn't find one on here. I read through it 2 times and couldn't find him addressing it.


On and unrelated note...I liked your sliders so much I ordered me some today. Thanks 4xInnovations. I went with DOM over HREW, bc I am paranoid about that sort of stuff. When I order my bumper I'll go HREW since it wont take the same beating. They had them in stock so they will ship them out tomorrow. :guitar2::reddance::drummer:arty:

 

[Hepar]

On and unrelated note...I liked your sliders so much I ordered me some today. Thanks 4xInnovations. I went with DOM over HREW, bc I am paranoid about that sort of stuff. When I order my bumper I'll go HREW since it wont take the same beating. They had them in stock so they will ship them out tomorrow.

Nice! Did you know that the metal needs to age for at least 6-8 months before you should weld them on? At least that's what I told myself.

 

[blcktpgsr]

Nice! Did you know that the metal needs to age for at least 6-8 months before you should weld them on? At least that's what I told myself.

Ha, was that partly your reason for not having your sliders welded on soon as you got them?, you had to wait..........and made us all wait practically a year later??:bravo::lmao:

 

[josh.bunch]

Nice! Did you know that the metal needs to age for at least 6-8 months before you should weld them on? At least that's what I told myself.

Ya that is what I heard... sliders are like fine wine and cheeses. The longer you wait the better they are.

Here is that picture I told you I would take:

 

[Hepar]

Ha, was that partly your reason for not having your sliders welded on soon as you got them?, you had to wait..........and made us all wait practically a year later??:bravo::lmao:

Yeah. Most people don't know about that rule and weld them on WAY too early. Suckers.

Ya that is what I heard... sliders are like fine wine and cheeses. The longer you wait the better they are.

Here is that picture I told you I would take:

You have the setup that requires a little tee if you want to relocate that hose. Actually, I have the one that I was going to use on mine that I didn't end up needing. PM me your address if you want it and I'll send it to ya free of charge.

 

[josh.bunch]

I had a busy day yesterday. Nothing too exciting, most of it maintenance. Here is what I had hoped to get accomplished...

1. Spark plugs
2. Ignition Coils
3. Wires
4. Deckplate Mod
5. Both swaybars
6. Swaybar bushings
7. Inner & Outer Tie Rods on the passengers side. (drivers side done 2-3 months ago.
8. 10mm spacer(fix Taco Lean)
9. ISR Mod

Big Plans

Old Plugs

New Plugs

New Ignition Coils. (My old ones seemed to be fine, I just figured with such high mileage it couldn't hurt. Plus I was messing around on RockAuto and found some on sale for $23 each. Normally they were $62...just couldn't pass that up. I think I'll keep the Toyota ones since they are still good. Just in case something goes wrong with the new ones.)

Deckplate

All put back together...


(Didn't get to the ISR Mod. I'm having a hell of a time finding a metal tube that fits. I may have to find a muffler shop that can stretch and fit one for me. Is that what most of you guys have done?)