Building the Black Pearl...

jstim

New member
Figured I would get this build thread started before I forget what I might have done, even though I can't even see the finish line quite yet. Every time I think I am closer to the end, I end up finding something else to do.

What has been done.

Exterior/Wheels/Tires/Brakes
Removed the running boards
SCS Matte Black SR8 16's
General AT2 265/75/16
Wheeler's Off-Road Brake lines
13WL Tundra Brake Upgrade
Shrockworks front bumper with baja designs led fogs
Shrockworks rear bumper w/swing out and jerry can holder
Shrockworks full skids
Full length roof rack courtesy [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION]

Interior/Electronics
Alpine CDE-HD149BT with the XM antenna
Kicker CS65 6 1/2" in the front doors
Kicker CS5 5 1/4" in the back doors
LED dome light replacements
Uniden 520XL CB w/3ft Firestik
LED Lighting in the dash

Under the Hood
New OEM radiator/hoses/thermostat
Toyota Red long life coolant
New B&M 70264 Transmission cooler
New idle air control valve
new PCV valve
new plugs and wires
New rear sway bar bushings

Suspension
Icon CDCV 2.5 coilover
Icon CDCV rears
OME 861
Built right UCAs
Sway bar end links [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION])
New Lower ball joints (OEM)
Outer Tie Rod ends (OEM)
New Sway Bar Bushings Front/Rear
Steering Rack Bushing Kit
Complete rear end rebuild

Mods to come in the future
HID Headlight Retrofit
Trans flush/filter and fluid change to Royal Purple
White Knuckle off-road sliders
Scan Gauge II

Maintenance
Timing belt/water pump/thermostat-250,413
OEM plugs/wires/PCV valve-251,413
Head gasket-251,413
Rear main seal-251,413
 

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We actually like the modified pictures of the truck more than the stock photos on this website. Nice truck BTW.
 
This is the first change, with the radio going in. Soldered the adapter up to the radio, plugged it all in, and its been not too short of awesome since I did it. Sounds great!

Edit: with the new HU
 

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Putting the SS 1.2 on was actually pretty easy and straight forward. I ran into a few hiccups along the way, but nothing too out of control. Broke the front sway bar end links at the threads, had to just slightly bend back the piece of metal on the lower control arms, and replace the bolts that went through the bottom of the coilover because one was bent the other flattened out on the end.
 

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I ended up having to replace the radiator because after the SS 1.2 install, I was in my garage at home, going to install the B&M 70264. It was a very lucky day for me because I was probably as close as you can be to a pink milkshake without actually having to have it.
 

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Its currently sitting in the garage, with a misfire on #6, plugs and wires on the way....hopefully that will make it right.
 
So I did some maintenance tonight since cylinder #6 has been having a misfire. Changed the plugs, and the wires since thats what threw the check engine light. Well its all changed the check engine light is still on, but it doesn't smoke really at all at initial start up. It used to smoke a little until it got warmed up. Now it smoked for 15-20 seconds and stopped shortly after startup.

I had noticed that there was a bit of oil in between the airbox and the throttle body. I have read that some say its blowback, like the piston rings are starting to go because the engine is worn? Any thoughts on this? Heres what we are looking at, and where I am seeing a lot of this oil at.
 

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I don't think you have the right plugs. Are those quad electrode plugs the old ones or new ones? Also, get Denso plugs. People have reported here that Bosch plugs cause a CEL.
 
welcome to the forum.

You will want to use OEM/Toyota plugs and wires on these trucks. Not to get into a huge debate or anything but just know that for anything "spark related" you will definitely want to go Toyota parts only. Lots and lots of threads can be found where peoples 4Runners are running bad because they put platinum plugs in their 4Runner.
 
welcome to the forum.

You will want to use OEM/Toyota plugs and wires on these trucks. Not to get into a huge debate or anything but just know that for anything "spark related" you will definitely want to go Toyota parts only. Lots and lots of threads can be found where peoples 4Runners are running bad because they put platinum plugs in their 4Runner.

Through the current process of things being replaced, I am a huge OEM fan. It runs right now, not missing, but now I have the throttle body torn off, the IAC valve off, PVC valve on order too. I am hoping that corrects the idle issue. Then going to try to grab a Scan Gauge 2 and hopefully get myself on track.

Someday I will get my lights retrofitted like yours too [MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION]
 
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Also look at the ultragauge. It's cheaper and displays more gauges on the screen at once (anywhere between 4 and 8, depending on your preference).
 
Also look at the ultragauge. It's cheaper and displays more gauges on the screen at once (anywhere between 4 and 8, depending on your preference).

I have looked at the Ultragauge, but it doesn't show the trans temps that I am aware of. I would like to have that as I live in North Carolina right now, and it gets hot.

Do you have the Ultra, what do you like about it?
 
So, parts are in, work has been CRAZY!!! I will be trying to get those parts on there today/tonight. On the list, new idle air control valve, gasket, and PCV valve. Going to ask a dumb question....anyone have any pictures of the PCV valve with it all put together? Or where exactly its at?
 
Tonight I replaced the IAC valve, the PCV valve. I no longer have the idle dropping to 4-500 rpms and dying. Now its idling high at 1700 rpms.... I hope someone can give me some idea of what it is......:boom:



Edit..I ran it for 15 minutes. Drove it a couple miles up the road, restarted it and wham...better than ever!!
 
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We actually like the modified pictures of the truck more than the stock photos on this website. Nice truck BTW.

Thanks...I will get it out and get some current pictures up soon...weather has been awful, and theres been a lot of maintenance going on just to get it running.
 

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