Calibrating Torque Wrench

UTEP

New member
Hi,

I found a 10-100lb Matco torque wrench for $100 that appears to be in good shape and clicks at assumed specs. Could easily be off.

Do you guys calibrate your own or find local shops or send off???

They are always able to be calibrated right? A broken one would not have an adjustable range of clicks even if off calibration right? How else could I determine its worth?

My tools got ripped a couple years back. While I was doing more wrenching back then my bro-in-law had a shop and access to the Snap-On truck etc… Here in El Paso I have not been able to locate the Snap-On guy and can only get referred to on-line sources….

Thanks,

UTEP
 
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Don't just settle for a 100lb max.. get something that goes higher. Hell, I've had an advanced auto torque wrench for over 3 years now and it's never failed me once. Unless you plan on using it every single day I wouldn't splurge for anything with a expensive name.
 
Keep in mind that a torque wrench is most accurate, in the middle of it's range. So the prospective Matco, would be most accurate at approx. 55 ft.-lbs.

This is also why a professional mechanic will have several torque wrenches, to accurately cover the torque range they need.

How often a torque wrench should be calibrated, depends on who you ask. A busy shop might calibrate theirs as often as once a month, or maybe only once a year. Or some not at all (avoid those shops).

I've worked on race teams that tested and if necessary recalibrated their torque wrenches, before each race weekend. If a situation arose during the weekend where a torque wrench's calibration became suspect, it would be tested immediately.

A release/click type torque wrench can be adjusted/calibrated, if there are no broken internal parts.

Honestly, for infrequently used home mechanic type usage where speed isn't of the essence, and you aren't earning a living with it, I like a quality, reliable bending bar torque wrench. Of course then you need to be able to watch the indicator, while you're applying force. Which in some circumstances can be a pain.
 
Thanks guys,

I know I'll need more than one but looking at the torque specs page:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/129548-torque-specs.html

Looks like a 10-100lb the most commonly available and certainly better than none.

While searching I discovered CDI torque wrenches…ever heard of them? Any thoughts? They are made by Snap-On in the USA and ~$113 for a brand new 10-100lb from Amazon. No clue on the internals but most reviews state the only difference they can tell in the Snap-On laser engraved numbers as opposed to CDI stamped/cast… "Snap-on Industrial Brands warrants that CDI Torque products shall be free from defects in workmanship and materials for the usable life of the product".

Might be a better deal than used anything for the price….

Thoughts?


UTEP
 
CDI makes the wrenches for Snap-on I believe. Precision Instruments used to. I just bought a PI 1/2" drive 40-250 wrench off Amazon for $140. Snap-on sells the same thing for $350. I'm sure CDI's wrenches are good quality. I like the split beam style because you don't have to "turn them down" so to speak. You can just leave them at whatever torque setting you last used and it doesn't hurt them. Personally I see no reason to calibrate the split beam style since the internals are only under pressure when you are actually torquing. To each his own though. This is the one I bought Precision Instruments (PREC3FR250F) 1/2" Dr. "Split Beam" Torque Wrench w/Flex head (40-250 Ft./Lbs) - Amazon.com
 
Go to one of the Lowes in El Paso, and if you are willing to drop $100, you can buy both offered by Kobalt. I use the one torqued to 250ft/lb often. Skip the Matco IMHO.

To keep a torque wrench reading accurately, don't drop it, and foremost always return it to the lowest reading when finished.
 
Go to one of the Lowes in El Paso, and if you are willing to drop $100, you can buy both offered by Kobalt. I use the one torqued to 250ft/lb often. Skip the Matco IMHO.

To keep a torque wrench reading accurately, don't drop it, and foremost always return it to the lowest reading when finished.


Thanks for the tip! Picked up the 10-100lb this morning. I checked it on some know torques and seems accurate. I used the CDI to torque lug nuts at 40-50-60-70-83lbs and found the Kobalt seemed to respond accordingly when torquing up to 83lbs.

I returned the CDI. Seems well made but the etched numbers just too hard to read. The Kobalt has similar issue but stamped numbers that I think I can smear some pain in if it proves problematic.

Thanks,

UTEP
 

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