Camshaft service bolt

rcrick

New member
How important is it to use the service bolt when removing and then installing the cam shafts? And what exactly does the bolt do? I just installed a set of rebuilt heads and they didn't come with a service bolt in them and I didn't use one. The valvetrain seems a little noisier than I remember and almost sounds like a diesel engine. I found another thread that had a link to a YouTube video of a rig with a similar sound and the guy said it was from not using the service bolt? Any confirmation on this?

If I need to tear it back down how would I correct the problem? I tried to line up the holes on the cam sprocket before reinstalling but I couldn't even get it to line up good enough by hand to put a bolt in.
 
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It is to keep the cams from rattling like you are explaining. If it were me I'd tear it down and fix it. Not sure how to spring it back but I know that if you have a Napa shop locally they can do it
 
Yeah that's what I was afraid of. I was just reading the service manual and I found some guidance on how to get the bolt in there. The good news is that this is on the exhaust cam. I should be able to get the exhaust cam out without taking much apart. Really I just have to get the valve covers off. Do one side at a time and use a wrench on the crank shaft to rotate the cams into position for removal. I see no reason why this can't be done without having to take the timing belt off. Might not take too long to correct.

Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
You can use a valve cover bolt it is the correct size for exactly this reason. It's also this way so you don't accidently for get it in the cam cogs when you put the covers back on you can see you're one short. When I did the head gasket on an MR2 I had to remove the cams, it was the same contra rotating biparted gear driven cam system we use in your V6's I didn't know about the spring loaded exhaust cam but learned about it quick! Just use vice grips with a rag or rubber tips if you have them to "rewind" the clock spring it should only take moveing the "free cog" forward one to two teeth. Then you should be able to hold it with one hand and start the bolt with the other. That's how I did it anyway.

To answer your question though you only need to remove the exhaust cam, just make sure to fallow the fsm on how to remove it and reinstall it in the proper order and torque.
 
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Said sequence since I did it yesterday. However, in looking at it again, I realize I did it wrong :rockthrow: Swapped 5+6 with 7+8. Ah well all still seems well, stupid me though. Anyway, for reference-

tqsequence_zps47f6f437.jpg~original
 
Said sequence since I did it yesterday. However, in looking at it again, I realize I did it wrong :rockthrow: Swapped 5+6 with 7+8. Ah well all still seems well, stupid me though. Anyway, for reference-

tqsequence_zps47f6f437.jpg~original
Just can't catch a break can you man?
 
Just can't catch a break can you man?

LOL my own stupid doing - I should have just printed the page instead of running in and out of the house to view on computer. I actually did it as if I was upside down, so 1 became 2, and all the order is out of whack :banana: Again, if the noise were still bothering me I'd once again redo it, but it seems like I lucked out.
 
You can use a valve cover bolt it is the correct size for exactly this reason. It's also this way so you don't accidently for get it in the cam cogs when you put the covers back on you can see you're one short. When I did the head gasket on an MR2 I had to remove the cams, it was the same contra rotating biparted gear driven cam system we use in your V6's I didn't know about the spring loaded exhaust cam but learned about it quick! Just use vice grips with a rag or rubber tips if you have them to "rewind" the clock spring it should only take moveing the "free cog" forward one to two teeth. Then you should be able to hold it with one hand and start the bolt with the other. That's how I did it anyway.

To answer your question though you only need to remove the exhaust cam, just make sure to fallow the fsm on how to remove it and reinstall it in the proper order and torque.

Man I got that exhaust cam out and put the vise grips to it and tried twisting the subgear. no luck, don't have the grip/strength to get the holes lined up, even using both hands. I'm almost convinced that if the holes line up then the teeth won't be lined up anymore?

any ideas?
 
Well I put my big boy pants on (and a pair of leather work gloves) and man handled that sob until I could ram that stupid screw in there. Motor sure is quiet now.

My torque wrench crapped out on me so I freestyled on the cam caps, YOLO.
 
Well I put my big boy pants on (and a pair of leather work gloves) and man handled that sob until I could ram that stupid screw in there. Motor sure is quiet now.

My torque wrench crapped out on me so I freestyled on the cam caps, YOLO.

WOO! Glad you got it! I would suggest getting a new torque wrench and double checking all the cam bolts just for piece of mind. You'd hate for something to fly loose inside there. But at least she's running again.
 
I thought that service bolt was suppose to be removed after the cams were installed.

My passenger head has noise I can’t figure out. Valve lash is good.

Edit I don’t remember if I used a bolt in that cam or not.

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I pulled the exhaust cam yesterday and sure enough I needed to tension the exhaust gear. What a pain. It’s got major tension on it. Tomorrow I’ll torque the cam bearings and fire it up. It should solve my valve train noise on the passenger side head.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So just for clarification, (I just did this procedure this weekend because I had forgotten about it when I built the engine) The service bolt is a M6x1.00. This is a super common thread pitch and is used everywhere on the vehicle. (Whenever you bust out your 10mm wrench you are working on an M6 bolt.)

So for anyone who is looking to do this you can either use the cam cover bolts, or just run to a hardware store and get a m6x1.00 x 25mm.
 
So just for clarification, (I just did this procedure this weekend because I had forgotten about it when I built the engine) The service bolt is a M6x1.00. This is a super common thread pitch and is used everywhere on the vehicle. (Whenever you bust out your 10mm wrench you are working on an M6 bolt.)

So for anyone who is looking to do this you can either use the cam cover bolts, or just run to a hardware store and get a m6x1.00 x 25mm.

Yup. I normally just snag a valve cover bolt or ignition coil bolt and screw it in. A little on the long side but if you get it just right you can still rotate the camshaft and it won't hang up on anything.
 

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