can i use this grease

[slapdappy]

also vexing

How much grease do you pump into slip yoke and other zerks so you don't f things up ??

This is also as fraught as the matter of moly vs. non moly.
I believe zerks are installed to allow adding new grease while purging old grease. The old grease, in which are suspended any contaminates, flows out past the slip joint seal. This is an inherent part of the design, not a result of seal failure.
The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread | Page 2 | IH8MUD Forum
Some warn of hydrolock and blown seals if 'over filled.' Here's why I think this can be an issue.
The lithium in lithium based grease is a soap. Lithium soap - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. As the grease is used up the soap remains. If new grease is not added and the old grease is not purged this soap dries and forms a hard blockage inside the seal. This happens because one of the most neglected maintenance items on our trucks is greasing the driveshaft. This needs to be done more frequently when the trucks are taken off road and/or through water. A happy joint is free of water and grit. A happy joint has smooth surfaces and clean fresh grease.
You assume ownership of this truck and decide to actually read the manuals and read the forums so you can know how to get it in tip top shape. The previous owner didn't know about the driveshaft zerks so they were ignored, the grease was used up, the remaining lithium soap and contaminants dried up so the seal is well and truly blocked.
You decide to service it as it was meant to be serviced and pump new grease in until all the old grease is purged. Instead, you pump and pump and pump and start to see the slip joint extending as it fills with grease, but no grease comes out the other end.
You drive the truck, go over a big bump, the slip joint compresses, pressure goes up, the seals are blocked, and somethings gotta give. The weakest link is one of the 2 seals, the one inside the slip joint (tube) or the one inside the crotch of the 'Y' of the yoke. The pressure blows one of these seals, someone says 'damn it, I overfilled the slip joint and blew the seal. Hey everybody, don't overfill your slip yokes or they will hydrolock and blow a seal. Just give it couple of pumps and you're good to go."
I chose to see of I could soften the blockage and get grease flowing past the seal as opposed to replacing the seals or using the 'couple of pumps' method. I have accomplished this. Older grease is coming out of the collar as I pump in new grease. Not to the degree shown in the photo but the grease is flowing. I think the blockage will continue to soften. All I care about is getting the new grease in and the old grease out.
Greasing the u-joints (Toyota calls them spider joints) doesn't present this 'hydrolock/blown seal' issue because they do not compress. It it is easier to purge the old grease, as you will see.

 

[Nelsonmd]

The typical concern with overfilling the slip yoke that I have heard is that if you fill the slip yoke, , there is no room for compression and the first time you hit a bump, your DS would try to immediately force all that grease through the tight slip joint. So the DS doesn't compress and it transfers force from the rear axle into the torque converter, potentially damaging the torque converter. I think this is a legit risk, so if you are really concerned about clogged seals or what not, you should take the DS apart and clean it, then fill it with the proper amount of grease, not just stuff the thing full. I did fill it all the way and purge once, but I also babied it for a while after that to hopefully get some of the grease to squeeze out without just hammering the TC.

 

[kolelt]

The other day I got two grease guns. Used moly on #2,#6#7, three pumps and then lithium on the rest zerks and pumped all the way till I saw new red grease come out of the zerks and around it. This pushed the old, watery grey grease out which looked and felt old.Then took it for a ride , flexed the truck little on small hills. So I'm gonna regrease the regular zerks next oil change to double check if it's good.

How often do you regrease? Every oil change ? Once in while.

 

[Taylor20]

Any recommendations on a grease gun and grease that doesn't turn to liquid and leak out all over EVERYTHING!????

 

[nobb]

It's not just a matter of whether there is moly in the grease or not. If you are going to use one grease for everything, make sure it is rated GC-LB, which means it is suitable for BOTH chassis and bearings. Some moly greases are actually NOT dual rated.

 

[kolelt]

I got two guns for $16 each from harbour freight and they came with flexible line and it fits nice and right over the zerk. I used VALVOLINE SYN BLEND with moly-fortified it's NLGI#2 , I used this grease on #2,#6,#7 ( 3 pumps in slip yoke )

Then for other zerks I used the Lucas red & tacky lithium NLGI#2 , I pumped this grease till it pushed out around that ZERK. While doing this the old grease got pushed out. It looked light black and little bit liquidish. The new grease only came in few spots on the zerks. But it came out ! I don't know if the zerks have only few spots where it pushed out the overfill or if it's suppose to push out all the way around. I hope this doesnt mean that there is some rock solid old grease holding up againt the seals inside and not letting the new grease seep out. But since I saw old grease being pushed out and new grease seep out I think it's good. So I hope I'm good but I will regrease next oil change.

This job is greasy and dirty. I don't know if it can be accomplished in a clean matter. You will get excess grease!!! You can have clean towels with some brake cleaner to clean the rest of. But I nocied that the excess grease fell of after a long ride home. So it cleaned up it's self.


If you worried about the grease luquifing , then keep up with maintance and regrease it. Mine looked old and liquidy a little. Tells me it was probably never greased. Till I just did it. Red grease is nice and bright so I will see it if something is wrong.

Be sure to clean the zerks of any dirt and have the grease gun tip clean. You don't want no little rocks or dirt being pumped inside. Especially if you set the grease gun side , check the tip where grease comes out. As rocks and drug stick to grease very very easily so just give it a pump or clean it with towel before moving on.

 

[slapdappy]

till I saw new red grease come out of the zerks and around it.

the Zerk fitting is just the little nipple the grease gun fits over, not the entire joint. grease coming OUT of the zerk? and around it? do you mean out of the actual nipple, or do you mean out of the areas proximate to the nipple, i.e. the joints?

How often do you regrease? Every oil change ? Once in while.

Since you just started, do it often. I'd do it every week or two for the next 2 months. I'd do it anytime you ford a stream or do some off roading. It gets easier and quicker each time you do it.
#2 and 7 will require the most coaxing. On these I've been using a grade 1, which is less viscous and tough to find, as I work to soften the blockage and get the grease purging. I'd have used a grade 0 if I could find it. I'll return to the grade 2 once this is accomplished. MOBIL Mobil Grease,Extreme Pressure,14.0 oz - Greases - 4NYY5|98898Q - Grainger Industrial Supply

 

[slapdappy]

3 pumps in slip yoke

any movement or extension of the slip joint as you pumped? you can use a 7mm wrench/socket and unscrew the zerk, take a short drive over some bumps to compress the slip joint and expel the grease, then reinstall the zerk (not too tight) and refill.

I pumped this grease till it pushed out... it came out !

satisfying, eh?

This job is greasy and dirty.
Be sure to clean the zerks of any dirt and have the grease gun tip clean. Especially if you set the grease gun side , check the tip where grease comes out. As rocks and drug stick to grease very very easily so just give it a pump or clean it with towel before moving on.

a large piece of cardboard under the truck is comfortable and a clean place to lay the gun. Lots of paper towels.

If you worried about the grease liquifying...

I think he's referring to the tendency of grease doing this as it sits in the grease gun in warm weather.

The new grease only came in few spots on the zerks. I don't know if the zerks have only few spots where it pushed out the overfill or if it's suppose to push out all the way around. But since I saw old grease being pushed out and new grease seep out I think it's good.

thats fine for the spiders and double cardan joint (#6). the slip joint seals (#2,7) will require the most coaxing.

 

[kolelt]

Lithium grease came out around the joint when I was pumping into that specific zerk/joint.

I did not notice the slip yoke move. I didn't want to overfill it with grease as some say is bad.

I do like your idea about removing the zerk anddriving around till it pushed the old grease out.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Those setups use centrifugal force to lube the prop shaft and u-joints. I'd just put two strokes in it and forget about it until its do again.