I read several threads here about adjusting the e-brake. As some of you know I had new axle seals and bearings installed so I put all that back together with new brake shoes. They seem to be working ok ( however I'm not getting technical like some people do with checking clearances down to the thousandth) but the e-brake won't hold the truck still. I read the drive backwards and ratchet it up and down procedure so i tried it. Didn't work. Short of messing with the cable is there an easy to understand and concise method that won't drive me crazy? Thanks
Can somebody give it to me straight?
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JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
Assuming your bellcranks are working, you only need to adjust the star wheel until it just starts to make contact with the drum, then you can pull your ebrake handle 10 or so times to self-adjust the shoes. You should be able to pull the ebrake handle 1/2 to 2/3 the way up.
Scramble
New member
This is the only thing I've ever done to it.
(besides the extension bracket when I did my lift)
It's a southern truck. 4runner with 245,000 miles though. I adjusted the star wheel until I felt like the shoes were dragging some. Then I put the tires on and called it a day. As for the pulling of the handle. Is that with the button depressed or out letting it "click" throughout the motion.? Because I just yanked it up about 20 times and got nothing to improve.
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
So the handle is coming all the way to the top? If the ebrake pulling (as if you were using it) isn't adjusting the tension at all then your bellcranks may be frozen.
Maybe this could help:
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pluton
Senior Member
After the local dealer f'ed up the rear brakes during a rear axle seal job, I had to go back and adjust the rear brakes/e-brake/bellcranks several---meaning four or five--- times. I'd spin the wheel to check the amount of drag, then pull the wheel/drum and adjust it. Finally I got the proper "balance" between the e-brake and the overall adjustment....and, it's been fine for over two years and counting.
I referred to the rear brake adjustment section in the FSM.
I referred to the rear brake adjustment section in the FSM.
daninmissouri
New member
Factory Service Manual
Assuming the bell cranks move freely and everything works as it should, the automatic adjuster SHOULD be able to take care of everything. When I redid my e-brake, I made the mistake of setting the star adjuster to have a bit of drag on the drums, well that ended up being too much and the brakes heated up while driving. So I backed them off so that there was no drag at all, and let the automatic adjuster do its thing.
so normal driving might fix it?
SpidermanGeek
New member
A few things to point out.. it's not technically and "Emergency Brake", it's a "Parking Brake".
With that in mind, it's not deisgned/meant to hold the vehicle while in a forward or reverse gear. It's simply designed to prevent the vehicle from moving against the force of gravity (i.e., a hill).
A better test to conduct is to put the vehicle in neutral on a flat or downgrade and see if you can budge the vehicle by giving it a slight push (You don't have to strongman it).
I totally understand. I was impressed with how much better it works now. I think some people watch too many drift races and think their car will do that by snatching up on the e brake handle. Lol
nevada
Senior Member
you likely need to adjust the brakes again.
the very best way to do it, with the drum and wheel IN place. adjust the star wheel through the hole in the backing plate, until its tight, and you cant turn it(star wheel) anymore. then using a pick, or small screwdriver, depress the catch so you can back the adjuster off until you can just turn the tire. it should have a very slight amount of drag.
doing it that way can be tough, make sure you are able to disengage the catch BEFORE you get it completely tight. otherwise you wont even be able to get the drum off, or drive it somewhere for a proper repair.
the reason for making it tight, then back it off, is it centers the shoes. if they aren't centered when you adjust them so you can "hear them dragging" the shoe is only touching in one place, and not around the entire surface. but during braking they WILL center, and you will get decreased performance.
make sure to get the shoes adjusted properly BEFORE making any adjustment to the brake cables.
Makes sense. Thanks, I'll do it.
