Canoe Setup?
- Thread starter tjstevens5
- Start date
williamlv282
New member
Does anyone with a Gobi Stealth Rack have experience loading a canoe or kayak?
Pictures would be awesome too!
I know this is a long dead thread, so I apologize for bringing it back. I just didn't feel like I needed to make a new thread since this one still exists.
Pictures would be awesome too!
I know this is a long dead thread, so I apologize for bringing it back. I just didn't feel like I needed to make a new thread since this one still exists.
KeithMaine
Member
Canoe
In my experience, the Yakima bars attached to the factory rails work well. You need the rack for two things:
1) height over the factory spoiler when loading and
2) the attachment point for the belly straps.
I have a 17' Old Town Penobscot which I have carried rooftop for many thousands of miles. For loading purposes, when I am alone, I carry the canoe on my shoulders with the carrying yoke to the back of the truck and then put the bow on the rear most cross bar. I then squat down and lower the stern end to the ground. I step out from under the canoe and push it squarely onto the rack.
I secure it with two belly straps constructed from webbing and cam lock buckles. The straps follow the contour of the hull and go straight down to the cross bars INSIDE THE BRACKETS. Be sure to buy good quality straps like those from NRS. This is not an application for some cheap Made in China strap. There is no reason to use a line from the bow to the front bumper. If the straps loosen up at some point while driving, you'll notice it long before it gets critical and it is easy enough to stop and tighten the straps again.
If you are well versed in knots, there is also the "Truckers' Hitch" which can be used in place of the nylon strap. Read about it here: Truckers Hitch - How to tie a Trucker's Hitch
Lastly, it is really good to know how to pick the canoe up solo so it can be carried by the portage yoke. It is about 75% technique and 25% strength. There are several ways to do it... check on YouTube. IMHO, the best way to hurt yourself picking up a canoe and loading it is by having a helper who tries to lift, push or steer it when you are carrying it on your shoulders.
In my experience, the Yakima bars attached to the factory rails work well. You need the rack for two things:
1) height over the factory spoiler when loading and
2) the attachment point for the belly straps.
I have a 17' Old Town Penobscot which I have carried rooftop for many thousands of miles. For loading purposes, when I am alone, I carry the canoe on my shoulders with the carrying yoke to the back of the truck and then put the bow on the rear most cross bar. I then squat down and lower the stern end to the ground. I step out from under the canoe and push it squarely onto the rack.
I secure it with two belly straps constructed from webbing and cam lock buckles. The straps follow the contour of the hull and go straight down to the cross bars INSIDE THE BRACKETS. Be sure to buy good quality straps like those from NRS. This is not an application for some cheap Made in China strap. There is no reason to use a line from the bow to the front bumper. If the straps loosen up at some point while driving, you'll notice it long before it gets critical and it is easy enough to stop and tighten the straps again.
If you are well versed in knots, there is also the "Truckers' Hitch" which can be used in place of the nylon strap. Read about it here: Truckers Hitch - How to tie a Trucker's Hitch
Lastly, it is really good to know how to pick the canoe up solo so it can be carried by the portage yoke. It is about 75% technique and 25% strength. There are several ways to do it... check on YouTube. IMHO, the best way to hurt yourself picking up a canoe and loading it is by having a helper who tries to lift, push or steer it when you are carrying it on your shoulders.
If using the stock rack, then the forward support is behind the moonroof. This puts a large percentage of your canoe mass ahead of the last support. When a truck passes you on the highway, the lateral wind blast is very impressive, and puts phenominal stresses on those belly straps. The canoe hull can be damaged, or the buckles/straps can fail, in which case, your canoe becomes a dangerous projectile!
I would strongly suggest crossed bow ropes tied down to the bumper or tow rings. They also serve as visual cues as to how well the canoe is riding up there, in case you can't easily see the canoe from the driver's seat.
I also prefer to have a support further forward, so I like a full rack, like a Baja or Gobi.
Call me anal on this issue, but in 55 years I have never lost a roof load.
Also, with a $2,700 canoe up there, I don't think four dollars worth of bow tie down rope is too much to ask!
I would strongly suggest crossed bow ropes tied down to the bumper or tow rings. They also serve as visual cues as to how well the canoe is riding up there, in case you can't easily see the canoe from the driver's seat.
I also prefer to have a support further forward, so I like a full rack, like a Baja or Gobi.
Call me anal on this issue, but in 55 years I have never lost a roof load.
Also, with a $2,700 canoe up there, I don't think four dollars worth of bow tie down rope is too much to ask!
scanny
Senior Member
I can say that this way below of carrying canoe is very safe, long highway driving, bumpy road and offroad trails - canoe sits very firm. I use Thule crossbars though.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/80915872@N07/35578536676/in/album-72157683558891300/" title="canoe2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4171/35578536676_e4c90cccb5_o.jpg" width="1024" height="575" alt="canoe2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/80915872@N07/35578536676/in/album-72157683558891300/" title="canoe2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4171/35578536676_e4c90cccb5_o.jpg" width="1024" height="575" alt="canoe2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Last edited:
GeoffCalv
New member
Factory Crossbars
Not the best picture to demonstrate my set up but its the only one i could find. I just use the factory crossbars and a couple of ratchet straps and have never had an issue or had the canoe move around. And this isnt a light canoe, its a cedar bark canoe made in the 1920s. I have driven highways and logging roads with the canoe like this.
I will sometimes add a strap from the back of the canoe to my trailer hitch but thats mostly just to make myself feel better, im not sure it actually does anything.
<ahref="http://s58.photobucket.com/user/geo_geoff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/A19BC9A7-B1BB-4568-A1A9-215718083B37.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/geo_geoff/Mobile%20Uploads/A19BC9A7-B1BB-4568-A1A9-215718083B37.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo A19BC9A7-B1BB-4568-A1A9-215718083B37.jpg"/></a>
Not the best picture to demonstrate my set up but its the only one i could find. I just use the factory crossbars and a couple of ratchet straps and have never had an issue or had the canoe move around. And this isnt a light canoe, its a cedar bark canoe made in the 1920s. I have driven highways and logging roads with the canoe like this.
I will sometimes add a strap from the back of the canoe to my trailer hitch but thats mostly just to make myself feel better, im not sure it actually does anything.
<ahref="http://s58.photobucket.com/user/geo_geoff/media/Mobile%20Uploads/A19BC9A7-B1BB-4568-A1A9-215718083B37.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g256/geo_geoff/Mobile%20Uploads/A19BC9A7-B1BB-4568-A1A9-215718083B37.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo A19BC9A7-B1BB-4568-A1A9-215718083B37.jpg"/></a>
CatskillsRunner
New member
I think the MegaWarrior is better than the stock rack for boats because you can avoid putting weight on the spoiler since it (Yakima rack) sits so much higher up. I can place my 17' kayak in between the rear rollers, put the end of the boat on the ground, then lift the end up and slide it into place, all without ever touching the spoiler, and by myself. I actually think the bigger the boat the easier this is to do.
I haven't used a bowline in years. I can see the boat through the windowshield and sunroof, so I tighten the NRS straps whenever I need to, but I really hate a bowline. I've left some nasty scratches on past vehicles because of those.
I think the more important issue is....why are you guys canoeing and not kayaking??? THAT is what troubles me.
I haven't used a bowline in years. I can see the boat through the windowshield and sunroof, so I tighten the NRS straps whenever I need to, but I really hate a bowline. I've left some nasty scratches on past vehicles because of those.
I think the more important issue is....why are you guys canoeing and not kayaking??? THAT is what troubles me.
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SantaFeTrailer
New member
(thread revival again)
I carry a 17' Grumman aluminum upside down. The problem with that setup is that you can't open the hatch with the boat on. Up til now I've just accessed the back through the window, no problem. However, we just adopted a dog who rides in a crate in the back. It would be really nice to be able to get the little guy in and out without going through the back seat (muddy paw prints, digging through all the kids' crap, etc.)
Any thoughts on that?
And, yeah, I know useless without pics but the little guy won't slow down long enough to get a picture that's in focus.
and @Catskills Runner, you know what they say right? "1/2 the paddle, twice the man!"
I carry a 17' Grumman aluminum upside down. The problem with that setup is that you can't open the hatch with the boat on. Up til now I've just accessed the back through the window, no problem. However, we just adopted a dog who rides in a crate in the back. It would be really nice to be able to get the little guy in and out without going through the back seat (muddy paw prints, digging through all the kids' crap, etc.)
Any thoughts on that?
And, yeah, I know useless without pics but the little guy won't slow down long enough to get a picture that's in focus.
and @Catskills Runner, you know what they say right? "1/2 the paddle, twice the man!"
I secure it with two belly straps constructed from webbing and cam lock buckles. The straps follow the contour of the hull and go straight down to the cross bars INSIDE THE BRACKETS. Be sure to buy good quality straps like those from NRS. This is not an application for some cheap Made in China strap. There is no reason to use a line from the bow to the front bumper. If the straps loosen up at some point while driving, you'll notice it long before it gets critical and it is easy enough to stop and tighten the straps.[/QUOTE]
You should ALWAYS use a bow and stern line when you have a canoe or kayak on the roof, belly straps are to secure it laterally, bow lines and stern lines do the brunt of the work pulling the craft secure to the rack. If you use belly straps alone and tighten them too much you WILL distort the hull of your canoe or kayak, especially the newer "plastic" types. Not to mention the blast from passing vehicles will cause your craft to rock back and forth on the rack, and on a long trip that can become a problem. Bow and sterns lines are a must.
You should ALWAYS use a bow and stern line when you have a canoe or kayak on the roof, belly straps are to secure it laterally, bow lines and stern lines do the brunt of the work pulling the craft secure to the rack. If you use belly straps alone and tighten them too much you WILL distort the hull of your canoe or kayak, especially the newer "plastic" types. Not to mention the blast from passing vehicles will cause your craft to rock back and forth on the rack, and on a long trip that can become a problem. Bow and sterns lines are a must.
Razorback_Curtis
New member
Old Town Saranac 146 - Stock crossbars
I found this thread very helpful as I purchased my first Canoe, and wanted to mount it to my roof and have zero experience with doing so. Below will be a somewhat detailed example of how I did my install, so that people afraid to use the stock crossbars can possibly be more confident, as it was my biggest fear along the purchase.
My first concern was that the canoe would sit really low on the stock crossbars, and since it is a short canoe I was worried about the front hitting the roof. Also, I knew I would need some rope to die down the bow and stern. I purchased this: http://www.amazon.com/SportRack-SR5...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
For the price, it was worth the purchase. Here is how they sat on the crossbars and how the canoe sat within them:
Now, as you can see in this picture, is how I decided to tie down the middle with ratchet straps. I was really concerned with how much wind would push up through the canoe on the interstate, so I wanted to make sure it was very secure. How I did this, which I believe turned out great, was to use two ratchet straps making an "X" pattern. I then hooked them around the end of the stock crossbars as shown above. The only concern I have is that these railings could slide, but there is so much pressure pulling up on them I don't believe they will.
Just to play that safe, I added one more "emergency" strap that hooked directly to the main rails:
My next problem was to secure the bow:
As you can see in the image above, the canoe is very short, so the bow barely reached further than the roof line. I started to put a rope from the bow down across the bumper and to the tow hooks, but hated how much rope would be rubbing against paint..I looked into the "noodles" and such but they really gave me no confidence. So, it was time to get creative. Now, that said, I'm an Architect, not an engineer, so I could be completely wrong and this next part not really do anything to keep the bow down..
I can post a detailed step by step on how the knots where used with the rope here, but you should get the general idea. I first took the rope and wrapped it around the handle of the bow and then draped each side over the front evenly. Then in an "X" Pattern, through it over the opposite side of the canoe towards the roof rails. My hope here was to apply a downwards pressure more towards the front of the canoe. The one side effect that I saw it possibly could create is that while pulling down, it's also pulling the the canoe backwards..but that's why you do this: Right?
In the end, I was able to comfortably travel 75 MPH on the interstate and had 0 problems and 0 movement of the canoe. I even took it down a rough gravel road at around 30 MPH and had the same result.
The last concern I had was the shark fin antenna...luckily it actually helped me! It held my seat back up slightly from hitting my roof making annoying noises.
I found this thread very helpful as I purchased my first Canoe, and wanted to mount it to my roof and have zero experience with doing so. Below will be a somewhat detailed example of how I did my install, so that people afraid to use the stock crossbars can possibly be more confident, as it was my biggest fear along the purchase.
My first concern was that the canoe would sit really low on the stock crossbars, and since it is a short canoe I was worried about the front hitting the roof. Also, I knew I would need some rope to die down the bow and stern. I purchased this: http://www.amazon.com/SportRack-SR5...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
For the price, it was worth the purchase. Here is how they sat on the crossbars and how the canoe sat within them:
Now, as you can see in this picture, is how I decided to tie down the middle with ratchet straps. I was really concerned with how much wind would push up through the canoe on the interstate, so I wanted to make sure it was very secure. How I did this, which I believe turned out great, was to use two ratchet straps making an "X" pattern. I then hooked them around the end of the stock crossbars as shown above. The only concern I have is that these railings could slide, but there is so much pressure pulling up on them I don't believe they will.
Just to play that safe, I added one more "emergency" strap that hooked directly to the main rails:
My next problem was to secure the bow:
As you can see in the image above, the canoe is very short, so the bow barely reached further than the roof line. I started to put a rope from the bow down across the bumper and to the tow hooks, but hated how much rope would be rubbing against paint..I looked into the "noodles" and such but they really gave me no confidence. So, it was time to get creative. Now, that said, I'm an Architect, not an engineer, so I could be completely wrong and this next part not really do anything to keep the bow down..
I can post a detailed step by step on how the knots where used with the rope here, but you should get the general idea. I first took the rope and wrapped it around the handle of the bow and then draped each side over the front evenly. Then in an "X" Pattern, through it over the opposite side of the canoe towards the roof rails. My hope here was to apply a downwards pressure more towards the front of the canoe. The one side effect that I saw it possibly could create is that while pulling down, it's also pulling the the canoe backwards..but that's why you do this: Right?
In the end, I was able to comfortably travel 75 MPH on the interstate and had 0 problems and 0 movement of the canoe. I even took it down a rough gravel road at around 30 MPH and had the same result.
The last concern I had was the shark fin antenna...luckily it actually helped me! It held my seat back up slightly from hitting my roof making annoying noises.
Razorback_Curtis
New member
I like having the canoe centered on the vehicle as much as possible, so I attached permanent Thule crossbar mounts on my roof. Works great! the crossbars are removable and all you are left with are little footings when not in use.
Nice Canoe! I didn't/don't have the money to get better crossrails yet (which is why I needed a solution for the Now) But I do plan to get some nice ones in the future. Could you post a link to the ones you used? especially the Front one I believe you're referring to, that's a nice idea! this solves the issue of the rails only covering 2/3rds of the vehicle..
Auntie Soshul
New member
To tie the bow down, you may want to consider a pair of these: Amazon.com : Sherpak Quick Loops (Pair) : Boat Trailer Tie Downs : Sports & Outdoors I first saw them on another post in this forum that discussed the same issue - the bow only comes to the middle of the hood. I bought them, and they work.
Razorback_Curtis
New member
Interesting. I'll order a pair of these and try them out this weekend. This would be a much less time consuming solution and also provide more stability. Thanks!
Phaedrus
New member
I think it might be this...
https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/prod...odium-foot-half-pack-4602-wkit-3101-_-1139650
Instead of mounting the foot to the channel, I used rivet nuts into the roof itself.
https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/prod...odium-foot-half-pack-4602-wkit-3101-_-1139650
Instead of mounting the foot to the channel, I used rivet nuts into the roof itself.
brockvond
New member
I regularly carry a 17' old town canoe on my 4Runner. No problems using the Thule keyed complete crossroads kit with 58 inch square bars ( I cut them down in length a bit). I also use the Thule 503 load stops on the bars, which are good tie down spots and keep the canoe from moving laterally in transit. I always take a blanket or towel to lay over the rear spoiler so that it's not scratched when I load or unload the canoe from the roof. This load bar system allows you to avoid the shark fin antenna; the top level of the bars is higher than the top of the antenna. For long trips I tie the bow and stern down to the recovery hooks and tow hitch, respectively. Shorter trips, I just use two tie down winch type straps.
2016 sr5p super white 4wd
2016 sr5p super white 4wd
scanny
Senior Member
Nice setup, looks prettier than mine : ) I was worrying about the same tings when I got my canoe, but as it appeared standard roof rails length is enough for 16' canoe. I even had one strap failure on highway (aluminum keel got sharp serrations with time and cut the strap.)
As per bow tie down I got easy solution for lazy people. I bought a short ratchet strap with hooks at the end and put it up between front recovery points. I bought also a sturdy ring in hardware store and put it at about the middle of that strap. Put a few ties around the ring so it won't move sideways. Therefore I got a good central point to hook up a canoe bow rope. Pipe insulation protests truck front and hood form possible damage. Worked for few years just fine. No tools required except a knife to cut extra length of strap if you got a longer one.
Sorry I didn't take better pictures, here's what I have for now:
The ratchet strap which creates a central point to hook up the bow line:
Then setup looks like this:
As per bow tie down I got easy solution for lazy people. I bought a short ratchet strap with hooks at the end and put it up between front recovery points. I bought also a sturdy ring in hardware store and put it at about the middle of that strap. Put a few ties around the ring so it won't move sideways. Therefore I got a good central point to hook up a canoe bow rope. Pipe insulation protests truck front and hood form possible damage. Worked for few years just fine. No tools required except a knife to cut extra length of strap if you got a longer one.
Sorry I didn't take better pictures, here's what I have for now:
The ratchet strap which creates a central point to hook up the bow line:
Then setup looks like this:
Peyto
New member
No reason to over-think this one. I'm just using Yakima Lowriders (yakima replaced them with the railgrab) with 48" round bars. The canoe is secured down by webbing straps, with old-fashioned ratchet straps holding the bow and stern to the recovery points.
And that's a Mad River Explorer in Royalex, not a light canoe by any means but haven't had any problems transporting with this method.
<a href="http://s300.photobucket.com/user/Peyto/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151022_133654_zpsgpugzpiq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn8/Peyto/Mobile%20Uploads/20151022_133654_zpsgpugzpiq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20151022_133654_zpsgpugzpiq.jpg"/></a>
And that's a Mad River Explorer in Royalex, not a light canoe by any means but haven't had any problems transporting with this method.
<a href="http://s300.photobucket.com/user/Peyto/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151022_133654_zpsgpugzpiq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn8/Peyto/Mobile%20Uploads/20151022_133654_zpsgpugzpiq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20151022_133654_zpsgpugzpiq.jpg"/></a>
