Can't get crank shaft to TDC

[azcat90]

...Taking the key way out of the crank would probably help, so soak it as well...

Thanks - what do you mean by taking the key way out?

 

[stir_fry_boy]

Thanks - what do you mean by taking the key way out?

Metal thing on crank sticking out and up a little on the left. That's the keyway.

Picture looks like it's pretty rusted, been leaking for a while. Make sure you clean it up good when you put it back together, I typically use emory cloth.

 

[azcat90]

Crank was 2 teeth from TDC

So my original question - the last pic shows that the engine was running with the crankshaft 2 teeth off of top dead center when both cams are at top dead center - is that possible?

 

[stir_fry_boy]

So my original question - the last pic shows that the engine was running with the crankshaft 2 teeth off of top dead center when both cams are at top dead center - is that possible?

You sure the cams were at TDC as well? 1 Tooth would make it run really rough, I don't know about 2 teeth. You know if you are one tooth off just by starting it after putting new belt on.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

Yes, replace the oil cooler hoses down by the filter. If that fails you are walking. And they live a hard life as they are right next to the exhaust manifold.

And pull the plugs. Makes it much easier to turn the crank and align the timing marks.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Yes it can. At 285k I can believe it. Line up the marks correctly, pull the tensioner pin, then rotate the engine to make sure the marks line up as they are supposed to.

If the engine is that far out of sequence, don't be surprised if you hear some different sounds. Checking the valve clearance may be necessary sooner than later, maybe not.

 

[azcat90]

Crank seal

OK thanks again guys (I assume you're all guys - call me sexist) for all the info.

Napa guy said I should replace the oil pump? gasket when I replace the crank seal and then sold me an oil pan gasket since I would have to have the oil pan off to get to it.

So I got under it with my 10 mm socket and then quickly realized that I am a sucker and/or the Napa guy is short on 5VZFE 4WD know-how.

So can I get away with pulling the crank timing pulley off and replacing the crank seal from there? Is it accessible from there?

I'm searching for threads.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

OK thanks again guys (I assume you're all guys - call me sexist) for all the info.

Napa guy said I should replace the oil pump? gasket when I replace the crank seal and then sold me an oil pan gasket since I would have to have the oil pan off to get to it.

So I got under it with my 10 mm socket and then quickly realized that I am a sucker and/or the Napa guy is short on 5VZFE 4WD know-how.

So can I get away with pulling the crank timing pulley off and replacing the crank seal from there? Is it accessible from there?

I'm searching for threads.

That's how you replace the crank oil seal. Honestly, I would only use a Toyota OEM part for that. It would suck to redo all your work, or get oil on the belt.

I had a recent experience with NAPA, don't get me wrong I like NAPA a lot. I had to replace my AC idler pulley. I went to NAPA, and they sold me one that made a lot of noise just by spinning it on my finger. I went back, and they showed me 3 different parts for the same part #! Never opened, all were a little different from diameter size to internal diameter size that you put the bolt through. The owner was perplexed when I showed him the difference between all 3.

For something this critical that you want to last, go with OEM only. Just my .02

 

[azcat90]

That's how you replace the crank oil seal.

How - from under the pulley or do I need to remove the oil pan?

 

[stir_fry_boy]

How - from under the pulley or do I need to remove the oil pan?

Remove crank timing pulley, the crank oil seal is behind it.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Looks like the NAPA boys don't have the David Puddy know-how. No need to replace the oil pump. Good thing they don't dig pools for a living.

Pull the crank belt pulley you broke. Behind it lies the crank seal.

If this is not a DD, order/buy this part and save yourself some grief to pull out the old seal:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-S...=1432223252&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+seal+puller

Then get a piece of PVC pipe equal to the diameter of the seal, put some grease on the inner lip (rubber) and knock it in. Or take a small hammer and gently hammer it in.

 

[azcat90]

Valves adjusted?

If the engine is that far out of sequence, don't be surprised if you hear some different sounds. Checking the valve clearance may be necessary sooner than later, maybe not.

Is it possible that when it jumped teeth, previous owner took it to mechanic who adjusted all the valves to compensate?

 

[stir_fry_boy]

Is it possible that when it jumped teeth, previous owner took it to mechanic who adjusted all the valves to compensate?

I don't understand how they can do that to compensate. It's a pretty close and specific range on the valve adjustment.

Doesn't seem like they were too concerned about the mechanical side being as how the TB was never changed.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

Looks like the NAPA boys don't have the David Puddy know-how. No need to replace the oil pump. Good thing they don't dig pools for a living.

Pull the crank belt pulley you broke. Behind it lies the crank seal.

If this is not a DD, order/buy this part and save yourself some grief to pull out the old seal:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-S...=1432223252&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+seal+puller

Then get a piece of PVC pipe equal to the diameter of the seal, put some grease on the inner lip (rubber) and knock it in. Or take a small hammer and gently hammer it in.

I need that tool.

When I put it in, I use engine oil on the seal and it slides right in with my fingers. I make it flush with the outer ring.

 

[BlazeRunner]

couple things, mitsuboshi makes the belts, not mitsubishi. also, the woodruff key will be difficult, if not impossible to remove without taking off the crank gear. and lastly, you can drill a small hole in the seals and insert a small screw into the hole and then pull on the screw to remove the seals easily. took me less than a minute on each seal this way, just be very careful where you drill and like others said, don't scratch the seal surface at all.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

couple things, mitsuboshi makes the belts, not mitsubishi. also, the woodruff key will be difficult, if not impossible to remove without taking off the crank gear. and lastly, you can drill a small hole in the seals and insert a small screw into the hole and then pull on the screw to remove the seals easily. took me less than a minute on each seal this way, just be very careful where you drill and like others said, don't scratch the seal surface at all.

This has worked for me as well.

 

[azcat90]

...mitsuboshi makes the belts, not mitsubishi...

You're right! Didn't read it too close.

 

[azcat90]

I don't understand how they can do that to compensate. It's a pretty close and specific range on the valve adjustment.

Doesn't seem like they were too concerned about the mechanical side being as how the TB was never changed.

I was just worried that when I start it would torque the valve train.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

I was just worried that when I start it would torque the valve train.

I don't know what you mean by that, it should run much better getting it back together, if it was truly out of time.

 

[jeremyc74]

I was just worried that when I start it would torque the valve train.

Just line all the marks up where they're supposed to be, and make sure you get the lines on the belt lined up with those so you know you're in the right teeth, and it will be fine. There's no way to adjust valve timing, so it was just off.