CCDave's 1987 Turbo 4Runner Build

Reproduction Vac decal and trans throttle cable

My vacuum info decal under the hood was 95% worn, but I could see enough of it to get some key numbers off it. A decal on a turbo that a friend is working on was in ok shape and had the same numbers so I used photos of it to draw this reproduction vacuum decal. I sent the artwork to https://doityourselflettering.com/ to have printed on their premium vinyl (rated to 280 degrees).

<img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/946/40485120280_3c866ffc65_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_1902">

I've been having an issue with the A340H automatic trans shifting into 3rd too soon on acceleration, and not consistently down shifting when gassing while driving around town. The 4Runner runs great when I manually shift through the gears, shifting at around 2800 rpms. One suggestion was to check the adjustment on the trans throttle cable so I did, and found that the cable adjustment nuts didn't reach the bracket and so the cable was never attached to anything. I made a second bracket and bolted it to the original bracket, making sure that it lined up with the adjustment nuts. The shift is slightly improved, but still not feeling right so now I'm thinking a shifter solenoid might be sticking. Anyone experience early shift issue on their automatic?

New bracket attached to original bracket ...
<img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/953/41338316694_bb498003c2_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_1878">

Cable attached ...
<img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/982/28185492698_b6b776d13e_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_1877">
 
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Automatic Sticker on Motor Trend photo

A photo from a Motor Trend magazine article showing the Automatic sticker on a 1986 4Runner Turbo.

<img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/41460512025_032ef5aa3a_z.jpg" width="640" height="295" alt="1987 4runner article in MoterTrend3">
 
Automatic Sticker in 1987 Toyota Publication

Posting to continue documenting where the Automatic sticker is showing up. This exterior drawing is from the Toyota "1987 model New Car Features" sales and service publication.

<img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/41719808214_43d7533998_z.jpg" width="800" height="662" alt="1987-4Runner-Exterior-Drawing-Automatic-Decal">

Interesting info in the publication. 1987 changes include Diagnosis Check Connector moved to the right front fender, progressive power steering on the 4x2 SR5 and Turbo models, Load Sensing Proportioning & Bypass Valve Brakes, and Outside rearview mirror design change to be more aerodynamic with electronic option for SR5 and Turbo models.
 
Where did you find the Toyota "1987 model New Car Features" sales and service publication?

It looks pretty interesting!

:yo:
 
Several repairs and some clean up

I took care of a variety of repairs and clean up over the past months, here's the summary:

Hood latch cable busted one Saturday afternoon. I ordered a new cable and cleaned and painted the old latch.
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4870/46122590751_76c0ba24e5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="1987 4Runner Hood Latch"></a>

The brake master cylinder started leaking. Picked up a new 13/16" MC from RockAuto. I considered the 1" upgrade, but decided against it since I've had no braking issues with the stock MC. When bench bleeding the MC I could only get fluid to move through the rear port, but when I plugged the rear port the fluid flowed through the front port and was able to bleed it.
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4848/46072703572_eb0983dfcb.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="1987 4Runner Master Cylinder 1"></a>

New Brake MC installed. I repainted the Booster, shield, and three way while the MC was off. I'm learning how to plate small parts, but my results haven't been good enough for finish work so I settled for using Eastwood paint (Silver Cad, Underhood Black, and Aluminum).
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4847/46122590371_61dabaceb1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="1987 4Runner Master Cylinder 3"></a>

Fuel injector #1 started leaking so took off the plenum and other parts to get to the rail. Labeled vacuum lines to avoid future issues.
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4916/44306352950_3540c87e8c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="1987 4Runner Injector clean 1"></a>

Injectors were a little dirty.
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4908/46122638271_ee3d8c74da.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="1987 4Runner Injector clean 2"></a>

The leaky injector was the cleanest.
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4860/46122638531_0630983389.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="1987 4Runner Injector clean 10"></a>

A little clean up while waiting for injectors to be serviced by WitchHunter.
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4886/44306352850_71953acf97.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="1987 4Runner Injector clean 3"></a>

<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4814/46122638131_d73cae1234.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="1987 4Runner Injector clean 4"></a>

<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4803/44306352720_a0489bda90.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="1987 4Runner Injector clean 5"></a>

<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4828/44306352660_f0fe76927b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="1987 4Runner Injector clean 6"></a>

WitchHunter did a good job servicing the injectors. I chose them from recommendations given on this and other forums.
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4804/46072780942_1c7062945f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="1987 4Runner Injector clean 11"></a>

Here's the before and after test results from WitchHunter Performance.
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4898/44306353070_52a755e1f9_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="1987 4Runner Injector clean 9"></a>

Injectors installed.
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4913/46072780832_aa4ea24200_b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="1987 4Runner Injector clean 12"></a>

Everything back together.
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4845/46072781002_10bed4bd3b.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="1987 4Runner Injector clean 13"></a>

Upper radiator hose sprang a leak at the thermostat housing. I couldn't put a new hose on a dirty thermostat housing so it was cleaned and painted, then I replaced the thermostat and painted the top tank of the radiator before installing the new upper hose.
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4891/31183376957_8618c81c58.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="1987 4Runner Tstat housing 3"></a>
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4856/45211114305_d50b04e826.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="1987 4Runner Radiator 2"></a>
 
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Transmission swap

I forgot to include the following work to my last post:
- Transmission swap: After replacing the transmission solenoids and going through the FSM troubleshooting steps I came to the conclusion that the A340H was worn out and needed to be replaced or rebuilt. I was fortunate enough to come across an A340H that was working fine and so that one went in and the old one came out. It's shifting through all gears and working fine. I still have a bit of power loss when it shifts from 2 to 3, but nothing like with the previous transmission. With that issue still happening even after the swap, I think its a safe bet that the cause is not internal to the transmission and somewhere with the ECT system. Time to test the ECT.

- Replaced the rear main during the transmission swap. The old one was leaking.

Next on my to-do list is replace the the front/rear shocks and Left CV Axle.
 
Fuel smell - Solved

I had a fuel smell pop up a few weeks ago and with the holidays over finally had time to look into. I was careful and didn't drive it, but with a fire extinguisher close by I did crank it up a few times to inspect the fuel damper, newly serviced injectors, cold start injector, fuel line connections, etc. for leaks. Nothing wet.

With the truck running it was hard to pinpoint the location due to the cooling fan quickly spreading the smell. I jumped Fp and B+ with the ignition "On" for about a minute and without the engine running I was able to isolate the smell to the area around the charcoal cannister. I did a pressure test with the air hose and the valve was bad. I checked megazip.net for the part number and found that the replacement cannister is the same part number used on the 2nd gen 4Runners. I sourced a cannister off a '95 4Runner with a 3.0 from a local upull-it, cleaned it, installed it, cranked it up - no fuel smell - problem SOLVED.
 
That's a great build! Lots of great tips-I have an 86 Turbo, and there are all kinds of little things(including sunroof ) that you cover here.
 
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Electroplating parts to restore protective finish

I've been learning about zinc electroplating and chromate finishes and over the past several months I slowly purchased what I needed to get started. I spent the morning getting the various solutions setup to replate a few parts for the first time. I started with a small L-shaped bracket as a test piece to see how things would go, then being happy with the results I plated a few parts for the 87 4Runner.

I used the 1.5 Gallon Copy Cad Zinc Plating from Caswell, plus the yellow chromate to try to match the original factory finish. The process was:
1) 10 minute soak in chemical cleaner bath (solution had to be 160-190 F)
2) Rinse
3) 4 minute soak in Acid Bath (18% Muriatic Acid)
4) Rinse
5) 10-15 minutes in the Copy Cad Zinc solution
6) Rinse
7) 5 second dip in Acid Bath (18% Muriatic Acid)
8) Rinse
9) Dry with air nozzle
10) 3-5 second dip in the yellow chromate
11) Rinse
12) Hang for 24 hours

Overall I'm happy with the results. Maybe a tad bit too yellow, but much better than the 32 year old dull, worn finish.

Here's the zinc electroplating and yellow chromate setup. Not shown are the gloves, chemical mask, and safety goggles I wore:
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4839/31775382207_53beced540.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Zinc-Plating-and-Yellow-Chromate-Setup">

Here are a few of the parts - Bracket from Turbo Vacuum, Brake line 3-way, Cruise Control Actuator Housing and Bracket.
<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7886/45992138864_ca31cfe254_z.jpg" width="409" height="640" alt="Replated-vacuum-bracket">
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4846/31775383057_82a85523b8_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Replated-brake-line-3-way">
<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7820/39751821553_39125a0b58_z.jpg" width="600" height="640" alt="Replated-Cruise-Control-Actuator-Housing">
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4810/31775382577_6382bd3438_z.jpg" width="626" height="640" alt="Replated-Cruise-Control-Actuator-Bracket">
 
I want to do this someday too. Nice work.
When you say too yellow, did you add too much of the color?

Thanks.
Yeah. There's more (darker) yellow the longer the part is submerged in the yellow cadmium. I'm still learning what the variables are, for example 5 seconds was good for one part, but a second or two too long for another part. Possible variables that I'll play around with might be the quality of the zinc coating from the previous step, and the speed of the dip (slow vs quick).
 
Those parts look perfect now.
Thanks. I have to give credit to Caswell Plating for their efforts in developing the kits/products and writing a detail manual to help newbies like myself start tinkering with electroplating.
 
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