CEL On... P0330 knock sensor code...

10ac

New member
Well for the first time since ive owned this 2000 toyota 4runner 4wd 3.4l, my CEL came on showing a P0330 knock sensor code. i have read alot about its very rare the sensor is bad and most likely just the knock sensor wiring harness that usually goes bad. what do you all think? is there anyone here that has had this issue and turned out it was just the harness? i did clear the code but it pops back up again then loses most of its power which ive heard is from the computer putting itself in limp home mode. also note i have a trd supercharger with 7th injector setup. i did price out the wire harness OEM toyota as well as the intake manifold gaskets oem and not too bad but those sensors are hella expensive!! nearly 200 each!!
 
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I just did this on my truck early this year, my initial reaction was the same. Thinking i could get away with just the harness for now, but understand to get to the harness everything still has to come off.

I'm glad i ended up buying both sensors and harness all together. Although it wasnt hard to change overall, its time consuming and there is a lot of shit to take apart. Meaning if i went in changed the sensor, buttoned it all back up and it came back on, id kick myself for not just doing it all at once in the beginning.

I have the same setup, a 2000 with SC and 7th. After changing the two sensors, harness, and gaskets all at once. I have no issues ever since and she runs good as new.

If you really want to pinch pennies, its possible but you will need to have a lot of time on hand and a lot of patience.

One the cheapest route, change the harness and since you are in there, swap the sensors. Meaning move the left sensor to the right and vise versa. What this will do is help you determine which sensor is going bad. The ECU has the ability to throw the code for each specific side that is going bad.
By swapping the sensors and replacing the harness, you have the smallest cost ratio, by only paying for the harness and then figuring out which sensor is your issue.

You put your truck all back together and drive around. If your knock sensor shows the other bank has triggered, you know its following that sensor and will need to only replace one. Then still take it all back apart and replace that sensor and hope the other sensor is not on its way out as well. Then you will have to do all over a third time.

Best case, you change your harness and no check engine then your harness was bad and you only needed to take apart the top half of your motor once.

Honestly, it wasnt worth the gamble to me and i valued my time more than a few extra hundred to do it all at once. Gave me the assurance my knock sensors would be good another 150k miles and i wouldnt have to take that shit apart again.

I would like to state however, before doing the swap i felt overwhelmed with the difficulty of the swap due to the knock sensors location and having to take apart basically the top half of the motor.
But after doing the swap, it really wasnt that bad. took a half day to complete. let just say its a lot easier than you think as long as you somewhat wrench.

Dont forget to drain your coolant before starting, i can see this being a HUGE problem for those who forget to do so.
Pretty much when you take your lower intake plenums off and if you didnt drain your coolant, youd pour coolant directly into the heads and yea...

Also buy a full set of gasket, as i am glad i did before taking it all apart.
Without having gaskets at hand youd have the leave the truck apart another day waiting for gaskets.

Some say they got away without changing them. I am impressed by this as my small rubber gaskets that are built into the gasket itself were all brittle and i knew if i reused the seal wouldnt be as good.
I mean its what keeps the coolant from leaking into the cylinders.. shit.

This is getting way to long, let me know if you got questions, id be more than happy to help.
 
[MENTION=46681]awpsome[/MENTION] , thanks for all the info. i appreciate it. i was saying the same, looks like its a time consuming job for sure and hate to do the tearing apart 2 times, but also at this time of the year, i think i may have to do things more on a budget and to do the harness, gaskets and swap each sensor for now and see what happens. looks like ill be tearing into it very soon. ill probably be taking pics to post on a thread showing a process. i do appreciate your suggestions and offering help. happy holidays!
 
... but those sensors are hella expensive!! nearly 200 each!!

FYI - Camelback has them for $141.47 plus shipping:
KNOCK SENSOR for 2000 Toyota 4Runner|89615-12090

Does anybody know if Denso is the OE supplier for these? I see where Amazon has the Denso brand listed for $99.99:
Amazon.com: DENSO - KNOCK SENSOR - (Toyota Avalon, Camry, Celica, Highlander, Sienna, Solara) - (Lexus ES300, GS300, IS300, SC300, RX300, RX330) - Part Number 89615-12090: Automotive - same part number shown, but doesn't state that it fits our 4Runners.
 
Yeah I'm kicking myself for just doing the wire harness and not the sensors. I'm still throwing the P0325 code and have to go back and re-do it all. I replaced the gaskets when I did the wire harness and I'm hoping they'll still be good and I can get it all apart again without damaging them. It was a pain in the arse, especially some of the bolts and nuts towards the back of the lower intake manifold. You don't have to disconnect the fuel rails though. The write up I read the guy disconnected them. You don't have to do that.
 
FYI - Camelback has them for $141.47 plus shipping:
KNOCK SENSOR for 2000 Toyota 4Runner|89615-12090

Does anybody know if Denso is the OE supplier for these? I see where Amazon has the Denso brand listed for $99.99:
Amazon.com: DENSO - KNOCK SENSOR - (Toyota Avalon, Camry, Celica, Highlander, Sienna, Solara) - (Lexus ES300, GS300, IS300, SC300, RX300, RX330) - Part Number 89615-12090: Automotive - same part number shown, but doesn't state that it fits our 4Runners.

Yeah I'm kicking myself for just doing the wire harness and not the sensors. I'm still throwing the P0325 code and have to go back and re-do it all. I replaced the gaskets when I did the wire harness and I'm hoping they'll still be good and I can get it all apart again without damaging them. It was a pain in the arse, especially some of the bolts and nuts towards the back of the lower intake manifold. You don't have to disconnect the fuel rails though. The write up I read the guy disconnected them. You don't have to do that.

thanks yall, well damn, yall got me thinking now i may just have to replace them. by the way, everything ive ever replaced on my runner has been OEM, as far as these sensors, could i get away with using something non OEM?
 
Before I order my sensors, [MENTION=46681]awpsome[/MENTION] can you confirm both knock sensors are the same part number?
 
I've had the same issue on my own vehicle and many others. I've always replaced both sensors and the harness. It's the best way to have the piece of mind you wont be coming apart again and again. And for me the best way to guarantee the repair to customers long term.

There where 2 Knock sensor suppliers on these trucks. Denso and Matsushita. Make sure you check the markings on the ones you take out and replace it with the same. Mine where Matsushita... could go either way on yours.

If you want to play pinch pennies or just check them out for kicks they can be tested by removing them and hooked up to a DVOM set to AC volts with one lead on the connector pin and the other on the sensor housing/case. Then tap the senor, they should generate a AC voltage reading when tapping them and not when you are not. The FSM only instructs you to do a resistance test. Since these sensors do not operate by changing resistance values but by generating AC voltage a resistance check alone has proven to be an extremely inaccurate way of testing them.

Hell replace it all anyway. But thought some people might be interested to read how you test them or why they still have a code after they only checked resistance and thought it was ok but turned out not to be.
 
thanks yall, well damn, yall got me thinking now i may just have to replace them. by the way, everything ive ever replaced on my runner has been OEM, as far as these sensors, could i get away with using something non OEM?

Before I order my sensors, [MENTION=46681]awpsome[/MENTION] can you confirm both knock sensors are the same part number?

They are the same part number.
However you will need to find out if you have the Matsushita or Denso sensors as there where 2 suppliers.

stick with OEM. Napa and others typically stock these from OE suppliers.
 
There where 2 Knock sensor suppliers on these trucks. Denso and Matsushita. Make sure you check the markings on the ones you take out and replace it with the same. Mine where Matsushita... could go either way on yours.

Are you saying that the two brands are not interchangeable?

I'm having new heads put on mine soon, and I have the P0330 so I'm going to replace the sensors and wiring harness as well. Want to make sure I don't have any issues.
 
Are you saying that the two brands are not interchangeable?

I'm having new heads put on mine soon, and I have the P0330 so I'm going to replace the sensors and wiring harness as well. Want to make sure I don't have any issues.

Supposedly no. Although I've never personally tried replacing one with the other.

I've always assumed parts suppliers still carry both makes for a reason and being that the price is about the same from one to the other. Why not use what was there.

Someone out there may have swapped them... it may work... but I guess I don't see why you would install the other manufacturers part instead unless you were simply unaware.
 

Did a little more research, and according to Camelback that part number is for the Matsushita, not the Denso:

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Denso:

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The first link that I posted didn't specify which brand - I assumed that the part numbers were the same for both - but now that I know that they are different I'm going to find out which one mine came with and put the same ones back in.
 
Did a little more research, and according to Camelback that part number is for the Matsushita, not the Denso:


The first link that I posted didn't specify which brand - I assumed that the part numbers were the same for both - but now that I know that they are different I'm going to find out which one mine came with and put the same ones back in.

I was trying to say that the part numbers are the same for both knock sensors on the engine. Since there is 2 under there they would both be Denso or both be the Matsushita and both the same number.

But indeed you are correct. The part number for the Matsushita style is different from the Denso style part number.

Not sure if I was confusing before and could see how it could have been read to mean I was saying both the Matsushita and Denso units shared the same part number which they don't hence the difference.
 
I was trying to say that the part numbers are the same for both knock sensors on the engine. Since there is 2 under there they would both be Denso or both be the Matsushita and both the same number.

But indeed you are correct. The part number for the Matsushita style is different from the Denso style part number.

Not sure if I was confusing before and could see how it could have been read to mean I was saying both the Matsushita and Denso units shared the same part number which they don't hence the difference.

I figured that's what you meant, didn't mean to cause confusion about that part. Just wanted to post the part numbers for each brand so folks would know, and to alert [MENTION=95206]10ac[/MENTION] that the one he linked to on ebay might not be trustworthy since the seller has the wrong brand listed. At those prices I would be a bit skeptical anyway.
 
[MENTION=46681]awpsome[/MENTION] , thanks for all the info. i appreciate it. i was saying the same, looks like its a time consuming job for sure and hate to do the tearing apart 2 times, but also at this time of the year, i think i may have to do things more on a budget and to do the harness, gaskets and swap each sensor for now and see what happens. looks like ill be tearing into it very soon. ill probably be taking pics to post on a thread showing a process. i do appreciate your suggestions and offering help. happy holidays!

no problem, i found a few pictures from when i did my swap, none of the actual swap but some that will help you understanding the overall situation better.

Yeah I'm kicking myself for just doing the wire harness and not the sensors. I'm still throwing the P0325 code and have to go back and re-do it all. I replaced the gaskets when I did the wire harness and I'm hoping they'll still be good and I can get it all apart again without damaging them. It was a pain in the arse, especially some of the bolts and nuts towards the back of the lower intake manifold. You don't have to disconnect the fuel rails though. The write up I read the guy disconnected them. You don't have to do that.

Yup exactly what i didnt want to end up having to do.. tearing it apart more than once. If i remember correctly, i did not disconnect the fuel rails either. just lift them up as a unit.

Before I order my sensors, [MENTION=46681]awpsome[/MENTION] can you confirm both knock sensors are the same part number?

Yes, i ordered two of the same knock sensors.. ill post a picture below on this reply. both were Denso and part number is on the picture on the box.
Airtex 5S2254 which is just the box i think and the distributor. its denso stamped inside.

I've had the same issue on my own vehicle and many others. I've always replaced both sensors and the harness. It's the best way to have the piece of mind you wont be coming apart again and again. And for me the best way to guarantee the repair to customers long term.

There where 2 Knock sensor suppliers on these trucks. Denso and Matsushita. Make sure you check the markings on the ones you take out and replace it with the same. Mine where Matsushita... could go either way on yours.

If you want to play pinch pennies or just check them out for kicks they can be tested by removing them and hooked up to a DVOM set to AC volts with one lead on the connector pin and the other on the sensor housing/case. Then tap the senor, they should generate a AC voltage reading when tapping them and not when you are not. The FSM only instructs you to do a resistance test. Since these sensors do not operate by changing resistance values but by generating AC voltage a resistance check alone has proven to be an extremely inaccurate way of testing them.

Hell replace it all anyway. But thought some people might be interested to read how you test them or why they still have a code after they only checked resistance and thought it was ok but turned out not to be.

Are you saying that the two brands are not interchangeable?

I'm having new heads put on mine soon, and I have the P0330 so I'm going to replace the sensors and wiring harness as well. Want to make sure I don't have any issues.

The two brand are interchangable.
I didnt pull them out to check what they were first hand then place my order because there was no way i could afford to have my truck down for that long. I needed and wanted to do the swap in one day.
Come to find out i ordered denso knock sensors, two of the exact same model and when i pulled my OEM ones out they were the Matsushita brand. both sides were both the matsushita and both stamped the exact same.

I was hesistent and worried at the time as i was limited to the exact same information everyone else was reading to make sure to keep the brands same and such but i have been running them for close to a year now and have not had any issues or had my check engine come back. so its perfectly fine.




Now to reply to everyones post with some photos, because we all love photos.
Here are a few from my swap, but none of the actual swap just some photos in between to show my journey on the swap.
Felpro intake gasket part number:


Felpro gasket:


Comes with (2) lowers and (2) uppers


OEM knock sensor harness and part number:


close up of the harness clips:


Knock sensors and part numbers:


This was in the box, Denso Goodness:


bottom view and stamp:


an image of the job half way:


OEM Old knock sensor on the left
Denso NEW knock sensor on the right
you can faintly see the "M" stamp on the sensor


Looks like some slight changes:


old harness attached to the second "M" stamped knock sensors.
both OEM sensors were of Matsushita brand


By the way, to treat myself, this just came back from paint the day after the knock sensor swap:


Hope this helped if anything. good luck to those who are going to do the swap.

I just want to comment, i never had ANY issues with changing from the original Matsushita brand to the new Denso brand.
No check engines ever since and truck runs perfect.

my recommendation after the install, do the entire swap at once.
both sensors, the harness, and the gaskets.
do not cut corners.
you will just find yourself doing the swap more than once and it is not worth it.

here are some documentation of the swap i found in a txt file in my folder



Part numbers:
sensor89615-12050
harness82219-34010
intake 17177-62060

Ordered from Rockauto
$232.30 for (2)Denso Knock Sensors
$91.96 for (1)Felpro Intake Manifold Gasket set Upper and Lower

Ordered from Ebay
$31.00 for (1)Knock sensor Wire Harness OEM
TOTAL:
$355.26


Above are the prices i spent and i think include shipping to hawaii, so those of you on the mainland will probably get them cheaper. i cant remember if those include shipping costs or not. i can double check if anyone interested.
 
thanks yall for all the info!!! please keep all the helpful info coming as this will help others im sure!!! happy holidays to all yall!
 

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