CEL On... P0330 knock sensor code...

Good question. That company (Bridgewood Motorsports or AntennaMastsRus?) has both part numbers listed for sale on Amazon for $99.99, but they list them both as Denso:
89615-12040
89615-12090

so do we need which part number? the one ending in 12040 or 12090??? ill just plan to buy the denso. honestly i was just gonna bite the bullet and replace gaskets and harness because all ive read has been 99% just the harness from heat damage. `i still may do it and just swap the sensors so if one is bad ill know it is for sure bad. i may just do that and let yall know the outcome. ill take walk through pics too for yall. thanks
 
Rock Auto or OEM.... Decisions, decisions....

LOL.. its always the dilemma with our trucks.
So you been running your truck with the check engine on for some time?

I remember whenever it would come on, power loss was huge and made driving a pain in the as..

Ive had it installed for little under a year so i cant give you feedback on longevity but denso is a good OEM manufacturer i trust.

I wouldnt be surprised if you went OEM and it was the exact same sensor.

whats the OEM cost difference?
 
By the way for those who are set on getting the same brand as whichever came on your truck, rockauto lists both denso and Matsushita if you want.
As i said before i changed from Matsushita to Denso and have had zero issues.
 
By the way for those who are set on getting the same brand as whichever came on your truck, rockauto lists both denso and Matsushita if you want.
As i said before i changed from Matsushita to Denso and have had zero issues.

Good catch, not sure how I missed that when I searched before. Here's a screen shot for anybody that wants the part numbers:

2uge0sh.png
 
LOL.. its always the dilemma with our trucks.
So you been running your truck with the check engine on for some time?

I remember whenever it would come on, power loss was huge and made driving a pain in the as..

Ive had it installed for little under a year so i cant give you feedback on longevity but denso is a good OEM manufacturer i trust.

I wouldnt be surprised if you went OEM and it was the exact same sensor.

whats the OEM cost difference?
Yeah CEL has been on for a while. Definitely fees like a huge loss of power. Almost like running without a supercharger again or even worse. Feels like the engine is misfiring or maybe even the throttle position sensor is bad. Luckily I have an old '91 corolla as a DD, I rarely drive the 4runner. It's been sitting for about a week now in the garage with the S/C off. I'm planning on taking the lower manifold off tomorrow and checking the wire harness again. My only other thought is maybe when I put it back together last time that the wire got pinched in there or something. I'm fairly certain it's one of the sensors though. When I clear the CEL I can get about 5 minutes of drive time before it comes back on and it runs fine during that time. I think the cost difference is about $100 between OEM and Rock Auto.
 
Yeah CEL has been on for a while. Definitely fees like a huge loss of power. Almost like running without a supercharger again or even worse. Feels like the engine is misfiring or maybe even the throttle position sensor is bad. Luckily I have an old '91 corolla as a DD, I rarely drive the 4runner. It's been sitting for about a week now in the garage with the S/C off. I'm planning on taking the lower manifold off tomorrow and checking the wire harness again. My only other thought is maybe when I put it back together last time that the wire got pinched in there or something. I'm fairly certain it's one of the sensors though. When I clear the CEL I can get about 5 minutes of drive time before it comes back on and it runs fine during that time. I think the cost difference is about $100 between OEM and Rock Auto.

Yea same thing, reason why you get that small amount of time to drive without the check engine after clearing is the knock sensor doesnt "activate" or get a reading till you hit about 2.5k rpm or something along those lines.
meaning it doesnt detect knock near idle or anything. only under some load.

But damn 100$ is a heavy difference especially if you going to change two.

if you think you are pinching the wire and want to gamble, you can swap the two sensors while your in there and see if your check engine changes sides.

That way you know which sensor is bad, if it is bad, and in return rip it all apart to change that one sensor.

Or just buy non oem and change them out and forget about it for another 10 years. haha

well if i decide to buy 2 of the sensors, i believe this is what and where ill get them. best price I've seen for the denso sensors.

OE Denso Toyota Lexus Knock Sensor 89615 12040 Genuine Toyota Denso Part | eBay

i love how the ad says "very very very very very high quality"
*sarcasm
 
i love how the ad says "very very very very very high quality"
*sarcasm

I saw that too, pretty funny.

This same seller also has this one listed for $10 less - part number 89615-12090, which is listed by Toyota as the Denso - but in the compatibility chart it doesn't show the 4Runner.
 
[MENTION=95206]10ac[/MENTION]
FYI - I called that ebay seller a little while ago, wanted to see what kind of vibe I got from them over the phone. I'm all about getting good prices on parts, but I also want to be able to trust who I'm getting them from.

I asked about the two different knock sensors they have listed, and he told me that I should get the one listed as 89615-12040. He specifically said not to get the one listed as 89615-12090. When I told him that the Toyota parts catalog listed both part numbers for the application, his response was "we know". Not sure why, but seems like they're playing games with part numbers. Not exactly confidence inspiring.

Think I'm gonna go with either Rockauto or Camelback.
 
Rock Auto or OEM.... Decisions, decisions....

Little more info on this. I called Airtex/Wells this morning to find out if the sensors they sell are actually manufactured my Matsushita & Denso, and the person I talked to said that they are not. He said that they manufacture the parts, and they are "marked" Matsushita or Denso, meaning that the sensors on Rock Auto are actually aftermarket. Not sure how they get away with using the other brands markings, but I think I'm going with OEM from Camelback - $322.38 shipped for two sensors and the harness.
 
Sensors

Well im thinking ill just go with aftermarket and take the chance. Ive spoke with people that did the same and years later still doing well with no issues. i did already order oem harness and oem gaskets. Sensors im ordering are 40 bucks each. Ill let yall know if they worked out. I have already pulled my supercharger off and now gonna remove the lower intake after i drain the coolant. Im even considering installing oem valve cover gasket set.
 
Little more info on this. I called Airtex/Wells this morning to find out if the sensors they sell are actually manufactured my Matsushita & Denso, and the person I talked to said that they are not. He said that they manufacture the parts, and they are "marked" Matsushita or Denso, meaning that the sensors on Rock Auto are actually aftermarket. Not sure how they get away with using the other brands markings, but I think I'm going with OEM from Camelback - $322.38 shipped for two sensors and the harness.

Great minds think alike! Just ordered mine from camelback last night, but it was $308.66 for the two sensors and wire harness. Wonder why there is the cost difference? Did you select the free ground shipping?

For anyone else doing this in the future, the wire harness is super fragile. The one I just put in less than a month ago broke and I was just looking at the dang thing over the weekend. I barely touched it and the wires came off the clip!
 
Great minds think alike! Just ordered mine from camelback last night, but it was $308.66 for the two sensors and wire harness. Wonder why there is the cost difference? Did you select the free ground shipping?

I'm in a bit of a hurry for the parts, and I assumed - incorrectly - that the free shipping option would be sent at a slower speed shipping service. I called them and they said it's the same either way, so they changed it for me.
 
Little more info on this. I called Airtex/Wells this morning to find out if the sensors they sell are actually manufactured my Matsushita & Denso, and the person I talked to said that they are not. He said that they manufacture the parts, and they are "marked" Matsushita or Denso, meaning that the sensors on Rock Auto are actually aftermarket. Not sure how they get away with using the other brands markings, but I think I'm going with OEM from Camelback - $322.38 shipped for two sensors and the harness.

WHAT?!
no way... if so thats just messed up. I bought them expecting them to be denso brand and quality. not some aftermarket that stamps their denso name on it..

this cant be real, i doubt companies can do that.. Denso and others wouldnt let that fly..
thats like honda stamping their cars as lexus and shit.

I hope my parts are legit and hope they last and are built to denso standards..
i searched google and cant find anyone else saying that airtex stuff is rebranded with other name brands.

Ive heard of rebranding the other way around where they would get other peoples parts and brand it their own but not building their own stuff and branding it with well known names..

you sure your info is correct?
 
WHAT?!
no way... if so thats just messed up. I bought them expecting them to be denso brand and quality. not some aftermarket that stamps their denso name on it..

this cant be real, i doubt companies can do that.. Denso and others wouldnt let that fly..
thats like honda stamping their cars as lexus and shit.

I hope my parts are legit and hope they last and are built to denso standards..
i searched google and cant find anyone else saying that airtex stuff is rebranded with other name brands.

Ive heard of rebranding the other way around where they would get other peoples parts and brand it their own but not building their own stuff and branding it with well known names..

you sure your info is correct?

Understood, and the reason I called them is because I was confused by the wording used on Rockauto - "marked" Matsushita and "marked" Denso" (see my screenshot on post #25) - and wanted to make sure that what I would've gotten from them was actually OE stuff. The person I spoke to on the phone sounded very knowledgeable, and didn't do the "please hold while I check on that for you" thing. I probably should've quizzed him further on the subject, but once he told me that I knew that I was going to order from Camelback instead.

I googled a good bit about it as well, and also came up empty. Not sure what to tell you, hope the parts you used are of good quality and you don't have any issues.
 
Well I'm happy to report that after a 10 mile test drive the CEL is still off and it is running beautifully. Hopefully everything will be good for a while now. Thanks for all the insight guys. Good luck to everyone else swapping these!
 
Got a pair of matsushita sensors new for 60 bucks. Im happy with that. I have the oem toyota lower manifold gaskets and oem harness and while i was at it i ordered oem valve cover gaskets. S/C removed and next remove the lower manifold.
 
[MENTION=95206]10ac[/MENTION]
FYI - I called that ebay seller a little while ago, wanted to see what kind of vibe I got from them over the phone. I'm all about getting good prices on parts, but I also want to be able to trust who I'm getting them from.

I asked about the two different knock sensors they have listed, and he told me that I should get the one listed as 89615-12040. He specifically said not to get the one listed as 89615-12090. When I told him that the Toyota parts catalog listed both part numbers for the application, his response was "we know". Not sure why, but seems like they're playing games with part numbers. Not exactly confidence inspiring.

Think I'm gonna go with either Rockauto or Camelback.

I'm in the middle of doing this knock sensor and harness job on my 4runner (still). I'm getting ready to order the sensors from the eBay seller Bridgewood Motorsports, since they are who I got the harness from already. I'm ordering 12040's...they are the ones listed to fit the 3.4L and Bridgewood is a reliable seller.


My truck has been sitting in the garage torn apart for almost 2 months now, because I have a different vehicle to drive and I just keep putting off finishing it.


Were you guys all able to unbolt the fuel rails, but leave them connected to the lines, and just lift it out of the way enough to pull the lower manifold off? It looks like I can, but that's where I am right now.
 
I left my fuel rails attached completely to the lower manifold and was able to move it as once peice out of the way getting to the sensors.
 

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