sn0wrunner
New member
I only loosened the fuel rail bolts in order to get my socket onto some of the bolt heads that hold the lower manifold on. But no need to completely detach them. Don't forget to tighten them back up if you loosen them though.
CEL On... P0330 knock sensor code...
- Thread starter 10ac
- Start date
quicksilvr
New member
Great. Thanks for the replies. I already took it off...but that's because I took all the injectors out. I'm sending them to Witchhunter next week.
10ac
New member
knock sensor replacement progress....
ok fellas so did the job...it was time consuming for sure. i removed my supercharger and i left the fuel rail and injectors attached to lower manifold. all i did was raise it up out of my way and bungee corded it up in the air. then i removed the sensors and old harness which by the way was 99% the issue. it was all broken and heat damaged. i beleive like most say, the sensors are rare to go bad but i changed anyways. after that i cleaned the lower intake manifold surface and engine head surface for mating. i installed oem toyota manifold gaskets and reattached the lower intake manifold and all other components till it was all done. i did have a torque wrench available for proper torquing of bolts and blah blah... so anyways after all was done, i fired it up and she purred but! O wait!! the damn fuel injectors started leaking!! about looks to be 2 of them because they may have gotten moved around caused the orings not to properly seal since there are all original orings. so supercharger has to come back off to access the injector rail and injectors. ordered a whole new fuel injector kit for all injectors as well as the injector filters and hopefully get it done in the next 4 days. ill have pics up soon from my process. by the way... my factory sensors were mashita brand. they had "M" stamps
ok fellas so did the job...it was time consuming for sure. i removed my supercharger and i left the fuel rail and injectors attached to lower manifold. all i did was raise it up out of my way and bungee corded it up in the air. then i removed the sensors and old harness which by the way was 99% the issue. it was all broken and heat damaged. i beleive like most say, the sensors are rare to go bad but i changed anyways. after that i cleaned the lower intake manifold surface and engine head surface for mating. i installed oem toyota manifold gaskets and reattached the lower intake manifold and all other components till it was all done. i did have a torque wrench available for proper torquing of bolts and blah blah... so anyways after all was done, i fired it up and she purred but! O wait!! the damn fuel injectors started leaking!! about looks to be 2 of them because they may have gotten moved around caused the orings not to properly seal since there are all original orings. so supercharger has to come back off to access the injector rail and injectors. ordered a whole new fuel injector kit for all injectors as well as the injector filters and hopefully get it done in the next 4 days. ill have pics up soon from my process. by the way... my factory sensors were mashita brand. they had "M" stamps
shootmymime
New member
Hey let me bring this thread to your guys attention again.
I replaced my driver side po330 bank 2 sensor and harness.
Then it came back on. I get about 10 miles of driving before it goes. I can also hear it and feel it "KNOCK" just before the check engine turns on.
It's still throwing the po330. I replaced that sensor with one from auto parts store (still have box and old sensor) as well as the old harness.
Because I don't drive my truck much anymore but I also don't have much time to work on it ether. Although I've done this project before this will take me a couple days to do it again if need be.
Where do I start. What would you do?
Also I'm running 7th injector and 2.2 pulley at elevation 900
I replaced my driver side po330 bank 2 sensor and harness.
Then it came back on. I get about 10 miles of driving before it goes. I can also hear it and feel it "KNOCK" just before the check engine turns on.
It's still throwing the po330. I replaced that sensor with one from auto parts store (still have box and old sensor) as well as the old harness.
Because I don't drive my truck much anymore but I also don't have much time to work on it ether. Although I've done this project before this will take me a couple days to do it again if need be.
Where do I start. What would you do?
Also I'm running 7th injector and 2.2 pulley at elevation 900
KMcCormick24
New member
Does anyone know where I can find the information to replace these? I have never pulled apart the top end of the engine, but would rather replace these myself considering that everyone in my area has quoted me $1,800-$2,200 to do the job.
shootmymime
New member
They are kind of a pain job. I did mine last summer. Which did not fix my problem.
The hardest part was to remove the fuel line and lower intake. Don't mess with the injectors keep them bolted to the fuel rail and lower intake
It's simple but a long job. Take your time.
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Just recently got the P0330 code but I've noticed no decrease in performance or fuel economy. What gives?
I've already ordered the parts and plan to spend part of my Christmas holidays working on it, but it's a pretty expensive and time consuming repair if I don't actually need to do anything.
Has anyone else had this code without the accompanying decrease in performance you'd expect?
I've already ordered the parts and plan to spend part of my Christmas holidays working on it, but it's a pretty expensive and time consuming repair if I don't actually need to do anything.
Has anyone else had this code without the accompanying decrease in performance you'd expect?
shootmymime
New member
Are you supercharged.
If you reset the code will they come back on?
If knock sensors turn on you will go into limp mode.
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Naturally aspirated
Comes back on after reset.
Limp mode sounds slow. Should I avoid driving it until it's fixed?
shootmymime
New member
You won't have much power.
It just retards timing to prevent its self from sending wrong signals and burning up a motor. Not a big issue. Just poor fuel economy I'd guess and power.
I would really check if your wire harness is bad or the knock sensor. I've also heard a guy pulling the wire harness off and disabling the knock sensors on his SC runner.
Mine still constantly go off. I drove it on the highways yesterday and just going 50 miles I had to reset my check engine light 20-30 times. I have no idea what's causing mine.
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Well, the parts are on their way so looks like I'm on track. Not going to bother pulling it apart and blowing a set of gaskets just to redo it later so I'll just swap everything (ordered harness and both sensors) Does yours go into limp mode when the CEL comes on?
shootmymime
New member
That does suck. Wonder why you're losing power and I'm not. Do you ever get the bank 1 code or do you always get the p0330?
shootmymime
New member
I always get 330. Which is bank 2 (driver side). I replaced my sensor and wire harness. Still get it. So I'm not sure if it's supercharger related or a sensitive sensor.
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Weird. Not that familiar with the supercharger. Does the install come with thicker head gaskets?
maclean216
Member
I am having the same issue. Supercharged w/ 7th injector. Already replaced both sensors and the harness. Do you monitor timing and TPS at all? What year is your 4runner?
shootmymime
New member
Ok sweet let's work through this together.
Mine is 2000. I have a ultra gauge I watch things on. Tps is not one of them, But I do timing. That's how I know I'm in limp mode. It drops timing to 5 ish.
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Rock_Rat
Senior Member
FWIW,
I went through this a couple of years ago and didn't lose power. However, my gas gauge moved faster than my tach because as [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION] mentioned, the ECU is defaulted to protect the engine when it senses a KS system failure and kicks this thing down to "safe" limp retardation mode.
To answer your question, yes. The CEL and codes never came on during initial starting. They are self-clearing codes and only programmed by the ECU software to report malfunctions above (I think 1500 rpm). So realistically, if you kept your RPM's under (again I forgot the exact number but IIRC it was around 1500) you could drive forever and not get the code. (I have the specifics in a thread from around July/August 2014)
I tried splicing the grey wire into the black and cheating the ECU by providing both bank signals off of one sensor. That didn't work. I ended up with intermittent 0325 and 0330 codes. Wore my thumb out clearing the codes.
Replaced sensors with NAPA sensors - HUGE mistake! I think I took my manifolds on and off three times. Unfortunately, I got very proficient. It got to a point where I took it in to the dealer so they could look at the wave form on the diagnostic computer to determine if it's the ECU or not. The ECU was fine. It pointed to a bad KS. Bottom line for my fix was:
The only other thing I did was wrap the connector and the sensor with fusion tape after installed. They get so brittle over time and have a tendency to fall apart.
"Logically" it can't be SC related as there's absolutely no electrical interface with the SC and the KS wiring. Sounds like a sensitive KS or broken connector. Did you splice any wires into your ECU for the gauges and or mapping software? (perhaps you have a short??? Just thinking out loud.) Small rodent inside the manifold area chewing up the wires?
Not much help I know but this was one job that I remember all too well.
I'll be watching this thread as I'm curious to know what your fixes are for both of you.
I went through this a couple of years ago and didn't lose power. However, my gas gauge moved faster than my tach because as [MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION] mentioned, the ECU is defaulted to protect the engine when it senses a KS system failure and kicks this thing down to "safe" limp retardation mode.
To answer your question, yes. The CEL and codes never came on during initial starting. They are self-clearing codes and only programmed by the ECU software to report malfunctions above (I think 1500 rpm). So realistically, if you kept your RPM's under (again I forgot the exact number but IIRC it was around 1500) you could drive forever and not get the code. (I have the specifics in a thread from around July/August 2014)
I tried splicing the grey wire into the black and cheating the ECU by providing both bank signals off of one sensor. That didn't work. I ended up with intermittent 0325 and 0330 codes. Wore my thumb out clearing the codes.
Replaced sensors with NAPA sensors - HUGE mistake! I think I took my manifolds on and off three times. Unfortunately, I got very proficient. It got to a point where I took it in to the dealer so they could look at the wave form on the diagnostic computer to determine if it's the ECU or not. The ECU was fine. It pointed to a bad KS. Bottom line for my fix was:
- Absolutely OEM sensors only
- Install 100% dry (no di-electric grease)
- New sub-harness assy (make sure it's in the small channel on the manifold)
- Fel-Pro gaskets installed dry.
The only other thing I did was wrap the connector and the sensor with fusion tape after installed. They get so brittle over time and have a tendency to fall apart.
"Logically" it can't be SC related as there's absolutely no electrical interface with the SC and the KS wiring. Sounds like a sensitive KS or broken connector. Did you splice any wires into your ECU for the gauges and or mapping software? (perhaps you have a short??? Just thinking out loud.) Small rodent inside the manifold area chewing up the wires?
Not much help I know but this was one job that I remember all too well.
I'll be watching this thread as I'm curious to know what your fixes are for both of you.
shootmymime
New member
Thanks for the tip.
When I switched out my bank 2, I put in a parts store sensor and oem wire harness under the intake.
We are wondering if this is caused by
1. Sensitive sensors
2. Supercharger causing knock causing the sensors to trigger.
The supercharger I have has the 2.2, Smaller pulley for lot more air, 7th injector spliced directly into the ecu to intercept cam, crank, pos and neg voltage to run the piggyback. That tells then 7th injector when to spray fuel and how much to spray. It also adjusts timing, which is why I keep an eye on it with my ultra gauge.
Not to mention that the 10-15 deg temps we have here bring a lot more cold dense air into the engine.
I can trigger my knock sensor while cruising at 2k rpm or slightly below. At 65 mph. And lightly push on the throttle. No audible ping/ knock while doing it ether.
You may have beeen the one I was referring to who bypassed one KS and ran like that for a year ish with no problems. Or it may have been Texas ace???? Idk.
Iirc our knock sensors create a positive, measurable voltage signal when the engine knocks this triggering the code. I'm going to try to disable/unplug my aftermarket sensor and see if that fixes anything.
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