puppetz007
New member
Has anyone with the multimode T-case ever had trouble with the center diff not locking? I can get my rig in 4hi and 4lo just fine, but I can't lock the center diff. Anyone have any ideas?
Center diff not locking...
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4-Ripcord
New member
So you can get into 4hi (unlocked) via the 4wd button and shift into 4lo (still unlocked). But as soon as you try to lock the center diff with the center diff button it wont lock and just keeps blinking?
I just want to make sure I understand you correctly.
I hear of rear elockers seizing up sometimes or the actuators failing. Maybe that is your problem.
Have you tried driving around in figure 8's to get it to go in?
I just want to make sure I understand you correctly.
I hear of rear elockers seizing up sometimes or the actuators failing. Maybe that is your problem.
Have you tried driving around in figure 8's to get it to go in?
Doc2012
Senior Member
Do a manual conversion. I had that ADD crap in mine. After days of f*ucking with the Center Locking Diff, I just said screw it and got a Manual t-case and manual hubs off craigslist. 300 for 3 hubs, and the t-case. replaced the bearings in the bubs, and the t-case is fine.
The good thing is that you DO NOT need to go to a manual front diff. Take the actuator off the housing, move the fork over to the "engaged" position, make sure the sleeve is in the fork, seal it back up, and torque back to specs. Easy as pie.
If it's your acuator that's bad, it's going to be expensive to replace. Gotta take the back off the t-case, have everything lined back up, yadda yadda yadda. It'll probably be cheaper going manual.... Plus, you dont have to worry about that junk going out on the trail, and HAVING to replace a CV if it breaks. Just my .02....
The good thing is that you DO NOT need to go to a manual front diff. Take the actuator off the housing, move the fork over to the "engaged" position, make sure the sleeve is in the fork, seal it back up, and torque back to specs. Easy as pie.
If it's your acuator that's bad, it's going to be expensive to replace. Gotta take the back off the t-case, have everything lined back up, yadda yadda yadda. It'll probably be cheaper going manual.... Plus, you dont have to worry about that junk going out on the trail, and HAVING to replace a CV if it breaks. Just my .02....
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KidVermicious
New member
Did the manual case bolt right up, same driveshaft lengths and everything?
This is definitely his center diff that isn't engaging, guys. He got hung up on the trail last Saturday (his wife did, actually
), and he was spinning one front wheel. He's got four wheel drive, he just can't lock his center diff.
Doc2012
Senior Member
NO. The shafts are not the same length. When I did my manual conversion, the slip yoke was all the way out of the tube, about 1/4-1/2" gap, but still on the splines. Kinda scary, but still worked.
I can't tell you what one is the right one, but since I did my leaf conversion, I have a 48" shaft in the back, and need to get the ADD front one shortened, or get one from a manual transfer case. I THINK the extended cab and D-cab shafts are the ones that are needed to do the manual conversion, but DO NOT quote me on that.....
I can't tell you what one is the right one, but since I did my leaf conversion, I have a 48" shaft in the back, and need to get the ADD front one shortened, or get one from a manual transfer case. I THINK the extended cab and D-cab shafts are the ones that are needed to do the manual conversion, but DO NOT quote me on that.....
puppetz007
New member
You've got everything understood. I'll try the figure 8's tomorrow.
This is definitely his center diff that isn't engaging, guys. He got hung up on the trail last Saturday (his wife did, actually
Haven't been too concerned until that happened. My wife thought it was pretty awesome when 5 guys lifted the back to get one more wheel on the ground.
KidVermicious
New member
Any reason he couldn't grab the shafts from the same truck he gets the manual case from, if he wanted to do that?
Doc2012
Senior Member
Depends. If the truck has an automatic transmission, with a manual transfer case, sure. If it's a 4Runner. Remember, the single cab Taco's would be shorter. The extended and d-cab Tacos are about the same length as a 4Runner.
The best bet would be to measure from the pinion flange to the t-case flange. There's how long you need your drive shaft for the ADD. Then, measure the ADD t-case, and the manual t-case, subtract the numbers, and add it to the length of the shaft.
I can get under the truck after work today and measure the t-case on mine, but you'd have to measure the ADD t-case. My shaft won't work because I did the 63" Chevy conversion on it, so I can't measure from flange to flange.
The best bet would be to measure from the pinion flange to the t-case flange. There's how long you need your drive shaft for the ADD. Then, measure the ADD t-case, and the manual t-case, subtract the numbers, and add it to the length of the shaft.
I can get under the truck after work today and measure the t-case on mine, but you'd have to measure the ADD t-case. My shaft won't work because I did the 63" Chevy conversion on it, so I can't measure from flange to flange.
puppetz007
New member
It'd be good to see your measurements. Once you get those I'll go check mine.
puppetz007
New member
Update: Tried driving in figure 8's per Ripcord's suggestion to no avail. Can anything on the T-case be pulled and inspected without dropping it? Not including the (2) 27mm (?) sensors on the back.
puppetz007
New member
Just doing a quick look on the price of actuators v. price of a t-case, it seems to be cheaper to find a used t-case (multimode/non-multi) and just swap everything.
KidVermicious
New member
Puppetz, are you looking for used or new? I like to use Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market, but that's only if you're ok with someone else's dirt on your truck...
puppetz007
New member
I've got no problems with somebody's dirt, just want something reasonably priced and functional.
puppetz007
New member
Update: Cleaned all accessible connections and sensors on the T-case today. I do have a question about the center diff switch here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...case-guys-check-something-me.html#post1129253. Driving it home today the indicator lights would stop blinking for awhile w/ all 4 green wheels lit up (4hi, unlocked) and the orange light in the middle would flicker, then blink, then go out and repeat that cycle. Then all the lights would start blinking again. This has me suspecting an electrical problem along with a possible mechanical problem? Thoughts?
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BigFishAllDay
New member
If you haven't seen it, you might take a gander @ this thread:
4wd won't disengage 99 4runner ltd
The thread is centered around an issue that is a little different from the one you're having, but it has some good troubleshooting info and might give you some ideas on where to look for your problem.
4wd won't disengage 99 4runner ltd
The thread is centered around an issue that is a little different from the one you're having, but it has some good troubleshooting info and might give you some ideas on where to look for your problem.
puppetz007
New member
I've been through that thread a couple of times. I think I've done everything suggested there that can be applied to my rig.
puppetz007
New member
Does anyone know if having the vsc trac and vsc off lights will affect the center diff lock? I know that when the diff is locked the trac light will come on, but mine are on before trying to lock the diff.