Ceramic/titanium coating on Super White

[CanonShooter]

I've been doing detailing for years. These "coatings" are just the flavor of the week. Nothing that is applied in this manner will provide a shield to protect the paint from impact and abrasions. All of these products are designed to "optically" improve the surface. They protect it by making it harder for surface contaminants to stick on the surface. The slicker the surface, the easier it is to clean, and the less likely that you will get any contaminants to etch into the paint.

Waxes and polishes have been doing this for years. Polish is the best optical enhancer out there, but it is not durable at all. It requires a wax to protect the optical enhancements. Waxes vary in durability, but for the most part, they should be reapplied every month or two. Waxes and polishes also have nutrients that are very important to the paint which needs to oils to stay "alive". The more sun that the paint is exposed to, and the higher the temperature, the more often this needs to be reapplied.

These coatings that everyone is talking about still have to be reapplied, and the "paint correction" involved is the same process that is needed for a top quality shine from a wax. If you just apply wax, it will bead water, but the finish won't be as shiny as you could get. The coating folks are making their money on the correction end of the detail process which is invaluable for the best appearance. The actual coating that is put on, is just another version of wax when it all boils down.

I've seen the amount of money that is charged for these coatings. I'll stick with my Meguiar's process which can be done in about a half day and will last (with regular washings) for 2 months easy since the truck is in the garage. The paint on my '12 Tacoma was maintained in this fashion, and when I traded it in, looked better than the trucks on the new lot...and better than the 4Runner I bought. That has changed now, and the 4Runner is top shelf.

Go with what you are comfortable with, but make sure that the materials you are using are high quality, and you take your time. There is no one time and done solution for paint. And nothing will protect paint from impact or abrasions, except for the clear bra stuff, which is another rant entirely.

 

[engineeer]

They say it is but I don't know of anything that is wiped on and then off that could compare to something that is sprayed over a sanded surface, has multiple coats, sanded again and then polished to a shine. It costs around $50 to have your vehicle waxed. I saw a quote above for $1700. That's 34 waxes. If you pay $50 to have it waxed 4X/yr then you get 8 1/2 years of waxes.

In the end it's your money, do what you want. Just don't fall for a sales pitch. Do some research and if that research only has one source (forget testimonials), the guy selling it, think twice. Just trying to help.

I've been doing detailing for years. These "coatings" are just the flavor of the week. Nothing that is applied in this manner will provide a shield to protect the paint from impact and abrasions. All of these products are designed to "optically" improve the surface. They protect it by making it harder for surface contaminants to stick on the surface. The slicker the surface, the easier it is to clean, and the less likely that you will get any contaminants to etch into the paint.

Waxes and polishes have been doing this for years. Polish is the best optical enhancer out there, but it is not durable at all. It requires a wax to protect the optical enhancements. Waxes vary in durability, but for the most part, they should be reapplied every month or two. Waxes and polishes also have nutrients that are very important to the paint which needs to oils to stay "alive". The more sun that the paint is exposed to, and the higher the temperature, the more often this needs to be reapplied.

These coatings that everyone is talking about still have to be reapplied, and the "paint correction" involved is the same process that is needed for a top quality shine from a wax. If you just apply wax, it will bead water, but the finish won't be as shiny as you could get. The coating folks are making their money on the correction end of the detail process which is invaluable for the best appearance. The actual coating that is put on, is just another version of wax when it all boils down.

I've seen the amount of money that is charged for these coatings. I'll stick with my Meguiar's process which can be done in about a half day and will last (with regular washings) for 2 months easy since the truck is in the garage. The paint on my '12 Tacoma was maintained in this fashion, and when I traded it in, looked better than the trucks on the new lot...and better than the 4Runner I bought. That has changed now, and the 4Runner is top shelf.

Go with what you are comfortable with, but make sure that the materials you are using are high quality, and you take your time. There is no one time and done solution for paint.

Thanks guys--I appreciate the input.

I'm going to see if I can get my hands on small samples of each of these coatings and part of a car from a junkyard to run some tests of my own.

I think I may have been mistaken about what these coatings are. The very first detailer that I asked about these coatings said they go on and dry very similar to a clear coat (e.g. epoxy-like thickness) and that's why they work so well.

And nothing will protect paint from impact or abrasions, except for the clear bra stuff, which is another rant entirely.

I'd be interested in hearing this rant.

 

[1engineer]

Thanks guys--I appreciate the input.

I'm going to see if I can get my hands on small samples of each of these coatings and part of a car from a junkyard to run some tests of my own.

I think I may have been mistaken about what these coatings are. The very first detailer that I asked about these coatings said they go on and dry very similar to a clear coat (e.g. epoxy-like thickness) and that's why they work so well.



I'd be interested in hearing this rant.

The absolute best part of having super white is the ability to touch up the chips and scratches. The touch up paint always matches and fills the chip perfectly. From even a few feet away they just disappear.
This is my 3rd 5th gen 4Runner. I had black, silver and now white. Guess what... the other colors with the clear coat scratched and chipped just as easy as the white one.

 

[CanonShooter]

The absolute best part of having super white is the ability to touch up the chips and scratches. The touch up paint always matches and fills the chip perfectly. From even a few feet away they just disappear.
This is my 3rd 5th gen 4Runner. I had black, silver and now white. Guess what... the other colors with the clear coat scratched and chipped just as easy as the white one.

This!!! White is awesome when it comes to minor paint fixes. The clear does very little on the other colors, and I would actually prefer to have single stage paint on my vehicle the way I take care of it. Much easier to work with, and you have more material that can be buffed if needed. The clear is remarkably thin. Typical layers are 2 base coats and 1 clear coat. That give you one layer of material to work with before you have burned off the clear coat.

As far as my rant on the clear bra material (3M or the like)...the concept is great. You actually have a physical layer between your paint and any contaminants, or damaging materials that could scratch the paint. Based on that, I would say that you should wrap the whole vehicle and call it a day. However, there is bad with the good. If you are going to have the vehicle for just a few years, then this is the way to go. However, after those few years, you will start seeing buildup on the edges of the film, and if not applied exactly right, there will be bubbling which will show. Those bubbles will eventually dry and crack. This looks horrible!

The film only protects so much. I've had damage on every bit of 3M film that has come from the factory, on 5 Tacomas and 1 Xterra. All it takes is for one rock to hit the film, and it will start to peel and look terrible at the impact point. Sure, it would chip the paint, but that is what touch up paint is for. The things that tear through the film will also chip the paint. You are left touching up in the middle of a hole in the film. That amplifies the appearance of the damage. Sure, you could peel the film off and reapply, but with the touch up paint there, you will have an ugly bubble under the film...see problem with that above.

It is good for abrasions, and this is the best use for the clear bra stuff, as it seems to be self healing to a point...at least with branches and such.

On surfaces that are not completely smooth, over time, the film will yellow. Edges will get dark with dirt buildup which is a shame. My wife's silver Tacoma had the factory stuff on the side, and there was almost a mildew appearance to it within the first 3 years of ownership. It was not on the surface, and I was unable to clean it. We just had to deal with it, or have it stripped and replaced. On a white Taco I had, there was a small area at a crease where the film would not adhere. In a few years, that area had turned yellow, and the dirt had built up inside of the film.

For me, since I wash once ever week or two, and wax every month or two, I don't want the clear bra stuff on. I can work the paint into a shine with very little work, and I can repair chips with touch up paint easy enough. Scratches can be buffed out, unless they are too deep, and the 3M film won't prevent those scratches anyway.

I'm really not sure about the long term effect of the breathability with the paint either. Theoretically, it will cause the paint to cloud over time (the film will remain glossy though) due to no exposure. You will also be unable to restore the oils to the paint, but the film might keep the oils from escaping. I just haven't had any personal experience with the films for long term for this type of research. I just know that the film that comes from the factory starts to look bad long before the paint starts to show any age.

 

[engineeer]

The absolute best part of having super white is the ability to touch up the chips and scratches. The touch up paint always matches and fills the chip perfectly. From even a few feet away they just disappear.
This is my 3rd 5th gen 4Runner. I had black, silver and now white. Guess what... the other colors with the clear coat scratched and chipped just as easy as the white one.

Do you recommend the touchup paint that Toyota sells or something else?

 

[Brandonium]

Really depends on the film used. Not all PPF's are equal. I've been very happy with Xpel Ultimate. So far the front hasn't a single speck as far as road debris. That's the only reason I have it. Not a fan of road rash.

I detail once a month weather permitting. That's a wash and wax. I clay and polish once a year unless I have some really nasty road work happening that I have to frequently drive through. It's just as easy to wash a frequently waxed vehicle as it is one with $1700 worth of ceramic coating.

The film only protects so much. I've had damage on every bit of 3M film that has come from the factory, on 5 Tacomas and 1 Xterra. All it takes is for one rock to hit the film, and it will start to peel and look terrible at the impact point. Sure, it would chip the paint, but that is what touch up paint is for. The things that tear through the film will also chip the paint. You are left touching up in the middle of a hole in the film. That amplifies the appearance of the damage. Sure, you could peel the film off and reapply, but with the touch up paint there, you will have an ugly bubble under the film...see problem with that above.

 

[blefevre1]

No way I would ever pay that much to get a 4Runner coated. For reference, I paid $500 for wash, clay bar, Ceramic Pro coating, and interior detail. For me that was worth it because of the weather conditions I drive in year round. My original plan was to just do the typical yearly sealant + wax, but for the price I went with the coating. This way I will redo the coating every 3 years or so. I used to be the person spending the weekend cleaning their car to make it pretty for the week, but I just don't have time anymore. If the coating lasts more then a year then it's worth it to me for the time savings over multiple waxes.

For a second reference: I have also paid well over $1000 for Gtechniq coating on my black BMW. If done properly the slickness, shine, and hydrophobic properties of the coating will amaze you. So coating prices can vary drastically based on shop and materials. Much of the price difference is detail prep. The BMW had a full day of prep before coating. If you can get it done cheap then I say go for it. Worst case you go back to waxing / sealant when it wears off.

 

[bimrunner]

They say it is but I don't know of anything that is wiped on and then off that could compare to something that is sprayed over a sanded surface, has multiple coats, sanded again and then polished to a shine. It costs around $50 to have your vehicle waxed. I saw a quote above for $1700. That's 34 waxes. If you pay $50 to have it waxed 4X/yr then you get 8 1/2 years of waxes.

In the end it's your money, do what you want. Just don't fall for a sales pitch. Do some research and if that research only has one source (forget testimonials), the guy selling it, think twice. Just trying to help.

I polish mine by sanding it down with some good mountain dirt and mud and then rub really well with organic brush and tree limbs. It's amazing what it will do for the finish.

Edit: when that fails, try a good granite slab. Buffs everything off good.

 

[Auburn]

Cquartz uk 3.0 on super white

Just purchased a 2019 TRD off road. Brought it home from the dealer, 11 miles. Did a very thorough wash and dry. Let it set overnight and inspected the paint the next day. Touched up any spots that were not perfectly clean. Since the truck was new, no need to claybar.

Proceeded with the cquartz uk 3.0 application as stated in the instruction but using 3 micro fibers to buff, the yellow one that came with the kit first, then a blue one, then a final wipe with third white micro fiber.

Once done took a 30 minute break. Then went back for a second complete coat.

Coated the black valances as well but not the grill garnish.

Let car sit for 7 days.

Temps during application 68 degrees, 35 percent humidity.

Very happy with results

 

[macscac]

They say it is but I don't know of anything that is wiped on and then off that could compare to something that is sprayed over a sanded surface, has multiple coats, sanded again and then polished to a shine. It costs around $50 to have your vehicle waxed. I saw a quote above for $1700. That's 34 waxes. If you pay $50 to have it waxed 4X/yr then you get 8 1/2 years of waxes.

In the end it's your money, do what you want. Just don't fall for a sales pitch. Do some research and if that research only has one source (forget testimonials), the guy selling it, think twice. Just trying to help.

this!

all these knuckleheads paying 1k for a 'ceramic nano coating' (especially for a freaking 4rnr!) need to be parted with their money.

wash the car properly. wax it regularly and your car will look just as good if not better than the people rubbing the snake oil on their paint

 

[macscac]

Just purchased a 2019 TRD off road. Brought it home from the dealer, 11 miles. Did a very thorough wash and dry. Let it set overnight and inspected the paint the next day. Touched up any spots that were not perfectly clean. Since the truck was new, no need to claybar.

Proceeded with the cquartz uk 3.0 application as stated in the instruction but using 3 micro fibers to buff, the yellow one that came with the kit first, then a blue one, then a final wipe with third white micro fiber.

Once done took a 30 minute break. Then went back for a second complete coat.

Coated the black valances as well but not the grill garnish.

Let car sit for 7 days.

Temps during application 68 degrees, 35 percent humidity.

Very happy with results

your car looks exactly like mine from 10 feet away and i wash mine with cactus spines and desert dust.

 

[Auburn]

Love your post

I doubt i will see any dust or catcus on the east coast, maybe some pollen while driving across the grass in the back yard to get to the vineyard.

Bet i dont have to cut the grass first with this new rig. Lol

 

[macscac]

Love your post

I doubt i will see any dust or catcus on the east coast, maybe some pollen while driving across the grass in the back yard to get to the vineyard.

Bet i dont have to cut the grass first with this new rig. Lol

the pollen is strong this year too!

 

[Louisiana Overland]

My rig actually gets taken on trails, and more often than not I have a few “pin stripes” to polish out when I return home. I just cannot justify spending a big chunck of cash that I will eventually be buffing off in sections after a trip.

...but...

I recently began using a new Meguiars product that beats anything I have ever seen. Its a spray on(all surfaces) and wipe off and it finishes off as super glossy and hydrophobic. The 4r air dries at highway speed. The stuff is called Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax. Stocked at wmart for about $15 per bottle. You wash and rinse the vehicle and leave it wet...in the shade of course. Then apply the initial coat. I apply by spraying into a wet microfiber cloth and wiping on a panel at a time and then dry with a clean dry microfiber towel. Theres no real buffing or hazing over, no smudging or dust, or effort really other than the time it takes to wipe a cloth over the vehicle twice. After the initial coat they say you can spray it on a clean rinsed vehicle and then rinse again and dry to maintain the protection. My runner is silver and the gloss is phenominal. The water beading and blowing off keeps it looking clean longer between washes. Im sold on it. And FWIW, I got just as impressive results on my gal’s pearl white lexus.

 

[Mantilgh]

Good statement olbond! They will make maintaining it easier, but you still have keep up with it to keep contaminants from bonding.

I agree with Louisiana Overland too. The Megs Hybrid Ceramic Wax is pretty good. I’ve been doing the wipe on/buff off method and is surprisingly durable and beads great. Have to watch over application on darker cars because it can be a little streaky but usually buffs out easily.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Aussie2233]

I had my 2016 super white coated with Ceramic Pro. It's only been two months so I can't really comment on the durability, but so far I have no complaints. I mentioned the theory of no clear / mixed clear on white 4Runners and the detail shop wasn't familiar with it but they have done multiple white 4Runners / Tacomas without issue.

do you still have the super white? if so hows it holding up? worth ceramic coat?

 

[blefevre1]

do you still have the super white? if so hows it holding up? worth ceramic coat?

Yes, I still have it. The ceramic coat has held up nicely, but it's about due for another application. It doesn't bead water off as nicely as before, but it's still smooth to the touch like wax is. It has spent it's entire life outside the garage so I am really impressed overall.

 

[dpacifico13]

I ceramic coated my super white ORP the day after i picked it up from the dealer. I used cquartz uk 3.0 as I do with all my other vehicles and it's holding up great - makes cleaning the vehicle a breeze. After every two washes I use their reload spray, it's an siO2 based coating which helps upkeep the hydrophobic properties.

 

[Espresso_OI]

I ceramic coated my super white ORP the day after i picked it up from the dealer. I used cquartz uk 3.0 as I do with all my other vehicles and it's holding up great - makes cleaning the vehicle a breeze. After every two washes I use their reload spray, it's an siO2 based coating which helps upkeep the hydrophobic properties.

Out of curiosity - are you doing this by hand or with an orbital?

 

[actionindex]

I did an opticoat+ on my super white 4runner and it's held up great! One of the reasons I decided to do the coating because of the single stage nature of our paint.