HerbVick
New member
Just a follow up to the broken fuse story.
Got the 140A Alt fuse to replace the broken one mentioned in the previous post. Cost $16 and change.
Tried to install it myself. Since this fuse is 140 amps, it's prongs are secured tightly to their contactors by hex head nuts on studs passing through holes in the prongs on the fuse.
Has anyone on this board tried to install a fuse in one of these vehicles, other than the fuses that slip in and out of friction contacts from the top?
I found the job of changing this fuse to be next to impossible! But, I didn't have any maintenance guide to help. I was trying to figure it out as I went.
The fuse box within the engine compartment has in it a black plastic matrix or framework for holding the various fuses. Lifting the framework to gain access to the 140A Alt fuse wasn't easy. There were two large cable bundles entering the fuse box on the fender side, and two small cables on the engine side. One of the cables on the engine side went to the top of the fuse holder block where it looped over a terminal stud secured with a hex nut. This wire seemed to be from the positive side of the battery, so after removing the positive terminal from the battery, I then removed this wire from the fuse holder block. Then I removed the plastic saddle clamp that held this positive wire to the side of the fuse holder block. After releasing all of the locking tabs around the fuse holder block with a screwdriver inserted into the right spots, I could pull it up out of the fuse box to try to gain access to the 140A Alt fuse.
This is where things got difficult. The two cable bundles entering the fuse box from the fender side were connected to the fuse holder block underneath. Pulling this assembly up was also pulling those cable bundles more taunt, and it was already tight with everything still in the fuse box. I could clear the top of the box on the engine side, but not on the fender side. I could get to and remove the hex nut on the south side of the fuse (away from the lights), but the one on the north side was buried in the middle of the fuse holder block. There was no way to get to it.
So, I gave up and put it all back together. That proved to be difficult as well. The fuse holder block near the fender seemed to be bent underneath and would not go back into the same position that it came from, which meant that it was going to be sticking up out of the fuse box making it impossibe to put the lid on. I finally managed to get it into the right spot by pulling it high with a pair of Channel-Lock pliars just over that corner with one hand and poking underneath it with a screwdriver with the other hand. I think I had the flashlight in my mouth.
So, HOW DOES ANYONE CHANGE THESE FUSES?
I actually soildered the broken fuse together in order to get my truck working reliably. That is not an acceptable solution, but I'm thinking that if it is this difficult, it will cost me $150 to get the fuse changed at a dealer! And, if the mechanic has as much trouble as I did just putting the box back together, it could be worse.
Got the 140A Alt fuse to replace the broken one mentioned in the previous post. Cost $16 and change.
Tried to install it myself. Since this fuse is 140 amps, it's prongs are secured tightly to their contactors by hex head nuts on studs passing through holes in the prongs on the fuse.
Has anyone on this board tried to install a fuse in one of these vehicles, other than the fuses that slip in and out of friction contacts from the top?
I found the job of changing this fuse to be next to impossible! But, I didn't have any maintenance guide to help. I was trying to figure it out as I went.
The fuse box within the engine compartment has in it a black plastic matrix or framework for holding the various fuses. Lifting the framework to gain access to the 140A Alt fuse wasn't easy. There were two large cable bundles entering the fuse box on the fender side, and two small cables on the engine side. One of the cables on the engine side went to the top of the fuse holder block where it looped over a terminal stud secured with a hex nut. This wire seemed to be from the positive side of the battery, so after removing the positive terminal from the battery, I then removed this wire from the fuse holder block. Then I removed the plastic saddle clamp that held this positive wire to the side of the fuse holder block. After releasing all of the locking tabs around the fuse holder block with a screwdriver inserted into the right spots, I could pull it up out of the fuse box to try to gain access to the 140A Alt fuse.
This is where things got difficult. The two cable bundles entering the fuse box from the fender side were connected to the fuse holder block underneath. Pulling this assembly up was also pulling those cable bundles more taunt, and it was already tight with everything still in the fuse box. I could clear the top of the box on the engine side, but not on the fender side. I could get to and remove the hex nut on the south side of the fuse (away from the lights), but the one on the north side was buried in the middle of the fuse holder block. There was no way to get to it.
So, I gave up and put it all back together. That proved to be difficult as well. The fuse holder block near the fender seemed to be bent underneath and would not go back into the same position that it came from, which meant that it was going to be sticking up out of the fuse box making it impossibe to put the lid on. I finally managed to get it into the right spot by pulling it high with a pair of Channel-Lock pliars just over that corner with one hand and poking underneath it with a screwdriver with the other hand. I think I had the flashlight in my mouth.
So, HOW DOES ANYONE CHANGE THESE FUSES?
I actually soildered the broken fuse together in order to get my truck working reliably. That is not an acceptable solution, but I'm thinking that if it is this difficult, it will cost me $150 to get the fuse changed at a dealer! And, if the mechanic has as much trouble as I did just putting the box back together, it could be worse.