Check Engine light & VSC trac and VSC Off - ALL ON

[RunnerJeff]

Okay guys about a week ago my my check engine light, VSC trac and VSC off lights all came on. As usual I took it to AutoZone and had the codes read and cleared. 20-25 miles down the road, the lights come back on. I take it to a shop that offers free full diagnostic check and they told me my circuit board for my air flow sensors were bad and that my catalytic converters were insufficient, but they weren't affecting the performance of my car. I replaced the air flow sensors and circuit board. To replace the CATS it would cost me around $1800 bucks and I am not doing that as of now. I have read on other posts to replace both O2 sensors after the CATS, I did that and reset the lights, 20-25 miles down the road, they came back on. PITA!!!

I realized the check engine light will stay on due to the CATS, but is there anyway I can get the VSC trac and VSC lights to turn off. I feel like with the lights on, those parts are engaged/disengaged on my vehicle.

Second, If there is a cheap replacement for my CATS, feel free to let me know!!

 

[THE MACF]

Is it the front or rear cats?

 

[RunnerJeff]

Is it the front or rear cats?

It's the front CATS.

 

[ice2000]

Have you check the gas cap? I had to replace mine.

 

[RunnerJeff]

Have you check the gas cap? I had to replace mine.

Yes, that was one of the first things I checked. The shop I took it too said I had to replace my CATS for the lights to go off. I was hoping someone on here would have a better/cheaper solution for that problems. I don't feel like dropping $2000 on catalytic convertors that are inefficient, not causing performance problems.

 

[imboredeveryday]

to be honest with you the only way around not putting new cats on it is if you are in a non emmison state and put on long tube headers with a simulato that will trick the computer that it is all there and all the lights will go off but there is no way to just shut thoes lights off and not the ck eng light

 

[THE MACF]

to be honest with you the only way around not putting new cats on it is if you are in a non emmison state and put on long tube headers with a simulato that will trick the computer that it is all there and all the lights will go off but there is no way to just shut thoes lights off and not the ck eng light

That's what I was thinking. If it was the rear cats you could just reset it and not worry about it. Check out URDUSA.com they have an o2 sim for cheap and make fantastic products.

 

[RunnerJeff]

That's what I was thinking. If it was the rear cats you could just reset it and not worry about it. Check out URDUSA.com they have an o2 sim for cheap and make fantastic products.

Do you know is anyone else has used that product? That would be great and the cost of my new O2 sensors I bought, that I will now take back and use that money to get the simulator.

 

[THE MACF]

Do you know is anyone else has used that product? That would be great and the cost of my new O2 sensors I bought, that I will now take back and use that money to get the simulator.

I used their first gen o2 sim that was cut and splice on my 330rwhp X-Runner when I was running longtubes and no cats at all. The new one is plug and play so easy install and removal. Call the 800 and press 2 for Gadget (Steve) He's the man and will not hang up until you're completely satisfied.

Just realized you're in a 4th gen. It's the same 1gr as in the X-Runner. You won't have any problems at all. Get a scan gauge too. Worth it's weight in gold.

 

[RunnerJeff]

I used their first gen o2 sim that was cut and splice on my 330rwhp X-Runner when I was running longtubes and no cats at all. The new one is plug and play so easy install and removal. Call the 800 and press 2 for Gadget (Steve) He's the man and will not hang up until you're completely satisfied.

Just realized you're in a 4th gen. It's the same 1gr as in the X-Runner. You won't have any problems at all. Get a scan gauge too. Worth it's weight in gold.

I was actually thinking about getting that SCAN GAUGE II. Is it really worth it though? What all does it read/do to the computer.

btw - just ordered that simulator, should be here this week!!

 

[imboredeveryday]

ya i have the long tubes on my x-r which is the same 1gr and i have the old simulator no issues and i wish i had the new simulator so you will be fine all the x-runner guys use them never have had issues

 

[THE MACF]

I used my scan gauge everyday. Not only does it scan and clear codes, I had mine set up for instant mpg, distance to empty, gallons used (have to run your tank dry) and intake air temps. I lived in Florida.

If you're running bigger tires you can readjust your speed, accurate engine rpms, and a bunch of other stuff. It's worth it.

 

[RunnerJeff]

I think I may just have to get that Scan Gauge, it seems awesome and for my travels it seems like it would work wonders!

 

[RunnerJeff]

I realized the check engine light will stay on due to the CATS, but is there anyway I can get the VSC trac and VSC lights to turn off. I feel like with the lights on, those parts are engaged/disengaged on my vehicle.

From what I have learned on here, getting the simulator will fix all problems, even the check engine light. From my experience yesterday, we had a ton of rain, those parts are engaged when the lights are on. It's really tricky driving in the rain when you think your vehicle is running normal. I suggest getting the simulator that was posted earlier in this thread. Ordered mine last night and it has already shipped out.

 

[liqourish]

use a long metal stabing object and thrust into your front cats. then install the 02 sim. otherwise if theres a clog, you wont know it until your engine burns up or something worst.

 

[RunnerJeff]

use a long metal stabing object and thrust into your front cats. then install the 02 sim. otherwise if theres a clog, you wont know it until your engine burns up or something worst.

The shop I took it to cleaned my cats. They just told me they were inefficient, not causing performance problems, but not being beneficial either.

 

[RunnerJeff]

Well I am back at square one. I had the simulator installed for about 2-3 weeks now and all my lights came back on. Should I install new CATS or is my simulator bad?

 

[thorrunner]

Yes, that was one of the first things I checked. The shop I took it too said I had to replace my CATS for the lights to go off. I was hoping someone on here would have a better/cheaper solution for that problems. I don't feel like dropping $2000 on catalytic convertors that are inefficient, not causing performance problems.

How did you check it? Did you replace it or just check the spring tension? I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the gas cap after all, even though the tension 'felt' ok..... It could be a really cheap fix, good luck!

 

[RunnerJeff]

How did you check it? Did you replace it or just check the spring tension? I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the gas cap after all, even though the tension 'felt' ok..... It could be a really cheap fix, good luck!

I used the diagnostic tool to check the codes. It came up as bad CATs which gave the O2 sensors a bad reading. I have checked my gas cap plenty of times, lol.

 

[thorrunner]

I used the diagnostic tool to check the codes. It came up as bad CATs which gave the O2 sensors a bad reading. I have checked my gas cap plenty of times, lol.

Bummer... wasn't there a bunch of threads going around about a TSB for the cats and dealers replacing them up to 80k? Anyway, good luck!