"Choose from 3 Drives: 4x2, part-time 4WD, full-time 4WD"

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I'm not sure I understand the differences between these 3:

(1) 4x2 (RWD) has limited slip differential. OK.

(2) part-time 4WD does not have limited slip differential?

(3) full-time 4WD has a locking center differential. How about limited slip differentials?

I am thinking of going with option (2), and I'm wondering if (2) is in some aspects inferior to (1). I can't afford a Limited (option (3))
 
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I'm not sure I understand the differences between these 3:

(1) 4x2 (RWD) has limited slip differential. OK.

(2) part-time 4WD does not have limited slip differential?

(3) full-time 4WD has a locking center differential. How about limited slip differentials?

I am thinking of going with option (2), and I'm wondering if (2) is in some aspects inferior to (1). I can't afford a Limited (option (3))

Please read the link in my signature for full descriptions of each.
 
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I'm not sure I understand the differences between these 3:

(1) 4x2 (RWD) has limited slip differential. OK.

(2) part-time 4WD does not have limited slip differential?

(3) full-time 4WD has a locking center differential. How about limited slip differentials?

I am thinking of going with option (2), and I'm wondering if (2) is in some aspects inferior to (1). I can't afford a Limited (option (3))

for your location I would say the SR5 4x4 or if you can afford it the SR5 4x4 premium. unless your going to do medium off roading get the TE, low/mild off roading prob the SR5 to keep within your budget.
 
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I'm not sure I understand the differences between these 3:

(1) 4x2 (RWD) has limited slip differential. OK.

(2) part-time 4WD does not have limited slip differential?

(3) full-time 4WD has a locking center differential. How about limited slip differentials?

I am thinking of going with option (2), and I'm wondering if (2) is in some aspects inferior to (1). I can't afford a Limited (option (3))

If you look at the "Part-Time 4WD: There When You Need It, Not When You Don’t" section of [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] 's post.. you will see a lot better explanation of the way the 4runner operates. I agree with [MENTION=1032]NoDak[/MENTION] above. You have posted a few other places on the forums, and I think that you would be best to go with an SR5 4x4. But ultimately it is your decision.

It is not as simple as "it does"/"does not" have limited slip differential. The SR5 and Trail versions have "part time" 4wd, that is activate by a mechanical gear shifter. The Limited has "full time" 4wd.

Both the trail and the SR5 4x4 have ATRAC, but the trail has a "multi-mode" dial for the ATRAC that you can select different terrain choices for the ATRAC to react differently on different terrain, or you can turn it off. The SR5 has just one standard setting for ATRAC, and is either on or off.

The trail has an option to have KDSS. The SR5 does not.

The trail has "Crawl Control" (a low speed "auto drive" function), the SR5 does not.

The trail has a button activated electronic rear differential lock. The SR5 does not.


If you decide, you can also go with a "Premium" level on the SR5 and the Trail Edition, and it adds other features, like sunroof and some other sound system/navigation upgrades.

If anyone sees something wrong here with my description let me know.

There might be some options that can be had with SR5 I am not aware of, but I think I got it right.
 
premium designator only adds creature comforts, not else to a base SR5 or TE.

SR5
SR5 prem
TE
TE prem
LE

those are the trim levels across the board currently. from cheapest to most expensive baseline.
 
I found myself using the rear locker when ATRAC was taking too long to figure itself out last week. Definitely glad I have it... I would say this was in a tougher offroad situation though. I don't know if you plan on getting into sticky situations often... But if you stand by the better to have it and not need it philosophy... A trail is worth the premium.
 
for your location I would say the SR5 4x4 or if you can afford it the SR5 4x4 premium. unless your going to do medium off roading get the TE, low/mild off roading prob the SR5 to keep within your budget.

I think there is a misconception that California is all beaches and sunshine. There are plenty of challenging mountain roads, and plenty of snow in winter if want it.
 
I think that you should know that part-time 4x4 should not be engaged on dry pavement and you have to drive in 4x4 mode at least 10 miles every month to get transfer case lubricated.
 
I think that you should know that part-time 4x4 should not be engaged on dry pavement and you have to drive in 4x4 mode at least 10 miles every month to get transfer case lubricated.

There is a total misconception there about not being engaged on dry pavement.

It is perfectly fine to drive in 4hi on dry pavement as long as you are not making slow (tight turns). General rule of thumb I found to work well is; If you are going over 30mph in the turn, 4hi is fine. If you need to go slower to make the turn (like making a turn at a T intersection) you will get some bind without going back to 2h first on dry pavement.

The need to go into 4x4 for at least 10 miles every month is just a guide. You could go a year and probably be fine (I know of 4 runners that did not see 4hi for years). It just helps keep the tcase chain lubed.
 
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There is a total misconception there about not being engaged on dry pavement.

It is perfectly fine to drive in 4hi on dry pavement as long as you are not making slow (tight turns). General rule of thumb I found to work well is; If you are going over 30mph in the turn, 4hi is fine. If you need to go slower to make the turn (like making a turn at a T intersection) you will get some bind without going back to 2h first on dry pavement.

The need to go into 4x4 for at least 10 miles every month is just a guide. You could go a year and probably be fine (I know of 4 runners that did not see 4hi for years). It just helps keep the tcase chain lubed.

Yes and no... on some of that.

I'd have to double check things a bit more in terms of the 5th gens (but it should apply since most of the cases are variations of each other with little difference in certain core aspects) but the 4th Gen cases benefited from the T3 Torsen Differential being able to mitigate some of the binding in 4Hi running. Most of the cases on the 5th Gen that do not have the T3 Torsen should still be okay to drive on pavement, but they will more than likely exhibit binding on tighter turns as the system won't bias it as well.

Most V6 4th gen guys just run their 4Runners in 4Hi regularly without issue, I believe some 5th gen guys do the same. There is a slight bit of difference between how the "All-Time 4WD" is set-up vs. the "Part-Time 4WD" transfer cases in the 5th gen, but its mostly because of the 3-4 different case variations there are; principally its still roughly the same as it was with the 4th Gen "All-Time 4WD" vs. the "Part-Time 4WD" set-up.

The more critical thing to mention here is that the whole "shift it into 4WD every month or so" guideline is mainly due to the 4th Gen's electronic shifting system in order to make sure the ADD & Transfer Case actuator does not seize/leak; his carried over to the 5th gens since the transfercases are basically from the same family and utilize the same methods of engaging (ADD on the front axle, ect.) It should still be exercised on 5th gens, though its not as critical on most of the transfer cases as they lack a Transfer Case Actutor (though you should still exercise the ADD on the front axles to be safe.) The idea being that exercising the 4WD system through its ranges and CDL (Center Differential Lock) will help lubricate the actuator o-ring and keep it from binding up (an expensive and sometimes common issue with oft unused 4WD 4th gens.) Sorry if that seems a bit rambly... this cold I have is making my head a bit fuzzy.

Post Note-
The LSD isn't something you really care about Off-Road as you want a more "On/Off" control of a Locker. Its thrown in on most of our 2WD Trucks because it provides better on-road handling than an open axle.
 
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It sounds like you are getting more serious about maybe getting the 4Runner and doing some 4 wheeling. I recently rejoined the hobby after almost 30 years away from it. You should seriously take a luck at joining a local 4WD/ORV club. I'm sure California is overrun with them. They usually setup regular meets at local areas and will break down into groups ranging from rookies to hard core rock crawlers, and run trails that match the skill levels of the drivers. It is a lot of fun, and actually more fun to go with a group than by yourself this way. And you can learn a lot from watching the other drivers. From what you have described of your experience, skill level, and intended use, the SR5 would be fine for your intended purpose. I bought a Trail because I wanted the locking rear differential. And I'm old school so I wanted the shifter handle for the transfer case. But the SR5 is fully as capable as the old CJ-5 I drove in the late 70's.
 
The more critical thing to mention here is that the whole "shift it into 4WD every month or so" guideline is mainly due to the 4th Gen's electronic shifting system in order to make sure the ADD & Transfer Case actuator does not seize/leak; his carried over to the 5th gens since the transfercases are basically from the same family and utilize the same methods of engaging (ADD on the front axle, ect.) It should still be exercised on 5th gens, though its not as critical on most of the transfer cases as they lack a Transfer Case Actutor (though you should still exercise the ADD on the front axles to be safe.)
To note: As of 2013, SR5s are back to the button and actuator for the transfer case, only Trail Editions still have a lever.
 
I would recommend getting a 4x4 over 4x2. SR5, Trail, Limited matters not just depends on yours preferences and how much cash you are willing to spend for features etc. I think most average consumers do not understand and are to worried about using part time 4x4 cases on the road (they think its a stuck in the mud feature)
 
To note: As of 2013, SR5s are back to the button and actuator for the transfer case, only Trail Editions still have a lever.

The two features that are my favorite:

*Level actuated case that moves/vibrates when the truck starts/is running
*Rear window that rolls down
 
To note: As of 2013, SR5s are back to the button and actuator for the transfer case, only Trail Editions still have a lever.

I just want to confirm what I think you guys are saying...a 2013+ trail edition has less of a need to shift to 4 wheel drive for at least 10 miles per month compared to the other models??
 
My neighbor told me that his GMC (RWD?) work truck has the same "binding" problem, and he can do nothing about it. It is very surprising that manufacturers would sell vehicles with this fundamental flaw.
 
My neighbor told me that his GMC (RWD?) work truck has the same "binding" problem, and he can do nothing about it. It is very surprising that manufacturers would sell vehicles with this fundamental flaw.

It is not a flaw it is a characteristic of part time 4WD. If you want to spend more get a full time 4WD and no more problem.
 
I just want to confirm what I think you guys are saying...a 2013+ trail edition has less of a need to shift to 4 wheel drive for at least 10 miles per month compared to the other models??
No. 2010+ TEs and 2010-2012 SR5s have a lever actuated transfer case, but they also have an electronic front axle disconnect which needs to be exercised. 2013+ SR5s have an electronically actuated transfer case AND the ADD, which both need to be exercised. 2010+ Limiteds do not have the ADD (full time AWD), but have the electronic transfer case actuator which needs to be exercised.
 
It is not a flaw it is a characteristic of part time 4WD. If you want to spend more get a full time 4WD and no more problem.

Right. That means that, If I am driving on a mountain road in rain, I cannot switch to 4WD, I have to stay in RWD. Basically, 4WD is strictly for off-roading.
 

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