Cleaning the MAF

I think it was p1172 or something like that.

I CLEANED THE HELL OUT OF MY.
the stealership wanted $300 to change plugs, wires.
HAHAHAHA

I spent maybe $100 on OEM wires, Denso Plugs (dual plat) and cleaned the MAF.
I took the neg batt post off 1st of course.

i get WAYYYY better gas mileage

4runDiZZLe said:
i agree w/ you BTLFED "if it ain't broke don't fix it" HOWEVER mine was "broke"... it was throwing up that P code (can't remember which one. but i cleaned it out with ELECTRIC PARTS CLEANER and i have not had a problem since... going on 12,000 miles since cleaning... no more codes popping up...
 
i dont want to sound like an echo but i have gone through all of this too. i stipped the crap out of those little screws and i was just dumb dumb dee dumb dumb and ended up buying a hole new MAF. :bonk: yeah then they invented the dremel to me anyway... haha. but yes be careful with those
so ive got a quick qustion i have this stuff you have pictured and used it to clean the throttle body would this be a bad thing? :nono:
 
QSVeilside said:
Yep. That's the stuff to use. Just did mine a week ago.

Hexane is extremely hydrophobic which makes it toxic and carcinogenic. Make sure you glove your hands when working with it and don't inhale the vapors. Don't pu$$yfoot around with the spray. Put the MAF on a piece of cloth you will toss and go full blast. The pressure alone will push most of the dirt off.

Be sure to blast the two wires, the inside of the ring and INSIDE of the tube.

Great results. Haven't done this in over 30,000 miles. Power and MPG went up.

Ooh, so I shouldn't have held the MAF sensor in my bare hand, while I sprayed it several times, then worked for another couple of hours before washing my hands?

Good to know.:bash:
 
Something being hydrophobic DOES NOT mean its a carcinogen! Get it straight.

Look at the roots of the work. Hydrophobic = afraid of water. You want an example, cooking oil is hydrophobic.

If hexane is an ingredient , then it can be toxic and precautions should be taken to limit exposure. Check it out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexane
 
toytech76 said:
Do not use electrical contact cleaner. Use ONLY mass air flow cleaner or brake kleen since both evaporate and dry clean and fast. Any kind of residue will screw with the sensor


you are severely mistaken. brake kleen will leave a residue, not CONTACT cleaner

we used contact/circuit board cleaner all the time at the dealership to clean the MAF
 
So I think I'm just about to do this today.

I have a can of both Throttle Body Cleaner and Carb cleaner at home, as well as electrical contact cleaner.

So what should I use, the electrical contact cleaner?
 
Use ELECTRONIC/CIRCUIT BOARD CLEANER ONLY

the sensor is nothing but a two exposed wires connected to an electrode, why would you use anything but electronic contact cleaner?
 
i dont know if i just missed it but its probably a good idea to un hook your negative terminal on your battery when doing this??? i just got the famous 3 lights of death... again... the 3rd time and the last, :bonk: im seriously never touching anything on my throttle body/ MAF any electrical thing again! anything that will throw a code is no beuno for me. this time its a fuel pressure, MAF acting up, or something. boo! but yeah i tried cleaning it with the MAF cleaner but i guess my truck liked it the way it was. grrrr!
 
GottaBeTRD said:
i dont know if i just missed it but its probably a good idea to un hook your negative terminal on your battery when doing this??? i just got the famous 3 lights of death... again... the 3rd time and the last, :bonk: im seriously never touching anything on my throttle body/ MAF any electrical thing again! anything that will throw a code is no beuno for me. this time its a fuel pressure, MAF acting up, or something. boo! but yeah i tried cleaning it with the MAF cleaner but i guess my truck liked it the way it was. grrrr!


pop off the negative terminal for about a minute to clear the computer's memory and then try again
 
agreed, ive tried it a couple times and the light came back on so this time i unhooked it, disonnected the MAF and waited for over a minute and put it all back on. i haven't got a light yet, but the second time i started it you can tell it had a vacuum leak or something cause it almost sounded like a truck form the 1960's all sputtering and all. Does it make a difference with the time you leave the battery unhooked? I tell you what if this wasn't a toyota im sure it wouldnt even be running right now. Ive gotta stop attempting doing these DIY things, cause it seems everytime it ends up throwing my favorite lights. Still, This time i was extra careful and did everything step by step. And anoteher question, do you need to have the MAF sensor at a certain angle to spray it? im almost worried that i sprayed it wrong?? leave it to me to worry everybody else! ill sure find a way to do it wrong!!!! :bigok:
 
GottaBeTRD said:
agreed, ive tried it a couple times and the light came back on so this time i unhooked it, disonnected the MAF and waited for over a minute and put it all back on. i haven't got a light yet, but the second time i started it you can tell it had a vacuum leak or something cause it almost sounded like a truck form the 1960's all sputtering and all. Does it make a difference with the time you leave the battery unhooked? I tell you what if this wasn't a toyota im sure it wouldnt even be running right now. Ive gotta stop attempting doing these DIY things, cause it seems everytime it ends up throwing my favorite lights. Still, This time i was extra careful and did everything step by step. And anoteher question, do you need to have the MAF sensor at a certain angle to spray it? im almost worried that i sprayed it wrong?? leave it to me to worry everybody else! ill sure find a way to do it wrong!!!! :bigok:


Maybe there is a vacuum leak, make sure the MAF is flush with it's housing. Check all the intake manifold hoses.
There really isn't a wrong or right way to clean it. Remove it, spray it generously, allow it to dry, re-install.
What type of solvent did you use to clean it?
 
yeah its on my volant intake tube, I took it off today and checked to make sure i didn't bust some of those wires and im pretty sure its flush, ( i was trying to be extra careful. I used the stuff pictured on the first page, the MAF cleaner in the grey can. i let it dry for like 2 hours before i started her up. Ive checked all the hoses like 5 times today... and 5 more times yesterday. i dont know i think my truck has got a personality of its own. everytime i unplug something or do something so simple ill get the lights. so far i havn't had them come on today so im hoping that its been fixed. thanks for your help though im seriously starting to hate those lights:love:
 
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ok fellas, i was just dumb and didn't tighen the gas cap after i filled up. i think i got side tracked by a hot girl or something. no more lights all is well! :bigok:
 
Stripping the screws is very easy. I used a dremel to cut a groove and got them out. I then found the best replacement at Home Depot
Part number 30699-82558 4mmx10mm cap screw with socket head
I can now use a hex wrench and never strip them again.

wow that was the same tread i followed too..but i got a little to antsy when i took it out and just started spraying..didnt bother looking back at the tread to see what else was needed

as for the screws...thank you so much.

ill go buy it tomroo, take off the sensor again redo the spray and install the new screws..thanks
 
thank you

Thank you for the threads; I clean up my sister's truck today. MAF was trowing codes P0171 and P0420. Here is some of the data from the freeze data:
Frame 1 Mod#1
P0171
rpm: 2140 Load=41.5% temp=194F intake temp=51F speed=43mph
fuel system 1=CLSD fuel system 2=n/a
short term fuel trim1=0.7%
long term fuel trim1=37.5%
short term fuel trim2=-100.6%
long term fuel trim2=-100.6%

Clean it up the MAF, truck passed NJ inspection.Light came back after leaving inspection station. I failed to clean the two wires completely. The two wires were covered by dirt and now are silver, pvc was old and stuck open, intake was covered by crude. Air filter was clogged.
Hope this will help someone, thank God truck is Ok now.:wink2:
 
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Just did this to the MAF today. VERY dirty! I will never ever install a K&N again. Amazing how much fine dust gets through.
 
Just did this to the MAF today. VERY dirty! I will never ever install a K&N again. Amazing how much fine dust gets through.

is your K&N in the stock airbox or a CAI??

and who cares about fine dust... I didnt tighten my K&N down enough and forgot to do it before I went 4wheeling, I sucked up hours of dirt and dust and my 4runner still ran fine, I do have an intermittent low idle, but hours of dirt sucked into the engine and the worst problem I have is to clean my MAF and my IAC valve? I love toyotas!

I had never cleaned the MAF before, and Im at 195k so I figured I might as well do that,

with a K&N CAI all you have to do is take off this and spray in the hole and around the assembly... super easy

I was shocked at how smooth and how much more power I had after doing this...
 

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