Clownmeat's build thread

[poleclimber63]

Got the transmission issue figured out. After thinking about it for a couple days and making some phone calls it was a pretty easy decision.

I did the paddle shift project on the auto because it was as close to a manual as I could get at the time and it got me by for years, but it's just not the same as grabbing gears. Now that the auto was failing it was a sign to make the truck the way I always wanted it.

Local salvage yard had a R150F out of a 99 4Runner with 130k on it with transfercase, bell housing, shifters and everything for cheap.



Grabbed a clutch pedal assembly while I was there too.


Drilled through the firewall and mounted the pedal and master cylinder.





Picked up the clutch lines from my local Toyota dealer and found a slave clinder.


Floor cut out and temporary shifter because it's my daily driver.



New clutch kit.



Longer bell housing bolts.


5spd trans mount.



Auto out and put away for another day.



Everything went pretty smooth. Took about 5 hours from start to finish. So much more fun to drive, turbocharger + 5spd = amazing.

Wow!!! Absolutely love it!! Nothing like being decisive! Just curious, did you swap the ECU or what?

Just awesome!

 

[Clownmeat]

Wow!!! Absolutely love it!! Nothing like being decisive! Just curious, did you swap the ECU or what?

Just awesome!

No, I didn't swap the ECU. Just had to connect two wires together so it will start now.

 

[Clownmeat]

The shift boot hasn't been cooperating and I believe it's from having a 2" body lift. Had to pull against it pretty hard to hit 2nd and reverse. Got around to fixing it tonight.

Removed the lower piece that comes stapled to the upper boot and tossed it aside.

Then I had to cut out the center divider in the top metal piece that holds everything down. Where it fits best the forward right hole lines up with an existing bolt hole and then I just drilled the other three and it's all good now.

 

[poleclimber63]

No, I didn't swap the ECU. Just had to connect two wires together so it will start now.

Right!

Yah, sorry, I saw on another later post you removed the CEL bulb...

This is definitely a subject of discussion among the group of members that have done the conversion...

to ignore the CEL (or remove the bulb) OR swap the ECU/ECM for a manual and re-pin the engine harness....

 

[Clownmeat]

Right!

Yah, sorry, I saw on another later post you removed the CEL bulb...

This is definitely a subject of discussion among the group of members that have done the conversion...

to ignore the CEL (or remove the bulb) OR swap the ECU/ECM for a manual and re-pin the engine harness....

I just couldn't see any reason to go through the headache of swapping the ECM and repinning the harness. I already had a CEL for years because having the paddle shift setup I had shift solenoid codes and I have no cat so there are those codes, just got tired of looking at the CEL. I guess if you had to pass a state inspection you would need to.

 

[Clownmeat]

Nothing exciting, but I figured I would document it anyway. Today I was thinking about my lack of a proper pcv system. When I turbocharged it I vented the left valve cover and kind of neglected the right side. There was't much I could do not having a constant vacuum source under the hood anymore. A few months back when I put the stock air box back in I just now realized I have the means to fix the issue. Plugged off the intake manifold where the pcv valve goes and ran a hose to suck on both valve covers all the time. Now I have positive crankcase ventilation and no more oil soaked breather.

Left side

Right side

To some suction that never sees boost

 

[phattyduck]

Ideally (especially on V or flat motors) you want one head to vent to near atmospheric pressure and one head to have a PCV (one-way) valve.

Under most circumstances with that setup, the PCV valve sucks crankcase gasses into the intake and also sucks in fresh air from the opposite head, cleaning out acidic gasses that cause problems with internal engine parts, etc. Under boost, the PCV valve closes and blow-by will exit the engine through the other vent and keep the crankcase from being pressurized.

So, PCV side flows one-way, the other is either fresh air in (most of the time) or venting out (under boost or high load).

So, for your engine - keep that PCV valve setup like stock and vent the driver's side head to the airbox.

Here is a subaru turbo motor, but my 3s-gte is similar:

-Charlie

 

[Clownmeat]

Ideally (especially on V or flat motors) you want one head to vent to near atmospheric pressure and one head to have a PCV (one-way) valve.

-Charlie

After thinking and looking at it for a bit I agree. I'm leaving the driver side hooked up to the the air box. I plumbed the PCV valve back to the intake because there is way more vacuum, for the majority of the time anyway, in the manifold instead of in the air box. Thanks for making me rethink this.

 

[Clownmeat]

Found the last piece I needed to finish up the manual swap on eBay. My local Toyota dealer could still get it, but this one was half the price and also brand new.

Slushbox to 5 speed swap completed.

 

[GlassHammer]

I've been trying to round up all the parts I need for my 5 speed swap for months and still don't have everything I need. You got it done in a week, pretty impressive. I'm close though. :yo:

 

[Myrunr2010]

Found the last piece I needed to finish up the manual swap on eBay. My local Toyota dealer could still get it, but this one was half the price and also brand new.

Slushbox to 5 speed swap completed.

Did you have to cut the trim piece at all that holds the leather? Ive got a 1" body lift and it's close to getting into 2nd and reverse sometimes. Ive been contemplating a turbo soon, which would necessitate a 2" in lieu of the 1".

 

[Clownmeat]

Did you have to cut the trim piece at all that holds the leather? Ive got a 1" body lift and it's close to getting into 2nd and reverse sometimes. Ive been contemplating a turbo soon, which would necessitate a 2" in lieu of the 1".

No. The top trim with the leather fits and functions perfect. It was the lower rubber boot that I had to modify and move further to the rear to make 2nd, 4th, and Reverse feel better.

 

[Clownmeat]

Again, nothing exciting. Just tired of the old orangey/yellowy halogen headlights forever. Since it's just a trivial thing I didn't go crazy with HID/projectors/whatevers. I got some LED corner and headlight bulbs. I like the nice white color and being able to see, but I'm worried I might be blinding/pissing off other drivers. These damn things are like the sun though, just white, and two of them pointing at you. I guess I will see if people flash me or if I get pulled over for the next couple weeks.

 

[Robb235]

Again, nothing exciting. Just tired of the old orangey/yellowy halogen headlights forever. Since it's just a trivial thing I didn't go crazy with HID/projectors/whatevers. I got some LED corner and headlight bulbs. I like the nice white color and being able to see, but I'm worried I might be blinding/pissing off other drivers. These damn things are like the sun though, just white, and two of them pointing at you. I guess I will see if people flash me or if I get pulled over for the next couple weeks.

Do you get any interference in your radio when you turn them on?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Clownmeat]

Do you get any interference in your radio when you turn them on?

I don't.

 

[Edutechnic]

Great read today! Cool truck and I'm glad you got to move where your kids will have a great place to grow up. I'm used to turbo setups and just picked up a supercharged '02 Tundra and this rear-mount setup interests me a lot! The supercharger is a dog.

My folks are in Twin Falls. I want to move there as soon as I can find a good job! Those Idaho emissions..

 

[dieseldr99]

I'm checking in way late to the game. I just read through the thread, very impressive work. I'm trying to get a grip with how broke I'm sure to be emulating some of it in my build. I'm a diesel tech by trade so I worked around turbos a lot. But it still equates to zero experience adding them to fuel injected gasoline engines. So I have lots to learn. That will have to wait as I am still gathering parts for the lift etc to start saving for the turbo I wasn't aware I needed until today.

I noticed you are running a body lift to clear the 285's. I was planning on running 285/75r16 Toyo MT's on xd127's 16x8 4.5" backspacing. My lift consists of King coilovers and Total Chaos UCA's out front and the Sonoran Steel 1.2 rear only lift in the rear. So I am guessing 2.75-3.0 in front and 4-5 at least intially in the rear. I don't want constant rubbing, any advise?
thanks again for the build thread
I also found the YouTube channel that I assume is yours and subscribed over there.

 

[TheHoneyBadger]

I'm checking in way late to the game. I just read through the thread, very impressive work. I'm trying to get a grip with how broke I'm sure to be emulating some of it in my build. I'm a diesel tech by trade so I worked around turbos a lot. But it still equates to zero experience adding them to fuel injected gasoline engines. So I have lots to learn. That will have to wait as I am still gathering parts for the lift etc to start saving for the turbo I wasn't aware I needed until today.

I noticed you are running a body lift to clear the 285's. I was planning on running 285/75r16 Toyo MT's on xd127's 16x8 4.5" backspacing. My lift consists of King coilovers and Total Chaos UCA's out front and the Sonoran Steel 1.2 rear only lift in the rear. So I am guessing 2.75-3.0 in front and 4-5 at least intially in the rear. I don't want constant rubbing, any advise?
thanks again for the build thread
I also found the YouTube channel that I assume is yours and subscribed over there.

His body lift is mostly to clear the turbo hardware and still keep it higher than the frame ,so he doesn't rip it off. Though I'm sure it does help, with tires. i plan on ordering a 2" kit from phat pat. I plan on coppying his turbo at some point also. I cleared my 33's with zero lift and sagging springs, with only mild rubbing. Fixed with some very light hammer work, bending the pinch welds over, ect. My advice would be to mount them up and have some one turn the wheels while you watch and mark what needs to be "massaged". You're already ahead of the game by switching UCA's ,since wider tires will cause the most inconvenience there. Some guys get frame rub at full lock, depending on wheel offset. Just keep your offset in mind, or run spacers. Good luck to your build. Welcome to the Clownmeat following haha.

Build thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=219718

 

[sandracer33]

Hey Clownmeat, I've been a fan of your build since you started. I just picked up a pretty good starter kit for my turbo install. First question is did you fabricate the bung for the MAF or did you buy it? If you fabbed it would you consider making another one, I would pay you for it of course, or if you bought it where did you get it from? Secondly, I see that you vented the valve cover off of the filler cap, which is where most guys run their return line from the turbo. Where did you route your return line?
Now I just have to figure out how to route everything without putting a body lift on mine. Wife says if I lift it any more she's going to shoot me!

 

[Clownmeat]

if you bought it where did you get it from?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-0-Billet-Aluminum-Denso-MAF-Flange-Fits-Subaru-WRX-STI-Impreza-Toyota/191865824962?hash=item2cac1826c2:g:YBkAAOSwLs5XLO7f&vxp=mtr

Where did you route your return line?

There is a tube on the rear of the left valve cover that works nice.