Clutch has to go to the floor to shift.

greko96

New member
Hello. New to the forum.

I have a 98 4runner that I have proudly owned almost 5 years now. Since day 1 of purchase I have had to push the clutch all the way to the floor to shift without grinding. I have always been able to shift without any problems but it is annoying to have to keep pushing it to the floor as I have to have my seat adjusted up to an uncomfortable position. My questions is; is this a Master/Slave cylinder issue, or is there a bigger underlying issue?

I am trying to determine what kind of cost I am looking at to correct this. I went to an automotive shop a year ago and described the issue to a mechanic who in turn quoted me $1500 (without looking at my truck), claiming it sounded like a clutch / transfer case issue, but everything I have read online suggests its more of a spring and/or cylinder issue.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
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My '99 is the same way. I've also noticed it has a very short range between disengaged/engaged.
 
I would make sure you have plenty of fluid in the master cylinder. Also, it is possible to adjust the clutch pedal inside the truck. Just be conservative with how much adjusting you do if you decide to try it.
 
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FSM Clutch specs (from my paper '99 4Runner FSM):

1. CHECK THAT PEDAL HEIGHT IS CORRECT
Pedal Height above Floor Panel: 175 - 185mm
Pedal Height above Asphalt sheet: 172 - 182mm

2. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST PEDAL HEIGHT
Loosen the lock nut and turn the stopper bolt until the height is correct. Tighten the locknut.

3. CHECK THAT PEDAL FREEPLAY AND PUSH ROD FREEPLAY ARE CORRECT

Push in on the pedal until the beginning of clutch resistance is felt.

Pedal freeplay: 5.0 - 15.0mm

Gently push on the pedal until the resistance begins to increase a little.

Push rod freeplay: 1.0 - 5.0mm

4. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST PEDAL FREEPLAY AND PUSHROD FREEPLAY.

a) Loosen the lock nut and turn the pushrod until freeplay and the pushrod play are correct.
b) Tighten the locknut.
c) After adjusting the pedal freeplay, check the pedal height.
d) Connect the air duct and install the lower finish panel.

5. CHECK CLUTCH RELEASE POINT

a) Pull parking brake and install wheel stopper.
b)Start engine and idle the engine
c)Without depressing the clutch pedal, slowly shift the shift lever until the gears contact.
d)Gradually depress the clutch pedal and measure the stroke distance from the point the gear noise stops (releae point) up to the full stroke end position.
Standard distance: 25mm (0.98in) or more (From pedal stroke end position to release point)
If the distance is not as specified, perform the following operation.
-Check pedal height
-Check push rod play and pedal freeplay
-Bleed the clutch line
-Check the clutch cover and disc.

I checked mine when I installed my new clutch last year and mine is in spec. It took some effort, but I am quite happy with how mine shifts.

Still, I learned to drive standard in 1972 and I have always put the clutch to the floor on all those millions of shifts since. (Never owned a slushbox.) If clutch is in spec, release point is an inch from the floor so trying to muscle memory anything except all the way down seems dubious to me.
 
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yeah you can try bleeding the lines on the slave cyl. i have a large foot and have to use my toes to push the clutch in far enough to shift on most vehicles. it tends to hit the floor to the left of the peddle.
 
My roommate used to have a taco with a stick, after a lot of offroading, the clutch pedal had come loose over time from going offroad, he just retightened the mounts and it was fine.

And yeah we know how drive stick haha. What he is describing is literally burying the clutch into the carpet.
 
FSM Clutch specs (from my paper '99 4Runner FSM):

1. CHECK THAT PEDAL HEIGHT IS CORRECT
Pedal Height above Floor Panel: 175 - 185mm
Pedal Height above Asphalt sheet: 172 - 182mm

2. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST PEDAL HEIGHT
Loosen the lock nut and turn the stopper bolt until the height is correct. Tighten the locknut.


3. CHECK THAT PEDAL FREEPLAY AND PUSH ROD FREEPLAY ARE CORRECT

Push in on the pedal until the beginning of clutch resistance is felt.

Pedal freeplay: 5.0 - 15.0mm

Gently push on the pedal until the resistance begins to increase a little.

Push rod freeplay: 1.0 - 5.0mm

4. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST PEDAL FREEPLAY AND PUSHROD FREEPLAY.

a) Loosen the lock nut and turn the pushrod until freeplay and the pushrod play are correct.
b) Tighten the locknut.
c) After adjusting the pedal freeplay, check the pedal height.
d) Connect the air duct and install the lower finish panel.

5. CHECK CLUTCH RELEASE POINT

a) Pull parking brake and install wheel stopper.
b)Start engine and idle the engine
c)Without depressing the clutch pedal, slowly shift the shift lever until the gears contact.
d)Gradually depress the clutch pedal and measure the stroke distance from the point the gear noise stops (releae point) up to the full stroke end position.
Standard distance: 25mm (0.98in) or more (From pedal stroke end position to release point)
If the distance is not as specified, perform the following operation.
-Check pedal height
-Check push rod play and pedal freeplay
-Bleed the clutch line
-Check the clutch cover and disc.

I checked mine when I installed my new clutch last year and mine is in spec. It took some effort, but I am quite happy with how mine shifts.

Still, I learned to drive standard in 1972 and I have always put the clutch to the floor on all those millions of shifts since. (Never owned a slushbox.) If clutch is in spec, release point is an inch from the floor so trying to muscle memory anything except all the way down seems dubious to me.

This (I bolded what you want to pay attention to). The pedals will need adjustment at some point in their life, like what you guys are experiencing. Just don't eliminate ALL play, there is supposed to be a little.
 

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