Clutch Replacement

toeheadskater

New member
Hey guys.
97 SR5 that the clutch is going on
I just got my new one from Bahnof
Now I just need a good link for some install instructions
I'll be doing in a shop on a lift with a professional mechanic nearby
I'm just trying to avoid having to ask him for help every two seconds.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Donnie
 
Register to hide this ad
Its not super hard. The hardest part for me was lining up the transmission to put it back in. It took me about 3 hours to get everything pulled out and just over 4 to get it all put back together. I was working alone in a 1 car garage and taking my time though so i bet you could get it done quicker. Let me know if you have any specific questions on anything.
 
So I got it done on Sunday. Took me close to fifteen hours. Here are dome pics along the way.
4cb283ca-cbbb-7f8c.jpg
4cb283ca-cbc9-5135.jpg
4cb283ca-cbd5-a587.jpg
4cb283ca-cbe1-d2d4.jpg
4cb283ca-cbf2-5c61.jpg
4cb283ca-cbfd-b0fe.jpg

Do now it shifts amazing. But anyone know how to adjust the return spring on the clutch arm? It doesn't always come back all the way to the top and I don't want it to be resting against the throw out bearing. And also my driveshaft now vibrates pretty intensely around 60 miles an hour. Any ideas there? Drive shaft out of time?
 
Nice job on knocking the clutch out!

As far as the clutch spring not fully returning the pedal, I did this:
FIXED!! Stupid PLASTIC clutch pedal bushing - YotaTech Forums

That fixed my pedal squeak as well as my pedal not returning all the way. Your little plastic bushings are probably worn out and adding extra resistance against the pedal return spring.

As far as your drive-shaft vibrations, did you pull the slip joint apart on the rear drive-shaft when your removed it? If you did and you don't align the splines on the slip-yoke the same way they were originally, you will get vibrations. If that's not the case, maybe the u-joints are going out.
 
That would be one way to do it, quite a PITA because there's quite a few splines, but it would work. I know it's too late, but you want to mark both sides before you pull it apart.

I remember reading about someone else who did this and I believe the idea was to make sure the u-joints were operating on the same plane. Like if you were looking from one end of the drive-shaft to the other, the u-joints would be lined up. Let me see if I can find that thread.
 
How far down does the clutch stay when you take your foot off the pedal? The clutch return spring fix really only helps when the pedal doesn't make it the last inch or so. If the pedal is stopping way down there, closer to the engagement point, I would think you need to bleed the clutch hydraulics.
 
Thanks for all your help man. The clutch is only lagging about a half inch or so. But its enough to keep the cruise from engaging unless I pull it up with my foot. I think ill do that spring swap. And I'll read that thread
 
Great thread! Just came across this. About to install a rebuilt tranny in my 3rd gen and am collecting clutch replacement info. Any other threads I should add?

I'm looking for suggestions on clutch kits, and DIY instructions.
 
Great thread! Just came across this. About to install a rebuilt tranny in my 3rd gen and am collecting clutch replacement info. Any other threads I should add?

I'm looking for suggestions on clutch kits, and DIY instructions.

I have a longer list than I posted last year (from a recent post I just made on YT):

I just did mine in October. Here are the DIY's I used:

5VZ Clutch Job - TTORA Forum

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runner/maintenance/clutch/

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/clutchmaintenance/

plus I have a paper FSM.

While I was at it, I did rear main seal, clutch slave cylinder, and both shifter seat bushings. These last made a big difference. Get a white one and a blue one from Marlin Crawler, plus an end socket for the 5-speed shifter.

I used this OEM Aisin clutch kit and it seems to be perfect:

Aisin CKT-040 Clutch Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive
 
Last edited:
A couple of thoughts (maybe late but I'll throw them out there):

1) Always mark your drive shaft to the crank with a Sharpie. Drive shafts are balanced.

2) Get a pilot shaft alignment tool. It makes the job of aligning the crankshaft, clutch disk and pressure plate INFINITELY easier than trying to eyeball things (which is pretty much an exercise in futility).
 
Nice job on knocking the clutch out!

As far as the clutch spring not fully returning the pedal, I did this:
FIXED!! Stupid PLASTIC clutch pedal bushing - YotaTech Forums

That fixed my pedal squeak as well as my pedal not returning all the way. Your little plastic bushings are probably worn out and adding extra resistance against the pedal return spring.

As far as your drive-shaft vibrations, did you pull the slip joint apart on the rear drive-shaft when your removed it? If you did and you don't align the splines on the slip-yoke the same way they were originally, you will get vibrations. If that's not the case, maybe the u-joints are going out.

It's not just the slip-joint splines. The drive-shaft to TC flange connection can be bolted up four different ways, as can both diff connections. These should be marked and put back as they were, not 90° or 180° off. You don't need to undo the rear diff, but you do need to do the others.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,305
Messages
3,554,041
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top