COB's '94 Supra Turbo

Steering rack removal.


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Years ago, this car leaked its power steering fluid all over the driver's side subframe. Bad return hose. It's pretty dirty.



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Steering rack bracket and mounting hardware cleaned up.


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The rack bushings are in beautiful condition with zero indication of wear. They got the MK4's right!


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A little cleanup of the rack itself showed the factory cast aluminum shine.


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Amazing what a little simple green and red scotchbrite will do



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Even the cotter pins on the ball joints and tie rods looked good


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Before

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After


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Finally got the new rear axle done in my 4Runner so I took a little break from the MKIV to get that up and running.



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Back to the interior again.


Here's a close up shot of the floorpan directly beneath the driver.


At some point, someone put this car on top of something sharp enough to pierce the floorboard.



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Justin is back in action to bring this thing back to its former glory.


He hammered the two sides flat, however, due to the stretched metal, it ended up overlapping.


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An issue was posed by the front seat support crossmember. This split continues underneath it.


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Underside view


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We needed to add a little bit of access to be able to flatten the section underneath the crossmember.


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In order to properly weld the split, the overlapping metal had to be trimmed with a body saw, so that the two sides will line up evenly enough to weld.


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Considering the length of the cut, this is done in sections. Once one section is welded, the next will be rigid enough to flatten, etc...



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Some of the excess...


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Hey, look! Welds instead of holes! Also cleaned up the access hole in order to be welded back up. That's not staying!



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Seam sealer to protect the wound.

The access hole has been closed up and protected with a layer of SEM self etching primer.

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Testing out some WURTH undercoating. Looks nice but it's awfully glossy... maybe too glossy.


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Closeup. Access hole was never there :D



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Dropped the steering column and started pulling the dash out.


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Good opportunity to determine where some of these mystery wires have been going. Turns out some of them came to a sudden dead end.


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To be further consolidated at a later point. There's a brand new dash going in its place once the tunnel is swapped over.


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This is a fantastic time to install a new alarm system. Any recommendations?


Going to be doing a lot of wire cleanup before the new dash goes in.


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Bungee to the wheel... gotta save that clock spring!


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Now to start dynamat in the main floor area. You cannot tell there is damage underneath which is nice.


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While the WURTH undercoat was a quality product, I gave 3M a try and like the matte finish.


I'm thinking I may stick with the 3M. Your thoughts on this are appreciated.


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The rear wheel well was first coated in WURTH, but, because it showed too much gloss, went over it with the 3M. It needs another coat since the overall finish shows too much of the WURTH coat underneath.



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To the front...


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The front wheel well had not been coated yet, so this was its first coat.


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The whole underside will eventually receive similar coating.
 
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Front control arm bushings have been removed... let me tell you, these things from the factory are built like a brick shit house! They took a lot of effort to get out.



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Got a brand new right side control arm just in case things don't pan out with making poly bushings for this car.


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There's still the matter of the rear subframe


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Some cleanup of the axles near the differential.




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Eyeing the pinion mount bushings...


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Subframe bushings would be tough to replace...



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So far I have a few bushings that will work for the rear lowers and strut rods, but there's heim joints in the uppers from the factory (the arms are not mounted straight in line) that would require a bit more than just a regular bushing. We have some great ideas for this and I hope to be able to debut a brand new bushing on the MKIV chassis. Then there's the rear diff mounts...



There is still plenty of work ahead and, ultimately, no indication if any of these concepts will ever see the light of production.
 
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[MENTION=25058]ChildrenOfBodom[/MENTION],
Love the progress, last pics show your going deeeeppp into resto. Lol, def six figure territory.
 
Rear passenger side wheel well is now coated


Here's a little "during" shot that shows the existing shade


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After 3M coat


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Front passenger side


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Before


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During


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After



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This part has been a long time coming...



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No more automatics!!!



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New 6-speed tunnel, which I've had in storage for a couple of years. Too scared it would be discontinued!! And sure enough, they're NLA now.


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OE deadener removal


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Revealing the spot welds...


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Drilling



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GET THAT THING OUT OF HERE!


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Justin sanding the spot welds to remove the burrs of drilling...


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Adding a few new holes to weld the right hand side of the panel.


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And removing some excess undercoating to ensure no overlap with the new panel.

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Collision work tip - drill a 1/8" hole next to each spot weld, screw in an ovalhead screw to pull the panel in close, then reweld the holes later on.


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And last for this update, clutch master cylinder holes (middle hole was preexisting, thankfully, within the center hole).


The interior panel of the firewall shows exactly where each hole goes.



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It ain't perfect, BUT, the new master seals very nicely and the pedal fits beautifully.


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Great read. Easily my favorite forum read ever! OP, why did you not go with the VIN matched color? Does a non matching color affect value?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I love the paint and THOSE WHEELS! I have a set of 17" Enkei on my TL and I believe I paid about $200 each but if I had known about those I would have strongly considered the extra cash spend. They look so sweet.

BTW did you see this?

Jalopnik | The 1994 Toyota Supra That Sold for $121,000 On Bring a Trailer Is Now at a Dealer for $500,000


The SBC look is killer! Definitely harder to get in the right specifications, though. Glad you like them, I think they'll really pop with the fresh brakes behind them. Thanks Brian.



I did see that :D And it's the same year <3


Glad to have my own, that's for sure!






Great read. Easily my favorite forum read ever! OP, why did you not go with the VIN matched color? Does a non matching color affect value?


Wow, favorite forum read ever?! Thank you! Hot dang, that's a day maker.



There's a few reasons I chose not to go with the original white.


1. The pearl-white paint was basically all the way up into the jams and into hard to reach areas - so painting it any color would have required a similar degree of work.



2. White is not my favorite color for a car, in fact, it's among my least favorite... especially Toyota "Super White"... single stage, bland, and doesn't show the car's angles well. Boring in sunlight, boring at night. Most every car these days is white, silver, gray, or black. I own a white MK3 Supra and the only time it ever really looks nice is when it's waxed, but it still doesn't have half the depth of the metallic green.



3. Car's already been wrecked, none of the panels are original except for the doors and hatch, plus I'm swapping transmissions. Originality was already out the window (even 4 of the 6 windows aren't original... lol).



4. I still wanted an OE Supra color, limiting me to a handful of colors. IJM has a special sentimentality tie to me, as I've owned my Imperial Jade 4Runner for 11 years now.


5. Value doesn't matter because I have no plans to sell it, ever.




To a collector it would, to a enthusiast looking for badazz MKIV no, COB going all out on resto.


Hit the nail on the head, my friend! And thank you :D
 
This update starts up with Mercedes-Benz parts... a lot of Mercedes-Benz techniques are being adapted to this Toyota for the highest quality result possible.

Mercedes-Benz collision shops and all brand new McLaren's are now using Akzo-Nobel brand products, my car is no exception.

Mercedes-Benz weld-on zinc primer

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Time to weld the 6-speed tunnel to the car. I was lucky to have acquired this part when I did, as they've since been discontinued.

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Pulled the screws and continued welding... something like 45-50 spot welds..

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Grinding and sanding...

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Next on the list is the quarter windows.

These are also difficult to locate these days. I sourced these online despite the right side having been discontinued.

First, the surface where the glue sits must be scuffed.

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Second - Mercedes-Benz window adhesive promoter/primer

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After application:

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Third - Mercedes-Benz window adhesive

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Justin has over 20 years of experience installing windows. He lays the glue down quite consistently!

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The Mercedes-Benz adhesion promoter/primer also gets applied to the window backing prior to install.

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Installed!

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Also did the passenger side... somehow I didn't photograph the finished install, I got distracted...

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Extracting the BRAND NEW rear glass... Got the last one in the USA!

My existing rear window is still intact, but the defroster is non-functional and there are some deep scratches in the outer surface of the glass.


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Brand new window molding going on.

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Scuffing the surface on the back hatch to accept the Mercedes-Benz adhesion promoter/primer and adhesive.

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Justin laying down adhesive:

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I wish I had a photographer... there's simply too many moments I want to capture, but can't. This install was hair-raising!

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The rear fuel tank shield, as discussed before, was difficult to source, as Toyota does not store them in boxes. They're left uncovered. This was the best shield remaining of the 3 in the USA. Justin knocked out the one dent and now it's ready to be painted.

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Application of black seam sealer to the new 6-speed transmission tunnel.

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Applied from the bottom also (peekaboo)

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Application of undercoat also took place. Don't have a photo of the completed product yet, but there's going to be some later when the rest of the underside is coated.

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Pulled the rear bumper out from storage.

All new clips and hardware, all of it. All clips, nuts, bolts, inserts...

Here's the little clips that hold the two metal brackets inside the bumper.

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Oooooooooooooh pretty

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