Cold Air Horsepower

SouthernSS said:
well, its already got 285's on it which is why Im already looking to spend more mon...I mean, increase torque. Im not a huge fan of regearing because I do a lot of highway driving and long range towing. I dont expect much but I would like to be able to merge onto the interstate without having to smash the accelerator through the floor.

I see Bimrunner is running 4.56 gears. What type of rpms are you seeing at 70mph or so? and how is your mpg?


EDIT: for towing regearing would probably help. It is my daily driver though so I've still got to consider gas mileage and you and I both know that a turbo is the most efficient method of adding power.
Click to expand...

Your efficiency went out the window when you added the 285's and will again when you start hanging steel. Now is probably not a good time to talk about efficiency lol. You initially complained about the acceleration and I gave you a cost effective option. Now you want acceleration AND efficiency? Actually the efficient way is to take the 285's off and run 235/70/17's to get your acceleration and reduce rotational mass for increased efficiency. While you are at it lower it a few inches and remove most of the seats, carpet and air conditioning. THAT my friend is the most efficient method of "adding" power. Adding a turbo won't bring back the efficiency you lost though nor will a supercharger. It will increase the acceleration a bit depending on boost.

Now, if you want to add a turbo just to add a turbo then I am all for it!
 
SouthernSS said:
I need some reason to tell my wife....work with me here.
Click to expand...

I'll be happy to write up a justification proposal for you. If she is anything like 99.9% of the rest of the people then she will read the first line and her eyes will glaze over and they will immediately look for something, anything else to do at that moment.
 
SouthernSS said:
I need some reason to tell my wife....work with me here.
Click to expand...

1. You "need" to because it was geared too high for weight of the armor you plan to add.
2. It is a write-off because it is to represent your business.
3. It helps you go slower on the dangerous parts of the trail, therefore saving potentially large amounts of money since you are less likely to damage things mashing the skinny pedal to get over huge obstacles.
4. Since you can go slower and have more control, it is safer for her (this is especially compelling if you have children :yo:).
5. Probably should add ARB locker...

To answer your questions: I sit at about 2750 RPMs at 70. Gas milage? what is that again? Yeah, once you lift, add armor, regear... I get 13-15MPG but I'm not a racer and I live at sea level. When I wheel... its lower.
 
lol, I hear you. I'm not certain if it was you that posted the video about "The Expert, A Hilarious Sketch Comedy Video About the Pain of Being the Only Engineer in a Business Meeting" but, thats exactly how I feel in most of my "day job" meetings too.
 
SouthernSS said:
lol, I hear you. I'm not certain if it was you that posted the video about "The Expert, A Hilarious Sketch Comedy Video About the Pain of Being the Only Engineer in a Business Meeting" but, thats exactly how I feel in most of my "day job" meetings too.
Click to expand...

lol. not me. can't take the creds.
 
yeah, I think it was 1engineer, but you snuck in there before I hit post. I need to remember to quote.

I completely agreed with your post and you actually hit the nail on the head with the addtional ARB lockers. This is probably why I wont be doing it any time soon. Mods beget mods and it doesnt make sense to have something apart without doing it right the first time.
 
SouthernSS said:
yeah, I think it was 1engineer, but you snuck in there before I hit post. I need to remember to quote.

I completely agreed with your post and you actually hit the nail on the head with the addtional ARB lockers. This is probably why I wont be doing it any time soon. Mods beget mods and it doesnt make sense to have something apart without doing it right the first time.
Click to expand...

Yes. I was only going to do a couple things to my rig... well, I did a couple things... The lockers/gears are something to do when the diffs are pulled. No reason to want to go back in there for that one.
 
THis is off topic for this thread but, I have sketched it out and I'm in love. I'm holding it close to the chest until I speak with my intellectual property rights lawyers.
 
I always wondered if routing the air conditioning vent into the air intake of the motor would give much better performance?
 
RedSled said:
I don't mean as a stand alone system, I'm just saying to help cool the air already being brought in.
Click to expand...

Quick explanation:
Right now your air conditioning "unit" does not put out the required volume of cooled air necessary compared to what is required by your engine for proper combustion. If you sized the air compressor to produce the required volume of air then you would be fine theoretically. Problem is the hp required to run the larger compressor would negate any gains realized by the cooler temperatures. In fact, you would lose hp trying that idea. Now, if only someone figured out a way to FORCE air into the engine...
 
We had those on top of the dash - in the old days before car air conditioning was invented. My first few cars didn't even have a heater! (1935 Dodge Panel)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 964 (members: 6, guests: 958)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,089
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top