Consolidated 5th Gen Skid Plate Info Thread

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Any word on ARB Skid plates?

Even though I already bought and installed a TRD front skid plate, a full set of skids for $418.95 + $70 shipping is kind of tempting to me.

ARB Skid Plates for Toyota 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, & Prado

I note they are 3mm thick vs. everyone else's 3/16 or 4.76mm thickness. Will they hold up?
 
Any word on ARB Skid plates?

Even though I already bought and installed a TRD front skid plate, a full set of skids for $418.95 + $70 shipping is kind of tempting to me.

ARB Skid Plates for Toyota 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, & Prado

I note they are 3mm thick vs. everyone else's 3/16 or 4.76mm thickness. Will they hold up?

They seem to be for light duty use. A local ad in Craigslist shows a used set with a big dent in the front.

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4Runner ARB Skid Plates 5th Gen KDSS - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale

3/16" thick steel will take more hits so your offroading style will be a factor in the decision.

There are a few interesting ARB skid threads on the forum such as this one: ARB vs Factory skids One of the complaints was about how easy it was to bash in the crossmember that mounts towards the back.
 
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If you are interested in Shrockworks skids don't bother to send emails to their tech info@shrockworks address.

I sent an email on July 11th with 3 questions and 12 days later I received a definite answer to one question about fitment, no answer to the weight of the skids and a request for photos on my third question. I think I will call them rather than wait another 12 days :pound:
 
LFD Steel Skid

I ordered and received the LFD steel skid plate. My initial reaction is this thing is much heavier than I expected. Laid it on the scale and it is 45.2 lbs. I think I was looking in the 30 pound area, but I really didn't know. What I do know is I will not be wanting to drop this skid for each oil change and whatever other work I want to do. I will not be doing heavy crawling in this 4Runner. I just want protection from potentially rough mountain roads I will be experiencing. And for easier maintenance.

Given all this I will prefer an aluminum skid I think. LFD does not appear to make them, and not sure how easy it is going to sell the LFD skid. Should have researched more. LFD customer service has been awesome by the way.
 
I ordered and received the LFD steel skid plate. My initial reaction is this thing is much heavier than I expected. Laid it on the scale and it is 45.2 lbs. I think I was looking in the 30 pound area, but I really didn't know. What I do know is I will not be wanting to drop this skid for each oil change and whatever other work I want to do. I will not be doing heavy crawling in this 4Runner. I just want protection from potentially rough mountain roads I will be experiencing. And for easier maintenance.

Given all this I will prefer an aluminum skid I think. LFD does not appear to make them, and not sure how easy it is going to sell the LFD skid. Should have researched more. LFD customer service has been awesome by the way.

Correct me if I'm wrong but i believe the skid has an opening/door allowing you to access the oil filter. Allows you to change the oil without taking the skid off like the factory one.
 
Indeed. But someone mentioned you really need to remove the skid since it is pretty tight to work with. If the door works that may alleviate some of my concern. The thing is still pretty friggin heavy though. In some parallel universe I am probably praising it!

If you all are using the "trap doors" though I think I'm good with that. :dancin:

Happy to support a local company, and the service has been great, as some have mentioned here.
 
Indeed. But someone mentioned you really need to remove the skid since it is pretty tight to work with. If the door works that may alleviate some of my concern. The thing is still pretty friggin heavy though. In some parallel universe I am probably praising it!

If you all are using the "trap doors" though I think I'm good with that. :dancin:

Happy to support a local company, and the service has been great, as some have mentioned here.

Hope the trap door is sufficient for oil service, that's one of the reasons for the swap. I was about to order the LFD for my daughter's KDSS and realized they only made it in steel. Decided against it due to weight and she only would need an aluminum one for light duty. Ordered the RCI over the 4th, received last weekend and installed it few days ago. I believe it weighs in @ ~24#. All the hardware were M8x1.25.

Good luck with the install. I actually prefer how the LFD looks since the front skid is easily seen.
 
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I have a front skid plate that has the opening, but honestly, just remove it when changing the oil. My first oil change after installing the new skid plate took longer because oil from the filter housing spilled into the skid plate. It was enough oil to warrant removal of skid plate to clean up the oil, which added more time than if I had originally just undid the few bolts holding it in place.
 
sclui56

you can still spill oil out of the cartridge cover if you don't drain it first. If you drain it with the Toyota supplied nipple it is still possible to get oil on the skid plate.
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Use one of these nifty drain valves with a hose to cleanly empty the oil before unscrewing the cover. Far easier than wasting your time dropping the skid plate over and over when it has a nice access cover engineered into it. Simply screw this drain hose to the filter cover end fitting, open the valve and the oil drains right into your used oil container through the tube. :cheers:
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With the cartridge housing empty of used oil you can unscrew it and replace the filter element.

https://www.amazon.com/JDT-TOYOTA-R...d=1564410753&s=gateway&sr=8-2#customerReviews

https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools...rtridge+drain&qid=1564410753&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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teotwaki

Copy that, actually bought one of those metal drain valve w/ hose, it is sitting next to the Toyota alloy replacement cap for the next change, will also swap in the Fumoto valve at the same time. Thanks.
 
Yeah I was thinking of doing that, I'm a bit scared of rust, but it's not like we have a ton of humidity here.

If you're worried about rust, look into por15 products. Canadians swear by it when doing any sort of bodywork -it's a sealant and rust inhibitor. Super durable and you can paint over the products if you don't like the colors they come in.

If you scrape the bottom, give the spot a whirl with a steel wheel to clean things up a bit and reapply some more por15. Easy peasy.
 
Shrockworks Skid Owners

My RadFlo coilovers require a small block under the standard non-KDSS swaybar bushing bracket to move the swaybar down 1/2" and forward 1". This keeps the ends of the swaybar from ever contacting the coilover.

QUESTION:

If you have a similar swaybar relocation block do yo have any issues with the center section of the swaybar contacting the Shrockworks skidplate?

PS: I heard back from Shrockworks on the weights of the engine/trans/T-case skids. I will also update the first post in this thread.

Engine 42 lbs
Trans 28 lbs
T-case 29 lbs
 
I did return my front skid to the LFD office/factory, which is fairly close to me in Denver, NC. Great team there. Everyone was very helpful. And I got to walk through their production facility. Wish I could have kept the skid. A solid product but it just does not fit my needs. Looking at their roof racks though for next year. Those I can use!
 
Bump for my question -

My RadFlo coilovers require a small block under the standard non-KDSS swaybar bushing bracket to move the swaybar down 1/2" and forward 1". This keeps the ends of the swaybar from ever contacting the coilover.

IMG_5653-1.jpg


IMG_5654-2.jpg



QUESTION:

If you have a similar swaybar relocation block do you have any issues with the center section of the swaybar contacting your skidplate? I am especially interested in fitment with a Shrockworks skid
 
RCI Metalworks skidplate set received and installed!

I also used RCI's filler plate for the bumper to radiator gap as the plastic OEM filler is oddly molded and won't fit anymore.
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I really like all of the extra protection for the transfer case (which had a useless little tinfoil skid plate bolted to the bottom).
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The exhaust crossover clears the skidplate so no rubbing or vibrating issues.
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I also like the protection afforded for bolt heads on the lower mounting points.

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The longest skid for the transmission has some lengthwise stiffeners.
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Bump for my question -

My RadFlo coilovers require a small block under the standard non-KDSS swaybar bushing bracket to move the swaybar down 1/2" and forward 1". This keeps the ends of the swaybar from ever contacting the coilover.

IMG_5653-1.jpg


IMG_5654-2.jpg



QUESTION:

If you have a similar swaybar relocation block do you have any issues with the center section of the swaybar contacting your skidplate? I am especially interested in fitment with a Shrockworks skid

I just ordered their skid plates since they're having a 10% off sale until tomorrow night. I'll let you know when I put them on. I have the same sway bar setup


Edit:also, those hex bolts, I would out some type of anti sieze or anti corrosion on it. Looks wise, mine rusted pretty bad. But I may be able to just rub off the rust. Haven't tried it yet.
 
I just ordered their skid plates since they're having a 10% off sale until tomorrow night. I'll let you know when I put them on. I have the same sway bar setup


Edit:also, those hex bolts, I would out some type of anti sieze or anti corrosion on it. Looks wise, mine rusted pretty bad. But I may be able to just rub off the rust. Haven't tried it yet.

Since I previously posted my question I finally purchased RCI skids but thanks for responding to my request!!
 

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