Consolidated 5th Gen Skid Plate Info Thread

From my research, Budbuilt and RCI both make a TRD integration plate the fills the void between the TRD plate and their transmission plate.

Thanks! I will update the first post in this manner

-vendor- offers versions that integrate with the TRD Aluminum skidplate. Check their website for details.

:high5:
 
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I know you went with RCI, but I'll answer this for future owners in the same boat. I have the non KDSS sway bar spacer that Radflo provided so the sway bar doesn't contact the shocks.
The sway bar still doesn't not make contact with the skid plate :thumb:
The Radflos also came with skid plate spacers for the original ones. I no longer had to use these with the Shrockworks skid plates.
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Shrockworks Skid Owners

My RadFlo coilovers require a small block under the standard non-KDSS swaybar bushing bracket to move the swaybar down 1/2" and forward 1". This keeps the ends of the swaybar from ever contacting the coilover.

QUESTION:

If you have a similar swaybar relocation block do yo have any issues with the center section of the swaybar contacting the Shrockworks skidplate?

PS: I heard back from Shrockworks on the weights of the engine/trans/T-case skids. I will also update the first post in this thread.

Engine 42 lbs
Trans 28 lbs
T-case 29 lbs

Bump for my question -

My RadFlo coilovers require a small block under the standard non-KDSS swaybar bushing bracket to move the swaybar down 1/2" and forward 1". This keeps the ends of the swaybar from ever contacting the coilover.

IMG_5653-1.jpg


IMG_5654-2.jpg



QUESTION:

If you have a similar swaybar relocation block do you have any issues with the center section of the swaybar contacting your skidplate? I am especially interested in fitment with a Shrockworks skid
 
I know you went with RCI, but I'll answer this for future owners in the same boat. I have the non KDSS sway bar spacer that Radflo provided so the sway bar doesn't contact the shocks.
The sway bar still doesn't not make contact with the skid plate :thumb:
The Radflos also came with skid plate spacers for the original ones. I no longer had to use these with the Shrockworks skid plates.

Thanks for taking the time to provide feedback for all to read!

I really liked the Shrockworks ample drainage holes but three items precluded buying the skids

1. -The exposed bolt heads all along the bottom. - On my engine skid on the 2005 4Runner I was always replacing bolts that got the exposed bolt heads smashed. I finally located some hardened button head bolts that did not easily catch on rocks.

2. -The transfer case skid integrated with the crossmember. - It does save some weight but any big dents in the skid mean the whole piece is deformed and not just the skid. However sledge hammers do exist for "adjusting" skids, lol.

3. - The lack of reinforcement for the transmission skid. -As the longest skid with no center support it really needs some sort of reinforcement or backbone to prevent collapse upon large hits.
 
First post updated today with the weights of the CBI aluminum skids and also a link to the thread it came from. Thanks to Member 57Buick for the weights!
 
I am looking at RCI front skids - any issues with access to change oil?

No, but it's easier (for any oil change not with just RCI skids) with a Fumoto Valve or a Valvomax for the drain and a "Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench and Drain Tool Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines with Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems" for the oil filter. And it is easier using the "FloTool Oil Recycling Can — 3 Gallon, Model# 11849" from Northern Tool to collect the oil. Those big flat open collection trays are a pain and an easy way to spill oil when you have 6.5 quarts of oil in one.
 
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Just got my RCI Transmission and Tcase skids (steel) installed. Looks good!

Before
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After
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Front skid (alum) still doing great after taking a few scrapes and hits
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I am looking at RCI front skids - any issues with access to change oil?


After I installed my RCI skids I performed my first oil change at 25K miles and the RCI skids did not slow me down at all.

Part of that effort was to install a Fumoto valve in the oil pan and change the plastic oil cartridge housing for the aluminum version from Toyota.

I also used a drain tool (might have been a JDT) to drain the cartridge housing. It came with a far too long hose so I cut it to length to be just above my oil drain pan. On the Fumoto valve I added a couple of inches of rubber hose to direct the used oil stream past the skid plate.


"Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench and Drain Tool Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines with Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems" for the oil filter.
 
After I installed my RCI skids I performed my first oil change at 25K miles and the RCI skids did not slow me down at all.

Part of that effort was to install a Fumoto valve in the oil pan and change the plastic oil cartridge housing for the aluminum version from Toyota.

I also used a drain tool (might have been a JDT) to drain the cartridge housing. It came with a far too long hose so I cut it to length to be just above my oil drain pan. On the Fumoto valve I added a couple of inches of rubber hose to direct the used oil stream past the skid plate.


"Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench and Drain Tool Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines with Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems" for the oil filter.

Yea, I already had an oil filter wrench so I also ordered the JDT since Motivx didn't sell one by itself.
 
I’m debating between the C4 diff skid plate and RCI diff skid plate. Which one is easier to install and offers better protection? Also which one offers more clearance?
 
First post updated today March 23, 2020
I've updated CBI aluminum and steel skid plate weights

Thanks for putting this together. Decided on RCI steel while they're having their 15% off sale - code: TAXTIME.

Apparently the OEM plastic filler piece can be cut to fit to close up the gap.
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Photo belongs to Brenan - T4Runner.
 

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