Consolidated Lighting Info Thread

[XenonDepot]

Hi everyone, new guy here.

Been reading a little bit, I know it's not the best idea, but is there a way to run both drl and low beams?

I've got a 5th gen t4r.

On the 5th Gen 4Runner, the DRL runs through the high beam and the low beam is a separate bulb. If you wanted them to turn on that the same time then you would have to do some wiring to make that happen.

Danny

 

[RysiuM]

I know it's not the best idea, but is there a way to run both drl and low beams? I've got a 5th gen t4r.

Which year? In 2014 DRL got moved from front blinkers to high beam. Either way I can't see a single reason to do what you want to do. OK, I understand the difference between "need" and "want", but this "want" is from the high shelf in the "weird wants closet".

Now answering the question: yes, everything is possible (except flipping a helmet inside out as they say in the Army ) but would require some cutting and connecting wires. If you have 2010 - 2013 model, than cut the DRL wire going from the flasher to Master Body ECU and the flasher side connect it to ground. I know flasher will not care and will keep your front blinkers on all the time

If you have 2014+ model then the idea would be the same - cut the wire between the electronic unit called "DRL Relay" and master body ECU. Ground that wire on the DRL Relay side. However I don't know how system would react (especially DRL Relay) if you turn on high beams at the same time while having DRL on.

 

[Oroboros]

On the 5th Gen 4Runner, the DRL runs through the high beam and the low beam is a separate bulb. If you wanted them to turn on that the same time then you would have to do some wiring to make that happen.

Danny

Figured, was just wondering if there was a write up.

Which year? In 2014 DRL got moved from front blinkers to high beam. Either way I can't see a single reason to do what you want to do. OK, I understand the difference between "need" and "want", but this "want" is from the high shelf in the "weird wants closet".

Now answering the question: yes, everything is possible (except flipping a helmet inside out as they say in the Army ) but would require some cutting and connecting wires. If you have 2010 - 2013 model, than cut the DRL wire going from the flasher to Master Body ECU and the flasher side connect it to ground. I know flasher will not care and will keep your front blinkers on all the time

If you have 2014+ model then the idea would be the same - cut the wire between the electronic unit called "DRL Relay" and master body ECU. Ground that wire on the DRL Relay side. However I don't know how system would react (especially DRL Relay) if you turn on high beams at the same time while having DRL on.

2015 limited.
Thanks for the info. I'll try to see if I can dig up more info before I start pulling wires. Trying to make it look stock as possible and using the light stalk instead of putting in a switch for it.
Any way to get the wiring diagram for the headlights?

 

[markie671]

By the way T4R does not work, probably before but not anymore. I ordered a week ago and no go.. Tried doing it today for giggles because you mentioned and a still no go.

 

[RysiuM]

Trying to make it look stock as possible and using the light stalk instead of putting in a switch for it.
Any way to get the wiring diagram for the headlights?

How exactly you imagine it supposed to work: turn low beam on when in DRL position? It may be possible or may be not.

All wires from the stalk go to Master Body ECU. The stalk simply connects different wires to ground. Master Body ECU is actually doing all the leg work to figure out which relay to turn on and when. Altering the logic of Master Body ECU is probably not possible without reprogramming it. Giving it unexpected input combination, like for example grounding both DRL and HEAD at the same time (the original switch does either one or the other) might bring unexpected result (hopefully not burning the ECU but strange behavior).

Yes, modern cars have more computers in it than average household, and while they are "smart" changing something is next to impossible.

I have only 2010 diagrams, and they are discouraging enough.

 

[Oroboros]

How exactly you imagine it supposed to work: turn low beam on when in DRL position? It may be possible or may be not.

All wires from the stalk go to Master Body ECU. The stalk simply connects different wires to ground. Master Body ECU is actually doing all the leg work to figure out which relay to turn on and when. Altering the logic of Master Body ECU is probably not possible without reprogramming it. Giving it unexpected input combination, like for example grounding both DRL and HEAD at the same time (the original switch does either one or the other) might bring unexpected result (hopefully not burning the ECU but strange behavior).

Yes, modern cars have more computers in it than average household, and while they are "smart" changing something is next to impossible.

I have only 2010 diagrams, and they are discouraging enough.

Dam. Was hoping to not wire in a switch, but that might be the way I have to go.

 

[CZ-4Runner]

I posted this in another thread with regards to a fog light and thought it might be useful here too. For you folks that want white and stay stock style bulbs, look into the Philips Diamond Vision bulbs at 5000k temp. They looks great! Especially in the projectors. Crisp and white! For the DRL, they do run more of the stock orange-ish color but burn nice and white as high beams at 5000k. Not sure why this is?? What I don't like in the high beam location is that you have a blue reflection when off within the housing due to the blue bulb glass. (Not the case in the projector) Some might find this cool but I'd rather a clean reflector look. I'll probably find a LED to go into the high beam location that burns 5000k at High and DRL without flickering. I think this will take care of the blue reflection as well. I'm trying to keep all 3 at 5000k.

 

[RysiuM]

For you folks that want white and stay stock style bulbs, look into the Philips Diamond Vision bulbs at 5000k temp. They looks great! Especially in the projectors. Crisp and white!

If you want your truck as a driveway ornament, yah, go for it. But if you want to see the road at night, do not restrict the light output by putting a "filtered" bulbs.

The blue thing on this bulb is nothing else than blue optical filter which filters out the light with longer wave length. It does not convert that light into blue, it simply blocks it. So in short the portion of the visible lights emitted by filament is blocked by blue filter. It means less visible light on the road. The only thing it does is changing the truck into a Christmas ornament.

The other thing is while the "white" (5000k+) light seems more visible and therefore feels like brighter, in fact it actually gives less visible light than traditional 3000k halogen color. And because of the color 'brightness" it actually ruins your night vision (guess why pilots flying VFR at night in use red lights in the cockpit).

My 2 cents.

 

[philsey]

If you want your truck as a driveway ornament, yah, go for it. But if you want to see the road at night, do not restrict the light output by putting a "filtered" bulbs.

The blue thing on this bulb is nothing else than blue optical filter which filters out the light with longer wave length. It does not convert that light into blue, it simply blocks it. So in short the portion of the visible lights emitted by filament is blocked by blue filter. It means less visible light on the road. The only thing it does is changing the truck into a Christmas ornament.

The other thing is while the "white" (5000k+) light seems more visible and therefore feels like brighter, in fact it actually gives less visible light than traditional 3000k halogen color. And because of the color 'brightness" it actually ruins your night vision (guess why pilots flying VFR at night in use red lights in the cockpit).

My 2 cents.

^^ Probably an unpopular statement, but true 100%. 4300K HID FTW.

 

[CZ-4Runner]

^^ Probably an unpopular statement, but true 100%. 4300K HID FTW.

So 4300k gives you the best driving light temp? Sylvania SilverStar ZXE makes a stock style bulb that's at 4200k and that even has I slight hint of blue on the bulb glass.

 

[XenonDepot]

So 4300k gives you the best driving light temp?

Yes, 4300K provides the most light output at 3200-3300 lumens.

Danny

 

[RysiuM]

Here is the visual comparison of the actual color of different lights. It is in my Tacoma, but should give you the idea:

Sylvania SilverStar halogen headlights - 4000K
Osram LEDriving PX-5 DRL - 5200K
T10 LED Front marker - 6000K

You can see that 5200 DRL are quite close to Sylvania SilverStar. T10 LED at 6000K look ridiculous, but I can't find any T10 bulb with decent output at 5000K

 

[MaddoxPics]

How many of you are running the HID to the battery for the XenonDepot HIDs? I was told it didn't matter one way or another, which I believe, but just am curious how the users on here set theirs up.

 

[philsey]

So 4300k gives you the best driving light temp? Sylvania SilverStar ZXE makes a stock style bulb that's at 4200k and that even has I slight hint of blue on the bulb glass.

Yes, 4300K provides the most light output at 3200-3300 lumens.

Danny

[MENTION=167950]CZ-4Runner[/MENTION] 4300K in an HID bulb yields the most lumens compared to other HID bulbs of differing Kelvin ratings.

The Sylvania is a halogen bulb which emulates the same (4200-4300) color appearance as an HID bulb. You should not assume that a halogen bulb creates equal lumen output as HID, just because of color/appearance. Further, IIRC, the blue appearance of the Sylvania is because the glass bulb is tinted, which restricts light output.

In order of lumens: HID>LED>Halogen.

[MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] Right Danny?

 

[XenonDepot]

[MENTION=167950]CZ-4Runner[/MENTION] 4300K in an HID bulb yields the most lumens compared to other HID bulbs of differing Kelvin ratings.

The Sylvania is a halogen bulb which emulates the same (4200-4300) color appearance as an HID bulb. You should not assume that a halogen bulb creates equal lumen output as HID, just because of color/appearance. Further, IIRC, the blue appearance of the Sylvania is because the glass bulb is tinted, which restricts light output.

In order of lumens: HID>LED>Halogen.

[MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] Right Danny?

[MENTION=164260]MaddoxPics[/MENTION] - Our Xtreme HID ballasts are low draw, so you can safely power them right from the OEM headlight wiring without the use of a relay harness.
[MENTION=51186]philsey[/MENTION] - Correct. The only thing I'll add is that just because two bulbs are rated at 4300k bulbs doesn't mean that they emit the same amount of lumens. Check out this interesting read:

2017 Lexus CT200h HID Kit Installation

Steve

 

[philsey]

2010-2013 retrofit?

In case any 2010-2013 owners following this thread are interested in retrofitting, I'll just leave this here.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/80618-5th-gen-sale-wanted-thread-587.html#post2814332

 

[Mike_Eche]

Need a little help please.

Just installed the H11 Phillips 4300k HIDs, no relay harness used, and all works great, they look amazing. But before installing the new Nokya halogen bulbs for my DRL/High beams, I notice they don't turn on unless I turn on the high beams...then the bulb works. But when I switch to DRL, nothing. Thoughts??

I've got a 2017 SR5. Thanks in advance!

 

[TRUSTYAXE]

Need a little help please.

Just installed the H11 Phillips 4300k HIDs, no relay harness used, and all works great, they look amazing. But before installing the new Nokya halogen bulbs for my DRL/High beams, I notice they don't turn on unless I turn on the high beams...then the bulb works. But when I switch to DRL, nothing. Thoughts??

I've got a 2017 SR5. Thanks in advance!

Is the truck running?

 

[Talon7]

Need some help

I've read through this entire post today and the info here has been incredibly comprehensive on lighting. I'm new to all this and it may be in other sections of the forums but, is there somewhere that I can find some wiring diagrams and color codes of the lights.

Let me be more specific. While I have a rear CBI SW bumper with Rigid LEDS installed, not as back up but as a remote aux and remotely switched, I did not do that work myself. What wasn't done and I am now doing is switched power to LED licence plate lights on the SW part of the bumper to where I have relocated my licence plate where the back up camera was as well.

What I need to find out is where I can tap into switched power from the passenger tail light of my 2017 T4R TRD OR.

I believe I have the wire runner to the right area to tap, the right light harness, (Passenger side tail light) but of the I believe six wires running into this pigtail, I haven't a clue and I know someone has taped the right power source on here so I can be street legal again.

Thanks in advance for being gentle with my first inquiry!

 

[5280 TRail-Runner]

I've read through this entire post today and the info here has been incredibly comprehensive on lighting. I'm new to all this and it may be in other sections of the forums but, is there somewhere that I can find some wiring diagrams and color codes of the lights.

Let me be more specific. While I have a rear CBI SW bumper with Rigid LEDS installed, not as back up but as a remote aux and remotely switched, I did not do that work myself. What wasn't done and I am now doing is switched power to LED licence plate lights on the SW part of the bumper to where I have relocated my licence plate where the back up camera was as well.

What I need to find out is where I can tap into switched power from the passenger tail light of my 2017 T4R TRD OR.

I believe I have the wire runner to the right area to tap, the right light harness, (Passenger side tail light) but of the I believe six wires running into this pigtail, I haven't a clue and I know someone has taped the right power source on here so I can be street legal again.

Thanks in advance for being gentle with my first inquiry!

Use a voltmeter to find out which one is the power source. As for the license plate, why would you want the LED lights to be switched powered? It should be on when the tail light is on. Why not tap into the existing wires for the lights in the original spot?