Ok...from a 12V persons standpoint..there are problems and great ideas in this..
My honest suggestion is that, that relay you have a hold of has a low-current circuit, and the high current circuit (the one you jumped) Use them and put a switch on it
Sorry i cant post pics to what im gonna describe, but i have a 3RD gen and i dont know if its the same back there..
Btw...i dont have a 3rd gen, and cant check that relay, how i am going to explain it is one way, but you could do it many other ways, if someone wants to send me one of their relays (if they just jumped the connections) i can test it and send them it back...
Furthermore, im not responsible if you zap, shock, blow fuses, or anything else ..im doing this off of my head...
Parts needed:
16 or 14 gauge wire (14 is better) (this is for the jumper)
Male spade terminals (get ones that the spade is the same size as the ones on the factory relay)
Female spade terminals (matching size to the male ones
Fuse holder
1 amp fuses
Solder / soldering iron
Tools to get to the fuse
Crimpers
electrical tape or heat shrink tubing
18 or 16 ga wire (to power the switch)
Start by removing everything as the O.P. described
Pins 1 and 3 (see diagram below)are you low-voltage activation wires
Pins 3 and 5 are your "high current" wires...
Here is what we are going to do, hook up your existing relay, to a switch so you can decide to keep the power on, or off, so if someone does need to power something when the car is off, you can just, flick a switch..
Below is a two diagrams:
1.make your "power cable"
using your minimum 18 ga wire, make the cable long enough to go from wherever you are getting power from to the switch (make it an extra foot or two longer for slack)
2.solder your fuse holder onto one side of the wire and solder the other side of the wire the switch, cover your connections (electrical tape, or heat-shrink tubing)...
3.Solder a wire to the other terminal of the switch, make sure it has enough room to go from the switch, to where your mounting that factory relay and mayb a little extra, and crimp on a female spade connector to the loose end
4.You will need to make two jumper wires...16ga or 14ga the thicker the wire the better (better safe then sorry). Simply make the two wires long enough to go from the factory relay socket, to where you are mounting the relay... strip both ends of both wires, and crimp on female spade connectors on the side going to the relay and male spade connectors on the other side...
(Be carefull on this next step, if your battery is hooked up, these wires could be "hot" DONT LET THEM TOUCH ANYTHING
5.Install the male side of one jumper cable into the factory socket pin 3, and the second jumper wire male side in the factory socket pin 5.
6.Connect the female spade of one jumper cable onto the factory relay pin 3, and the second jumper wire female side on the relay pin 5
7.Grab your switch (which should have your "power cable" soldered onto it, and a wire soldered to it with a female spade connector.. )Plug the female spade onto pin 1 of the factory relay
8.Now, make a wire that has a female spade connector on one end, and a ring termail on the other, this will be your ground wire. Connect the female spade connector to the factory relay, and ground the other end by securing it to some metal (easy place is the sheet metal in the drivers kick panel) by screwing it in (use a star washer to lock the screw in...) with a self-tapping screw...
Double check all your connections, cover all bare wire connections, and mount your switch...
9.Connect the power cable to a constant +12 volt line (you can even use the power from one of the two jumpers your installing if your feeling a little advanced(you would need to test which one is power..like i said, i dont have one, cant test it))
You should be able to hear the relay click if you flick the switch back and forth, and your cigarette lights will switch between constant and switched power...
You now have a switch to select the power to the lighter plugs to be constant or accessory...
