coolant temp sensor

Are the crush washers the same for the coolant temp sensor and the fuel rail jumper? The one on the sensor looked copper vs the one for the fuel rail looking steel. Does it matter?
 
Recently my temp gauge has been acting up. Once the engine has warmed up it reads normal, somewhere right in the middle, but it will randomly start bouncing from normal back down to cold, back and fourth rapidly. Almost like an old speedometer would do right before the speedo cable would break. Anyone ever have an issue like this? Think the sensor may be the culprit?
 
Coolant temp and ECT Sensor

Hi Guys,

I would like to stop the high idle on cold start on 2017 5th Gen. I live in Arizona and get 2000 rpms in the morning when it is 75 degrees outside. Thanks for moving past the debate on why shifting into reverse out of my garage in the morning at 2000 rpms is just fine on the transmission. I am also not liking the option of burning 2 min of gas idling waiting for 2000 rpms to go to 1200 rpms.

From what I read, the high idle comes from ect sensor sensing colder coolant in the morning. So, I am thinking I could heat up the coolant (with some external heat source) or maybe I should focus on locating the actual ect sensor and warm that up?

Appreciate any thoughts.
 
There's a pic of the temp sensor for the cluster gauge on post 11.

Thanks HiLife. I tried to attach that photo from Post 11 and red circle the sensor to verify I located.
 

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You might want to ask your question on the 5th gen section. Or maybe the mods can move your question to the proper section so you can get the proper help.

Thanks again HiLife. I realized too late I posted in 3rd gen and certainly possible sensor location has changed since.
 
I would like to add to this thread. I recently just picked up/bought a diamond in the rough. Mine is a 1999 4runner limited. Needs lots of little things. But did this rear sensor today and after pondering how to go about this all morning what I did was took the hood off set that aside then popped the heater hose out of the way and then if you get over top of the sensor you can see it and there is a relieve cut mad in the plastic for a socket to slide right down. Took my 12mm deep socket with a few extensions and took out the part went to the auto parts store got the new one and then wrapped electrical tape around the hex part (so once you put it in it won't side out/off) then put it on with an oversized socket tightened it down and started the truck up and sure enough it fixed my problem
Hope this helps anyone in need of replacing this sensor.
 
We forgot about this and the temperature gauge wasn't working. We spent an afternoon tracing the front sensor wire and cleaned all the connectors and tested the voltages and resistance of those leads with no solution beyond confirming that the sensor was not at fault. Thank you so much for this tip and picture! We went back through our pictures and found one showing that connector dangling unconnected! Back in business!
 
Thanks HiLife. I tried to attach that photo from Post 11 and red circle the sensor to verify I located.

Hey, sorry to bring a thread back from the dead but I'm dealing with this issue and I cannot for the life of me, find this sensor. This photo is helpful but without context its still hard to find. I'm looking on the driver side close to the firewall.

Can someone post or PM me a video of where it is? A youtube link works too, but haven't found it on there myself.

Anything helps, thanks!

-T
 
Ah ya thank you, that's the one in the front of the engine.

There's apparently a second one between the engine and firewall that is hidden away and hard to reach. It's the one that communicates the coolant temp to the dash gauge. Unfortunately, that's the one I'm having an issue finding.
The picture on the second page is pretty clear. Find the fuel lines, follow it back to the regulator (rear driver's side of the engine). The black mass at the right of the picture is the firewall. The bigger hose goes up to the heater valve high on the firewall... You will be looking in from the back corner of the bay near the driver's door.

I'm not sure which side is easier for physical access... hopefully you don't have to remove the intake manifold to work on it.

-Charlie
 

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