Cornfed - Daystar Install Instruction Errors - Shortcomings

[damengr]

Last Friday I installed a Cornfed 1.25" (this is custom compared to the 1" standard leveling kit) leveling kit for the front end. In the process, I noticed some things that I thought others may benefit from. I am fairly new to this site since having purchased a used 2003 4Runner Limited last October. I have used this site to learn more about my vehicle and have greatly appreciated others insights and modification ideas/instructions. So I thought I would return the favor, albeit in a small way.

1) Cornfed states that the top three bolts need to be torqued to 35 foot-pounds. The Toyota Factory Manual says 47 foot-pounds. I recognize that Cornfed supplied bolts are slightly different in size and that specified torque difference is minor. Regardless, I torqued mind to 47 ft-lbs.

2) Both Cornfed and Daystar indicate that with the XREAS system you must keep the coilover assembly attached by the hydraulic line and to avoid stretching the line. The Toyota Factory Manual provides instructions for overhauling the coilover assembly for the XREAS system which includes the provision to disconnect the hose without depressurizing or compromising the system in anyway. Next to the bracket that supports the line is a double nut assembly in the line. Manual shows to hold the nut fitting next to the bracket and turn the nut fitting opposite the bracket to disconnect. There is a schrader valve internally at this connection point that keeps the system sealed like a tire stem. This allows complete removal of the coilover assembly for servicing.

3) Although they both recommend a front-end alignment be performed after the install, which is good advice, neither say anything about lubing the u-joints on the driveshafts. 4Runner u-joints are greasable. With a leveling or lift kit, the new raised stance extends the slip-yoke on the front driveshaft at the transfer case connection point. Therefore, it is a good idea to grease this joint to fill the void created by the change in geometry created by the leveling or lift kit. Apply the right grease type at each fitting per the Toyota Factory Manual.

For further information manuals on CD can be had on ebay for less then $10 in most cases or from a dealer. Sorry, I am computer challenged and not much good at posting pics.

Hope this proves useful to some folks.

 

[Jaebster]

Thanks for the heads up. Good post.

 

[Falls]

Its funny you brought this up , when I went to a shop about the lift install , they said they can disconnect it without a problem and reassemble. I said BS it can't be done !!!! as others here have claimed. Interesting to hear this.

Is there a way to get a manual , hard copy book type that explains this ??

 

[damengr]

Regarding the manuals, I purchased a Toyota shop manual on ebay for about $8. It is in pdf format and is tricky to search, especially since Toyota uses somewhat different nomenclature for vehicle components compared to other car manufacturers. I also suspect my manual is not complete since it may be a pirated version. Toyota dealerships sell the hard bound manuals for about $50 each which are the same thing. I believe there are three manuals for the 4Runner: mechanical, electrical, and body. So you want to make sure you are getting the one of interest. I only have the mechanical. Compared to other shop manuals, I find the Toyota ones to be the worst as far as detail of instructions and accompanying diagrams. The one anomally is the suspension system and engine, transmission and transfer case overhaul. The manual goes into great detail on how to service the suspension with many very helpful blowup diagrams and hints to avoid problems dissembling and assembling components include the XREAS system. If someone could guide me how to post on this site the few relevant pages on the XREAS system from the pdf file, I would be happy to.

I know the XREAS shocks can be disconnected without harming the system, because I did it just like the manual said. I suspect that dealerships and aftermarket companies shy away from mentioning it because they don't want to be held responsible in case someone messes up and claims they were only doing what they were told.

My dealership didn't want to give me the TSB on how to fix the sunroof from not closing properly in cold weather for fear of me screwing up the repair and then somehow blaming them. So I went online, purchased the TSB, bought the repair kit and fixed my sunroof the same day I installed the Cornfed leveling kit with no problems. I saved $150 in labor that the dealership quoted me and I suspect I saved a simliar amount installing the leveling kit myself. I do have a good set of tools for a shade tree mechanic which made the job go much easier. It wasn't too long ago that I had only a few tools and junk at that so attempting any auto repairs was a major nightmare.

 

[trd2001]

I believe they (Cornfed & Daystar) dont recommend to remove the XREAS due to liability issues. You can do it on the truck. It just a bit more difficult. When i removed the XREAS from my truck completly, the driver side front leaked a few drops.

 

[Falls]

Since I don't have have a manual , cant someone show me exactly where I can disconnect without an issue ?

Can I disconnect it buy the front bracket where the rubber hose connects to the bracket and comes out in a steel line OR do I disconnect it on the sides along the frame rail ??

 

[Spider5]

Its funny you brought this up , when I went to a shop about the lift install , they said they can disconnect it without a problem and reassemble. I said BS it can't be done !!!! as others here have claimed. Interesting to hear this.

Is there a way to get a manual , hard copy book type that explains this ??

Not true (2 YEARS AGO)

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showt...12396&perpage=15&highlight=xreas&pagenumber=2

 

[trd2001]

Since I don't have have a manual , cant someone show me exactly where I can disconnect without an issue ?

Can I disconnect it buy the front bracket where the rubber hose connects to the bracket and comes out in a steel line OR do I disconnect it on the sides along the frame rail ??

There is a point on all shock where the rubber hose goes in to the steel line. The front is above the cv's and the rear is where the hose meets the frame. They are a silver nut, there is two of them. That is where you could remove them. I may have the shop manual saved on my home computer.

 

[Spider5]

There is a point on all shock where the rubber hose goes in to the steel line. The front is above the cv's and the rear is where the hose meets the frame. They are a silver nut, there is two of them. That is where you could remove them. I may have the shop manual saved on my home computer.

That sounds like how I remember doing it. You might get a couple of drops of fluid out but very little.

 

[Falls]

When you disconnect it there is a valve that keep the system sealer from what the Toyota guy told us.

 

[damengr]

When you disconnect it there is a valve that keep the system sealer from what the Toyota guy told us.

Yes, that is what I said. The line is sealed with a schrader valve like on a tire stem. When the two nuts are tightened, the valve is opened and the system is linked together. When the double nuts are loosened, the valve closes and the system remains sealed when the hose to the shock is disconnected.

I also pointed out that the double nut assembly is next to the bracket that attaches the hose to the frame. It is the only connection within the line anywhere near the wheel well so it's not hard to locate. And yes, a very very small amount of residual hydraulic fluid weeped out during the initial disconnect, just like air leaks out of a tire when removing a tire gage. The loss is minimal. If someone repeatedly connected and disconnected the line say 50-100 times then you may have a problem with too much loss of fluid. The manual says not to overtighten the nuts when re-connecting. Leave a 1 mm gap between nut faces. I noticed when I disconnected mine that I could almost do it by hand without a wrench. It took very little effort to break the nut loose and then I spun it off the rest of the way by hand. The threads are very long at the connection to make a good seal like on a propane gas bottle.

 

[Falls]

So I disconnect it at the bracket and not at the bottom of the shock , correct ???

Toyota mech. said bottom of shock .

 

[damengr]

DO NOT and I stress DO NOT disconnect at bottom of the shock. I can't believe a Toyo mech. could be so wrong. If you do that you will drain all the hydraulic oil at of the rubber hose line and don't know what the ramifications could be since the manual doesn't address this issue but suspect you will be buying a new shock.

I believe the shocks are gas filled (?) than at the bottom there is a diaphram where the system converts to hydraulic oil which continues through the line that interconnects the opposite corners of the vehicle. The reason for the change for gas to a liquid is that a liquid has a quicker response time in transferring load.

No, the disconnect point is where the line transitions from a rubber hose to metal conduit. This transition point is supported by a metal bracket that supports the connection point. The bracket is attached to the frame. The rubber hose allows flex as the a-arms flex, whereas once you get past the a-arms, the line can be securely fastened to the frame.

It sounds like you are still unsure as to the disconnect location. If so, best thing to do is to get a manual or find someone who has one and print the pages on the REAS overhaul. The manual couldn't be any more clear. A CD version is great since you can print pages and use them while you work and even get them dirty and then toss when done. I actually check the procedures with a big red pen as I go so if I get distracted I know where I left off.