Crank Bolt Tightening

[02SE]

Again, I am fully aware of the 2x disasters. Putting both holes on the centerline and cutting the board right after the hole will virtually guarantee the board will split and no one who knows wood would ever do it that way. The failures I saw all had one or both defects. But lousy execution of anything we do in life will bite you in the butt. I assert a Durk-built 2x rig IS the right tool for the job and I object to accusations of Mickeymouseitude.

I'll just wish you and any others using that method good luck.

I also successfully did the starter bump to remove the bolt--with the rad in place--and I'd do it again if I had to. (I hadn't built the tool yet.) As with the 2x4, there is a right way and a wrong way, and the right tool in the wrong hands is no guarantee of success.

I wish I could remember which website I saw the aftermath of someone using that technique, and their results. They were lucky it only cost them major inconvenience, and a new radiator. You are absolutely right, some people have no business wrenching on machines, even with the correct tools for the job.

Fortunately, everyone has some type of marketable ability.

I started wrenching on tractors when I was 11 or 12, and I still do. Tractors are very unforgiving of dumb mistakes. Big pieces of cast iron and spinning steel can kill you. I learned safety early and I still have all my body parts.

There is no substitute for an understanding of the forces involved and the strength and other characteristics of the materials employed.

I started working on cars at about the same age. These days I work and/or consult on ridiculously overpowered racing machines. Which can potentially seriously injure or kill anyone in their vicinity, if they are not put together or tuned correctly.

Have a nice day.

 

[Singtoe]

I use the chain method (albeit a stronger chain and a higher grade bolt) all the time to remove and install HB bolts. Never have any problems.


Shorten the chain up and mount it some on the engine like the power steering mount. This way the motor doesn't torque in its mount.

 

[dnath28]

Shorten the chain up and mount it some on the engine like the power steering mount. This way the motor doesn't torque in its mount.

So thats what I was screwing up. I need to mount some of the chain on the bracket as well. I also need to get some decent bolts. What grade is best? I just tried the wood method and my result was 2 bent bolts and also a bent extension for my socket. The combination of those 3 things was what even let it give to allow me to what I thought "tighten" it. I was just bending all the metal...

It seems like this crank bolt isn't going to get any tighter. I will go back to the chain method and mount it to the bracket with better grade bolts and use a torque wrench to see what the lb/ft is currently at.

Ugh I just want this to be over already... This is crazy.

 

[dnath28]

Update

So after calling 5 advanced auto parts and hearing none of them had a 250 lb torque wrench I decided to 'buy' one at home depot and return it after I used it.

When checking out my crank bolt.. turns out the torque wrench clicked when I pulled on it like I was before. So appears its tightened up to 217..

Right after tightening I proceeded to put on pulleys and tighten the alternator tensioner and the bolt snapped right off.. (I guess the tensioner is nowhere near 217 lbs/ft lol..)

So just bought that replacement part. When thats shipped in and installed, everything should be finished up. Hopefully I put on water pump and timing correctly..

Only concern now is my radiator engine lines that the coolant flows through. Anyone know if oil in it can ruin anything over time? I am not sure if my many drains of water through it got it all out. Should I be concerned?

Thanks,
Dan

 

[LittleCaesar]

Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

For the three drive belt tensioner bolts, just tighten them enough to where the A/C belt has about 1/2" deflection in the center, the ALT belt about 3/8" to 1/2" and the PS pump belt 1/4-3/8" deflection.

 

[audiness]

Let us know how your trans holds up after the pink milkshake.

 

[dnath28]

Let us know how your trans holds up after the pink milkshake.

The transmission was unaffected I believe. All the pressure forced oil upward and into the overfill reservoir for my coolant. I just did a trans flush and swapped out radiator.

But will keep everyone updated.

My tensioner part comes in tomorrow. Should be back on the road then!

 

[dnath28]

Let us know how your trans holds up after the pink milkshake.

Here is your update:

It is 07/22/2015 and everything has held up fine with no issues..

However, I have just found out both of my rear axle seals went... So onto this issue now!

 

[3bears]

Here is your update:

It is 07/22/2015 and everything has held up fine with no issues..

However, I have just found out both of my rear axle seals went... So onto this issue now!

the fun never stops

 

[LittleCaesar]

Good to hear.

Make sure when you replace the seals that you also replace the breather on top of the axle housing, regardless if it is seized shut or not.

 

[dnath28]

Good to hear.

Make sure when you replace the seals that you also replace the breather on top of the axle housing, regardless if it is seized shut or not.

Thanks for the tip...

Should I install an "extended breather"?

 

[LittleCaesar]

Having been in a winter once in the Steel City, I would in a heartbeat.

 

[Mean Kitty]

Harmonic Balancer Wobble

Just picked up a new (to me) 2002 4runner. Its got 230k miles on it, but seems to run fairly decent so far. Today I decided to get my hands dirty with an oil change, and then preformed the installation of an external cooler for the transmission to avoid any chance of getting a pink milkshake where I don't want one While working on the 4runner I noticed the Harmonic Balancer had a little bit of a wobble in it. The guy I bought this from had it changed out 204k and I could see some marks on the pullys from the tool they must have used to hold it in place. But it seems to be on tight, it doesn't jiggle at all when you pull on it or try and wobble it back and forth. I am wondering if the bold might not be torqued on all the way and that might be causing a little bit of wobble. Or is this just normal. I took a short video to show it running and the amount of movement while the engine is running. https://youtu.be/nYEpoitSsvk should hopefully work. Anyways, if anyone has a chance to take a look at the video and let me know if I should be concerned about this, or what would be the next thing to do to fix this if it is a problem. Thanks so much for the help.

Mean Kitty

 

[TheDurk]

I don't think there is any way to know for sure without breaking it down to look. It is certainly NOT normal and I would do this if it were mine.

Why did he replace the HB? If there was a hack job on the timing belt where the bolt was not torgued to the spec 217 ft-lbs, and then the HB came loose and grenaded, it may have damaged the crank snout by wearing it to a slight taper. Quite possible if it was bad enough to ruin the HB. There is no fix for that. If torqued to spec, it won't come loose but the vibration created does not bode well for the long term health of the engine. Cranks are supposed to turn smooth.

If you don't break it down to look, then at least check the torque on that crank bolt. Bad things happen when they come loose. Then pray for the life of your engine.

 

[Mean Kitty]

Thanks for the quick reply TheDurk. The most I can tell from why it was changed, is off the car fax report which this repair dated back to 9/11/2012 and it looks like the timing belt/tensioner/idler where checked. Radiator was replaced, the it says that the Crankshaft pulley/balancer was replaced along with the drive belts. I am hoping, that the place that did the work just didn't tension the bolt tight enough, and over time its being working itself loose. I've only had the 4runner for a couple weeks and have been working on changing fluids, and doing small fixes.

Since this is not looking proper, and I really hate to take any chances with more damage being caused, I am thinking I should take it apart and install a new HB, and since it will be all apart go ahead and replace the timing belt, the 3 drive belts. Anything else I should do while its apart? I am figuring I will be pulling the radiator out, so I'll do a flush on that and then new fluid as well.

All the other pully's on the front of the engine and components seem to be running really smooth. Where does everyone like to buy parts from for this sort of job?

Also other parts I should buy when tearing this apart?

Mean Kitty

 

[Mean Kitty]

Got some parts ordered:

HB - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SG96LY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

Timing belt & water pump kit - Amazon.com: TBK Timing Belt Kit Toyota 4Runner 1996 to 2002 3.4L 5VZFE V6: Automotive

And ordered a new HB Crankshaft bolt toyota part #90119-16006

Figure since I'll have all this stuff apart I'll change everything out, so I know it will hopefully be good for a pile of miles I so wish I was adding some lightbars or something cool to the truck instead of this stuff right now. But I'd rather make sure everything is in good shape before I take it out on some trails.

Mean Kitty

 

[Unner]

A new member doing maintenance first, what a sight!

Make sure you have a torque wrench that goes high enough for that crank bolt and a means to hold the pulley still while you crank down on it. Some people make their own holders, I chose to just buy the special tool and not fool around with that.

Have fun replacing that timing belt tensioner... It's a pain to say the least.

 

[Mean Kitty]

You wouldn't happen to have a part# on the tool you used would you? I was thinking of making my own, based off a few that I've seen on here. But since this is sounds like its going to be a pain in the butt job, anything that will make it easier without costing an arm and leg I'd be up for

Mean Kitty

 

[Unner]

You wouldn't happen to have a part# on the tool you used would you? I was thinking of making my own, based off a few that I've seen on here. But since this is sounds like its going to be a pain in the butt job, anything that will make it easier without costing an arm and leg I'd be up for

Mean Kitty

http://www.amazon.com/Schley-Products-Harmonic-Damper-Holding/dp/B012UUE1DY

This is the one I used. Super easy to use and no fooling around. Just anchor it with a breaker bar to the frame, and then get your biggest breaker bar and break that sucker loose.

 

[EvilMole]

Just recently went thru this myself.

Starter method to get the bolt off worked for me. It was off with the first crank. Used a 2x4 and a couple of 5/16" bolts to keep the engine from turning when I went to tighten the crankshaft bolt. 3/8" bolts wouldn't quite fit into the holes of the HB. Hardened 5/16" bolts would have been better than what I used, but in the end what I had worked. The bolts just weren't reusable afterwards.

The back tensioner bolt can be accessed without removing the AC bracket. I picked up a 1/4" universal joint and strung together a couple of 1/4" extensions to get to it. The universal joint was kind of floppy so I just loosely wrapped some duct tape around it to keep it from falling over. You can reach around the front with your other hand to help guide the back bolt bolt in as well.