Crazydubman's 97 limited runner build

[crazydubman]

hey its not everyday you see an IFS do that!! LOL!

Haha. Do what? :yo:

 

[Stockwell45]

Yeah that's some sweet flex! Although looks like you could use some more skids by the pics you texted me!

Sorry I've been taking forever to write back, the damn tower by my house is down.

 

[crazydubman]

Oh I definitely need some skids. I don't think my stock cross members will fair to well after too many more of those runs.

 

[FrankM23]

two questions for you! 1. i'm contemplating these 305's. did you rub on your stock UCA before you got the aftermarket UCA's? 2. You obviously drive this thing everyday. How much of a hit with gas did you take. I'll be pushing these with my 4 cylinder so I'm trying to get a ballpark.

 

[crazydubman]

two questions for you! 1. i'm contemplating these 305's. did you rub on your stock UCA before you got the aftermarket UCA's? 2. You obviously drive this thing everyday. How much of a hit with gas did you take. I'll be pushing these with my 4 cylinder so I'm trying to get a ballpark.

First off I had to do a lot of trimming with these. I refuse to do a body lift on this runner so that made it nessesary to do what I have done to make them fit. With that said, if you want to just run a 4.5BS 16x8" wheel or stock with spacer, be prepared to gut the front fender molding to really be able to use the whole travel.

With my 4.5BS 16x8" wheels, at full droop with the top out spacers it would just start to contact the UCA. I posted a picture a few pages back of the rub spots I had with just the top out spacers, 305's and the racelines. There was never any damage to the tire because of that minor rubbing, it's just there. I was rubbing on the firewall pinch weld after lots of pounding, rubbing the rear of the frame at full lock, the UCA barely on full droop, and the inner fender at the bump under the battery and air filter. This was all with the top out spacer limiting uptravel. The MTR's really are a large tire. a 305 KM2 may fit easier but I can't confirm that.

The rear I had to do some work as well. the whole fender lip was rolled up and out of the way as I was grabbing the front section by the rear door and pulling it down with the lugs. The rear of the arch right where the bumper meets, I still make slight contact at that corner on the molding. Hoping that will be corrected soon.

As far as mileage drop, I have never driven this thing with a stock tire. It had a blown head gasket when I got it so it was driven up on the trailer, off the trailer and into my garage with the stock tires. the 305's were mounted up two days later. Also take into consideration, I have the factory 4.30's with the limited and E-locker package so if your current gears are 4.10's or numerically lower, you may experience more or a hit to your mileage. I am averaging only about 220-230 a tank so not great. About 13.5-14mpg is about where im at with everything currently on it. (Rack, bumpers, and all) Consider that I don't drive 55-60 much at all and my commute is a 15 miles one way in traffic in a metropolitian area. If i cruised at 55-60 and could set the druise control, i'm sure the mileage figures would be better.

If you can compare to your current tire weight, the 305 MTR's weight in at 62 lbs a piece in an E load. To put it in comparison, the 285/75's weigh in at 60lbs in an E load. (Hop on tirerack and check out your model of tire's specs. They usually have the weights listed)

The KM2's on 305/70 or 285/75 are 59lbs a piece in a D load.

Toyo Open Country MT's are 71.7 lbs for the 305's at an E load and 68.3 lbs for the 285's at an E load. Take that for what you will.

All in all I wouldn't have chosen another tire size as I have always prefered a wider tire to a skinny tire. Plus with the original plan of 1 ton axles and 38's, I knew I was going to have to cut alot anyways.

Hopefully that answers the questions you had about the 305's. They take a lot of work to get to fit correctly and be able to use the full travel. However, they look amazing when they are mounted and they work awesome.

 

[FrankM23]

Awesome. Yeah my wheels are at 4.25 backspacing so i may just get away with it. Mine is base so ill definitely have a body lift. No flares to cover up the cutting

 

[crazydubman]

You will need a 1.5-2" bodylift and still be trimming the corners of the fenders and pounding the firewall.

 

[crazydubman]

Here are a few more videos that Drew was able to get host.

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/64279422" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/64022976">IMG 5619</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user14785264">Andrew McKee Pittenger</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/64278745" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/64022976">IMG 5619</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user14785264">Andrew McKee Pittenger</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

A bit of 2 wheelin. Still getting used to the runners limits. Probably could have gone a bit farther forward before backing off.

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/64282656" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/64022976">IMG 5619</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user14785264">Andrew McKee Pittenger</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

And don't you just love metal on metal rubbing....

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/64282655" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/64022976">IMG 5619</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user14785264">Andrew McKee Pittenger</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

 

[smkd13]

hey did you ever get your UCAs on the rear done btw?

 

[crazydubman]

The upper rear links have not been changed out yet. I still need to cut down the bushing sleeve about 3/8" in order for it to fit in the smaller upper link bushing mounts. Things have been very busy lately and I haven't had the chance to get to it.

Shouldn't take more than a couple hours all said and done when I get around to it.

I'm also starting on my storage shelf for the cargo area so that is taking some time as well.

 

[smkd13]

Nice I will be doing a cargo shelf too. Just lazy lol

I am more than likely going to build upper links in a few weeks. Going with the same bolt size though. You wouldn't happen to have the ID widths for the mounts would you.

 

[crazydubman]

Sorry I do not.

I held up the links once they were finished and roughly measured. I see to get them done soon though.

 

[smkd13]

Well if you get them done before I do how about posting up some measurements for your viewing public. Lol

 

[crazydubman]

For anyone interested in the gas tank skid or following up on the full set of skids that Any7Offroad is building for production, here is the link I started to gain interest in their products.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/140279-any7offroad-skidplates.html#post1359422

 

[crazydubman]

I stopped by Any7 after work and they actually just about finished up the front skid. The crossmembers reinforcements and skids mounts are already complete.

Here are the pictures that I was able to take. Things should pretty much be finished up by next week I think. Pretty excited. They will be taking into account room to remove CV's without dropping the skid.
These are built around a 1" diff drop as most of us are running one anyways.

The front skids have a smooth angle on the leading edge unlike every other company out there. This should allow easier approach angles without hanging up on a 90 degree edge.

These will all be eventually in production.

One thing to consider. The original one (mine) they welded all the panels together. The production pieces will be primarily press bend to shape to limit the welds and help the finished product look "prettier".

Enjoy the pictures and post up your thoughts.



A shot of their logo





This mounts to the factory swaybar mounts and is a solid mounting point for the front and center skids





Rough idea of how it mounts just a couple bolts through the sides





The tabs for mounting to the crossmembers



A shot of the gusseting on the front edge









Thats all I got for now. I should be bringing the runner back in during the middle of next week to finish everything up.

Stay tuned. :yo:

 

[Kurtis]

Very nice! A couple of those pieces look like 1/4" steel. I like the idea of mounting it to the factory sway bar mounts. Genius!

 

[T4Rex.]

I dig it man...really like the mounting points on it!! pretty brilliant

 

[crazydubman]

Very nice! A couple of those pieces look like 1/4" steel. I like the idea of mounting it to the factory sway bar mounts. Genius!

Thanks man. All of the steel I believe is 3/16"

The swaybar mounting points was the obvious choice. Made for a perfect location to add some reinforcement and make it a bolt on setup.

My thoughts were shared by Any7 in that if you are wheeling hard enough to need skids, you more than likely have pulled your front swaybar right? :bigok:

 

[4Running Daily]

My thoughts were shared by Any7 in that if you are wheeling hard enough to need skids, you more than likely have pulled your front swaybar right? :bigok:

Sway bar, psshhh who needs those.

 

[Kurtis]

Thanks man. All of the steel I believe is 3/16"

The swaybar mounting points was the obvious choice. Made for a perfect location to add some reinforcement and make it a bolt on setup.

My thoughts were shared by Any7 in that if you are wheeling hard enough to need skids, you more than likely have pulled your front swaybar right? :bigok:

I don't have mine connected right now but I do like to have it installed when I need to get some of that Gymkhana out of my system....