Crossdrilled/Slotted Rotors for 05 V8 Sport??

[The Razor]

Does anyone know where I could find a set to fit my 4R? It's more for appearance and to set my truck apart then performance.

Thanks,
George.

 

[Casper]

no company that i have come across makes any that work with the OEM brake setup...

 

[The Razor]

Thanks. I have ended up at the same conclusion so far.

 

[TeCKis300]

It's a terrible idea IMO just for some bling bling.

- Rotors are not as durable
- Prone to cracking
- Eat through pads
- Lots of brake dust
- Prone to warpage
- Noisy

 

[Grease Monkey]

Try Jason B.

Hey,
I don't know if this is the exact thing you are looking for but i found this last night visiting Jason B.'s Site.

http://www.burtmanindustries.com/zoomprod.php?id=4run_d_rotors_03_up

 

[The Razor]

It's a terrible idea IMO just for some bling bling.

- Rotors are not as durable
- Prone to cracking
- Eat through pads
- Lots of brake dust
- Prone to warpage
- Noisy

I have a full Baer brake setup on my Saleen. It's a 2000 and not one single problem has occured. The downsides you listed are not of any concern to me nor have I experienced any with my Saleen. Thanks for your input though.:

 

[The Razor]

Re: Try Jason B.

Hey,
I don't know if this is the exact thing you are looking for but i found this last night visiting Jason B.'s Site.

http://www.burtmanindustries.com/zoomprod.php?id=4run_d_rotors_03_up

Hey good find. I'm going to check with him to see if they will fit the sport.

 

[olliebear]

You're buying quality with Baer stuff.

I have a full Baer brake setup on my Saleen. It's a 2000 and not one single problem has occured. The downsides you listed are not of any concern to me nor have I experienced any with my Saleen. Thanks for your input though.:

quality don't come cheap and Baer, Saleen, Stillen, all make or market high end stuff. In fact Baer specializes in racing brakes for the professional level. All those cracking and warping problems stem from improper heat treating of hte rotors or lesser quality steel or manufacturing process. High end rotors and calipers will withstand high levels of heat to prevent high heat/fast cool down that causes warpage. They also use multi piston calipers for increased stopping power.

Afterthought, Les Baer, one of the Baer family members, makes one high end bitching no BS "social work" 1911 .45 ACP. The logo on the grip panels have a stylized drag racer to symbolize Baer family's racing roots.

 

[Koz]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyo...ewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQitemZ8001896273QQrdZ1

Koz

 

[TeCKis300]

I have a full Baer brake setup on my Saleen. It's a 2000 and not one single problem has occured. The downsides you listed are not of any concern to me nor have I experienced any with my Saleen. Thanks for your input though.:

You are right, slotting and cross drilling has it's place, but you and I both know that just getting the average replacement rotor with crossdrilling and slots will not not result in the upgrade you have. These are added as an afterthought to blank rotors and not integral to it's designed funcion.

As it is, people already complain about warped stock rotors...A run of the mill aftermarket rotor willl DEFINITELY warp and crack.

 

[Casper]

It's a terrible idea IMO just for some bling bling.

- Rotors are not as durable
- Prone to cracking
- Eat through pads
- Lots of brake dust
- Prone to warpage
- Noisy

Teck.....i wonder what would bring you to say such things? If the rotors are made from high quality materials and have good qulity control, they can actually last as long or longer than alot of OEM rotors.

Cross Drilled rotors certainly are more prone to cracking but thats under high temp situations (such as drag racing or tracking the truck)

They do eat through pads faster but thats an offset with the possible reduction in stopping distance (a possible benefit) but more along the lines of repeatable stopping distance over time.

Lots of brake dust? That has nothing to do with the rotors but more the pads

Noisy? Again the pads have more to do with that than rotors do unless they were floating hat rotors which i know of NONE for the 4runner

Prone to warping? Still again, when used as directed (street use only) and not for racing, they should not warp if they are quality rotors.

 

[TeCKis300]

Teck.....i wonder what would bring you to say such things? If the rotors are made from high quality materials and have good qulity control, they can actually last as long or longer than alot of OEM rotors.

Very true...but I challenge you to find a basic rotor kit for the 4runner that fits these qualities. You will find most if not all of them to be standard brembo blanks or other lesser manufacturers rotors just crossdrilled and slotted by the distributor.


Cross Drilled rotors certainly are more prone to cracking but thats under high temp situations (such as drag racing or tracking the truck)

Under daily street conditions, you will hardly challenge the braking system. But a supposed "upgrade" like this will only diminish the t4r's braking performance. Less rotor mass from the removal of material means higher peak brake temps during those necessary moments as hauling a full load and towing down a long stretch of fwy. This is a truck after all and it's very important to have a good braking system with a full load.


They do eat through pads faster but thats an offset with the possible reduction in stopping distance (a possible benefit) but more along the lines of repeatable stopping distance over time.

Again, with a basic "upgrade" like this, you will NOT see shorter braking distances. Modern pads do not "gas" under use so cross drilling is irrelevant. Slots only serve to wipe the pad clean but do nothing to increase the coefficient of friction. Both inherently reduce rotor mass and will cause higher brake temps and hence fade quicker.

Lots of brake dust? That has nothing to do with the rotors but more the pads

Yes, aftermarket pads will be dustier, but with pads being equal, the slotting will tend to "bite" more pad off accelerating it's wear and creating more dust.


Noisy? Again the pads have more to do with that than rotors do unless they were floating hat rotors which i know of NONE for the 4runner

Again, aftermarket pads may squeal more but I was referring to the noise created when the slots sweep pass the pads. This noise is obvious with all the cars I have been in that have such a setup especially with windows down and braking against an concrete wall barrier.


Prone to warping? Still again, when used as directed (street use only) and not for racing, they should not warp if they are quality rotors.

Relative to the full stock rotor, a basic slotted/CD aftermarket one will not last as long because it is a downgrade

I'm all for the aftermarket well engineered full braking systems but I don't see this supposed upgrade following this path.

 

[Casper]

I dont see it really as either and upgrade or a degrade...as for most applications such a setup with quality parts would be of equal performance.

I guess we both see the sides to this...im not about to swap out for rotors, as swapping pads, fluid and lines is by far and above the stronger option.

 

[TeCKis300]

...im not about to swap out for rotors, as swapping pads, fluid and lines is by far and above the stronger option. [/B]

This I can wholeheartedly agree upon!

Do some looking around though and you will learn about the pitfalls of cosmetic rotor upgrades.

 

[TeCKis300]

Let me help with some references:

Snippet from Stop Tech technical articals: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakesystems_upgradeselections.shtml

DRILLED VS SLOTTED ROTORS

For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".

Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages.

 

[Casper]

brother, no need for the links....for others maybe but im pretty well versed in brakes.

 

[The Razor]

Both of you make good points, but as far as the negative ones I think the entire reason of me buying them was overlooked. I'm not a brake expert but I am well versed in mechanics. I've also modified cars now for over 13 years. I'm a firm believer in finding out for myself. There were a rash of Cobra owners complaining about the Baer Eradispeed rotors having hairline cracks in them after minimal use. When they asked me about the ones on my Saleen I said "hey, 5 years and no problems!" I don't drive that car hard, the car never needed the upgrade in the first place to boot. I put them on for looks. Who the hell needs a setup like that on the street (LOL!). It's nothing more then a showcar.

Anyway, I'm not concerned about dropping a few hundred bucks on rotors. If they fail then they fail, no big deal. If I find a set that will work I will most likely buy them. I'll be sure to post up the results here so everyone else who may be interested in such a project will know what or what not to expect.

I just ordered my 22's today and think those rotors will look real good sitting behind them. Anyone want a complete set of 20's with tires? Almost brand new with about 5k on them.

George.

 

[ebelen1]

In no way am I a brake or car expert but I do ask a lot of questions. I have a bunch of buddies that have been heavy into modding their cars and some even understand the underlying theory very well.

As far as CD/slotted rotors, I was told that the actual size of the rotor makes a huge difference on the performance. For example, CD rotors only work after a certain size; I believe this to be over 9 inches but I could be completely wrong. Any thoughts on this?

 

[TeCKis300]

At some point where the rotor is large enough and there is more than enough mass to sink the heat of the braking event...Cross drilling helps to lighten the static weight of the rotor hence reducing unsprung weight which increases suspension performance.

In other words, larger rotors are helpful because they allow more braking torque on the wheel given the same caliper clamping force. But in order to make the rotor larger diameter wise, more material, read mass, is used. Additional mass is unecessary beyond a certain point to prevent higher peak rotor temperatures so cross drilling helps to take away some of that mass. You will see this on motorcycles that typically use a large diameter rotor.