Crossed Jumper Cables--no brakes, all maintenance lights on and beeping

[oleblue]

This is my first time posting. I've been a long time 4 runner/Toyota ownerand have enjoyed reading this forum. I just bought a 2005 4 Runner SR5 4x4 V6 knowing it had issues. I bought it at a fair enough price to gamble with it.

The previous owner had a guy jump his battery. Well the guy crossed the jumper cables. Of course there was a spark. Long story short, he corrected the cables and the 4 runner fired right up, but the power brakes no longer work, the dinger/beeper inside the cab is constantly beeping when the key is on, and every maintenance/warning light is on on the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster lights stay on also until you turn the key off, whether the lights are on or not. I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

It starts and runs fine and everything works except the power brakes. You have to really stand on it to get it to stop. This is how I bought it.

I got it home tonight, hooked up a code reader and it has no codes stored. I checked every single fuse inside the fusebox and found that the ABS MTR (I assume ABS Motor) 40amp square fuse was blown. I removed and as soon as I inserted another one it blew even with the key off.

Any ideas as to what the issue is, obviously a short somewhere but any pointers on where to start testing would be appreciated.

 

[Davy180]

I am not to familiar with my 4Runner yet when it comes to wiring and components but I'll try to recommend some ideas.

Looks like you have found a good starting point. I would disconnect the ABS control unit and then plug the fuse in and see if it blows. I am not sure if their is a relay too but if there is I would unplug that too. Most likely the fuse won't blow then. If you have a DVOM test the voltage and amperage at the fuse. Also if you have the wiring diagram find which wires go to the fuse and check for continuity or a cross short to power or ground. 40amp is a lot, what ever you do not put a bigger fuse in it. Most likely you have a bad ABS control unit, computers don't like being jumped backwards. Unfortunately you will probably need to replace all of them.

Good luck and keep us updated on what you find.

 

[oleblue]

I'll check for amperage and voltage today and see what I get. I did unplug two plugs that go to the mastercylinder and the black servo type deal next to it, I assume that's the ABS motor. Fuse still blew with those unplugged. I'll try and round up a wiring diagram.

 

[NuclearN8]

Sounds like your 4Runner flux capacitor is well charged. Where you're going, you don't need brakes! Sorry, couldn't resist

 

[Slowgoat]

Subscribed. op2:

Sounds like an interesting journey. Can't wait to hear how you fix it. I know you can do it. You've got a strong stomach to buy a vehicle like that. Impressive. :cheers:

 

[T101]

Sounds like your 4Runner flux capacitor is well charged. Where you're going, you don't need brakes! Sorry, couldn't resist

I think its the contium transfunctioner

 

[wkeryder4]

Have you tried turning it off and back on again?

 

[MONTYMTB]

The instrument cluster lights stay on also until you turn the key off, whether the lights are on or not. I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

I can't be of any help with the rest of it, but you can cross this one off your list - that is normal.

 

[oleblue]

Sounds like your 4Runner flux capacitor is well charged. Where you're going, you don't need brakes! Sorry, couldn't resist

Yeah that flux capacitor is overflowing with juice now.

Subscribed. op2:

Sounds like an interesting journey. Can't wait to hear how you fix it. I know you can do it. You've got a strong stomach to buy a vehicle like that. Impressive. :cheers:

Inside and out its flawless and I got it cheap enough I could sell it as is and make money.

I think its the contium transfunctioner

I may as well just scrap it now..Autozone was fresh out of the contium transfuctioners, said something to do with global warming.

Have you tried turning it off and back on again?

The ignition? Yes I have. Reset the battery as well.

I can't be of any help with the rest of it, but you can cross this one off your list - that is normal.

Thanks for clearing that up.

 

[A/V1]

So did you physically pull each and every fuse out and check with a meter? I would also suggest unmounting the fuse box in the engine compartment and checking for damage around the relays, wiring, etc. Then do the same for the body ECU, which has the other fuse box attached to it. Don't just visually inspect it, sniff check it too. If something fried, you could easily be able to tell by the sniffaroni check.

The constant dinging / beeping is probably because of the fault in the ABS system. The first things I would do after changing out the fuse, would be remove the ABS MTR Relay, and TRC MTR Relay.
Replace the fuse. The fuse should not blow. If the fuse blows, there is a short in the wiring between the fuse and one of the relays.

Next, unplug the skid control ECU, and the ABS & BA & TRAC & VSC Actuator. NOW, plug in the relays that you removed previously.
The fuse should still be good. If it blew, you have a short between one of the relays, and the actuator.

Next, plug in the actuator. Leave the skid control ECU and yaw rate sensor out (disconnected). My guess is the fuse will blow. But chances are, the skid control ECU will be bad as well. ECUs don't take voltage spikes & reversals too well. But you may have lucked out.

Now, I'm definitely not saying that's the answer to ALL your problems, just the blown 40A ABS MTR fuse.

Let us know what happens next...

 

[A/V1]

VSC Diagram

 

[ddnww]

WE ALREADY HAVE AN OL BLUE :mod::sad:


THAT IS A SCARY CIRCUMSTANCE YOU ARE IN, HOPE YOU GET IT FIGURED OUT, AS YOU CAN SEE I HAVE NO INPUT TO GIVE.:focus:

 

[BlackWorksInc]

How do the fusible links look?

 

[oleblue]

How do the fusible links look?

Where do you mean? In the fusebox? Only things I'm aware of in the fusebox are relays and fuses. Could you clarify please.

I think I made some progress today on it. Earlier I said I unplugged the ABS motor and the fuse still blew. Well I didn't have it completely unplugged. Today with it completely unplugged the fuse did not blow and the beeping inside the cab stopped. The maintenance, ABS, Brake lights are still on but no beeping. I'm fairly certain that the ABS motor assembly has a short inside and it's the culprit. What do you guys think?

 

[Slowgoat]

Where do you mean? In the fusebox? Only things I'm aware of in the fusebox are relays and fuses. Could you clarify please.

Circuit Protection - Fuses, Fusible Links, Circuit Breakers

"FUSIBLE LINKS AND FUSE ELEMENTS
Fusible links are divided into two categories: the fuse element cartridge and the fusible link. The construction and function of fusible links and fuse elements are similar to that of a fuse. The main difference is that the fusible link and fuse element are used to protect higher amperage electrical circuits, generally circuits 30 amps or more. As with fuses, once a fusible link or fuse element blows out, it must be replaced with a new one."

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Apparently 4th gens don't use the newer-ish style fusible links, sorry about that.

I was referring to these things:

It is possible the motor is shorted internally, though I have to wonder if what is controlling the motor may be causing too much current draw. By the way, how are the relays installed? From left to right the Relays should be:

[Blue] [Pink] [Green] You can't really swap them because of pin orientation and count (but they will fit in the wrong slots), so if you think a relay may be stuck on, you need to test it accordingly.

 

[earthrealm]

Where do you mean? In the fusebox? Only things I'm aware of in the fusebox are relays and fuses. Could you clarify please.

I think I made some progress today on it. Earlier I said I unplugged the ABS motor and the fuse still blew. Well I didn't have it completely unplugged. Today with it completely unplugged the fuse did not blow and the beeping inside the cab stopped. The maintenance, ABS, Brake lights are still on but no beeping. I'm fairly certain that the ABS motor assembly has a short inside and it's the culprit. What do you guys think?

i think you could pick up a used ebay unit for the MC assy for abt $350 .your MC unit is definitely toast. [i blew that 40amp fuse on mine cos i still drove it for a while with the bad MC assy :roadkill: -- developed massive calf muscles during that period, and the beeping was non stop...guess the mc assy motor overheated & shorted out, so when i threw in a used unit, it didnt work and stumped the mechanic & i, till it occured to me to check the fuse]

as for the maintaiance light being on.....i would try reseting it to see if it will come back.......have you tried plugging a scan tool on the truck?

 

[oleblue]

Apparently 4th gens don't use the newer-ish style fusible links, sorry about that.

I was referring to these things:

It is possible the motor is shorted internally, though I have to wonder if what is controlling the motor may be causing too much current draw. By the way, how are the relays installed? From left to right the Relays should be:

[Blue] [Pink] [Green] You can't really swap them because of pin orientation and count (but they will fit in the wrong slots), so if you think a relay may be stuck on, you need to test it accordingly.

I'll look tonight when I get home and see how they're installed.

i think you could pick up a used ebay unit for the MC assy for abt $350 .your MC unit is definitely toast. [i blew that 40amp fuse on mine cos i still drove it for a while with the bad MC assy :roadkill: -- developed massive calf muscles during that period, and the beeping was non stop...guess the mc assy motor overheated & shorted out, so when i threw in a used unit, it didnt work and stumped the mechanic & i, till it occured to me to check the fuse]

as for the maintaiance light being on.....i would try reseting it to see if it will come back.......have you tried plugging a scan tool on the truck?

I just ordered a complete unit off Ebay for $355 shipped. I'm gonna be happier than a mole in soft dirt if that fixes everything. I have a code reader/SRS/ABS reader that I plugged in but not a high dollar snap on or anything. Once I get the new unit installed, hopefully that clears the lights. I'm just glad that beeping went away, it was terrible.

 

[NeilC]

This is my first time posting. I've been a long time 4 runner/Toyota ownerand have enjoyed reading this forum. I just bought a 2005 4 Runner SR5 4x4 V6 knowing it had issues. I bought it at a fair enough price to gamble with it.

The previous owner had a guy jump his battery. Well the guy crossed the jumper cables. Of course there was a spark. Long story short, he corrected the cables and the 4 runner fired right up, but the power brakes no longer work, the dinger/beeper inside the cab is constantly beeping when the key is on, and every maintenance/warning light is on on the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster lights stay on also until you turn the key off, whether the lights are on or not. I'm not sure if this is normal or not.

It starts and runs fine and everything works except the power brakes. You have to really stand on it to get it to stop. This is how I bought it.

I got it home tonight, hooked up a code reader and it has no codes stored. I checked every single fuse inside the fusebox and found that the ABS MTR (I assume ABS Motor) 40amp square fuse was blown. I removed and as soon as I inserted another one it blew even with the key off.

Any ideas as to what the issue is, obviously a short somewhere but any pointers on where to start testing would be appreciated.

I have no real knowledge of what this could really but if I had to guess, I am in group that thinks the ABS Motor arced and welded internally. On a more "people reading" level, I would be willing to bet that the prior owner has some idea of what the problem is. Was the car for sale prior to the jumper cable mishap? If it was then it might not be bad but if he put it up for sale afterwards, I am betting it is an expensive fix or at least that was what he was told by whomever he had look at it. It could be something simple or cheap but the ABS systems are not usually cheap fixes. Just sayin'

 

[oleblue]

Well guys I bought a new ABS control module complete bolt on assembly off ebay used. Came in last night, so I installed it and it fixed it as far as I can tell. Put the fuse in and it didn't blow. Made a buzzing sound when I first turned it on but it works fine. All of the lights went out with the exception of the maint light which I searched the forum and ended up clearing it out also. What's funny is the brakes feel fine and I didn't even bleed them. Seems to stop fine but makes a slight buzz when I press the brakes. I assume this is normal?

The TPMS light seems to be stuck on but I'm gonna do the trick I saw on here to disable it tonight.