CS-144 alternator source?

Tiktiki

New member
Well, my alt just crapped on me.

Now I have found an old '96 runner at a junkyard, but it's the 4-cyl engine and I don't remember if the alt was still there.

Sooo

Anyone has a list of Chevys that use the CS144?
I assume I could yank it out of any truck/car that had that specific alternator.

The local parts shop are clueless unless I give them the exact part number or make/model it's supposed to fit in.

And I would rather pay 40$ CanuckBucks than 300, since the used part even comes with a warranty (and my 4R is on it's last leg, just has to go through the winter)
 
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id imagine you could type the model car in auto zone or something and they would tell you if it needs a cs-144 or not. I think it mostly came on luxury cars that used lots of power.
 
id imagine you could type the model car in auto zone or something and they would tell you if it needs a cs-144 or not. I think it mostly came on luxury cars that used lots of power.

Exactly. I can't go to the local junkyards, check all models of Chevys they have on the lot then spend 5 hours checking if it uses a CS-144 alternator...

I want the other way around, so I can look for specific models in the yard's inventory instead.
 
1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Alt.

W1232 is the adapter that plugs into the GM alt and the Toyota plug plugs into the back.

DBElectricial #8112-5 140a is the alt new.


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I used one made for a 1995 Cadillac DeVille. There's a bunch of mid-90's Cadillacs that have them, I can't find a complete list though.
 
If you have the 4cyl, I’m not sure you can use the CS144 without some fab work.


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Well, I had to get this working today, so I got a "stock" alternator off a 99 Taco.

The engine had a blown head gasket, oil everything including inside the alt (a lot!)

Turns out after a good clean it was shorting out one of the coils.
The alternators in our trucks are really easy to maintain!

Remove the 10mm nut on the battery stud.
Remove 3x 8mm nuts to remove the whole back cover.
Remove 2 phillips screw to pull the brushed off.
Remove 4 screws to unhook the coils, and 2 more to remove the diode/capacitor pack.

If you want, 4x 8mm nuts and press the casing apart (the bearing is a ***** to pull, you really want a puller for that).

Took both alt. down to the casing. My old one had fried diode/rectifier board.
It's a thick copper plate with I assume a bunch of diodes and capacitors hooked-up. That assembly is coated with grey epoxy paint.
My old one cooked so bad that there was no paint left (it all fell to dust when touched), most of the diodes/capacitors where melted and the exposed copper turned dark purple.

Replaced that section from the "new" alt and voilà!
14.3v at the battery when running!

Also replace the Alt-fusebox cable with 4ga. If you where wondering, it fits without cutting any fusebox plastic.
Added ground-body cable (8ga) and replaced the ring terminal on the stock engine ground.
Also, the 3-pin connector at the alternator is directly routed to the grey connector under the fusebox (there are 4 pins, the black/white is a ground).
Replaced both battery lugs with brass marine-type.

Better than ever, and it literally took 3 hours from pulling my old alt/getting the used one off the truck at the junkyard/undoing the power harness/replacing the cables/rebuilding the alt.

You will want some 3/8, 3/4 and 1" wire loom if you undo the harness. The old one probably will break
 

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